D-Size Tele Body Blueprint Files HERE

guitarbuilder

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They are suggesting you countersink the holes on the back. That is what the csk is an abbreviation for. I have never done it on scores of bodies I've made. The neck plate holes have the countersink on it. I will sometimes clean up any splinters from drilling with a hobby knife.

The other part of that is that you do drill 4 holes through into scrap wood to minimize split out. Most here use a drill bit one size larger than the screws they are using so that the screws just drop through.

This is the screw I usually use.


Neck plate screws (4 pcs.), phillips head, #8 x 1-3/4" which has a .164" diameter.

Stewmac recommends a 3/16 hole in the body, I will usually do a 9/64 or 5/32" hole myself.
 
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moosie

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That says 82 degree countersink on the reverse side. If you remove the neck plate of any Fender, you'll see the countersunk holes.

So, it's drilled straight, no angle. And any countersink angle will do. The sink just eliminates any raised wood around the perimeter of the hole not allowing the plate to seat flush against the body.

And yes, a standard Fender Tele neck will fit this pocket. It takes practice to get a perfectly snug fit. I've only built two – both from from this schematic – and am still working on a repeatable process to getting a perfect fit. There are many here who can advise - perhaps best to start a new thread in this subforum.

EDIT: I didn't see @guitarbuilder's post when writing this, for some reason. He's got you covered.
 

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Hi guys, sooooo, I think I may have another question... what kind of Fender custom shop pickups should I use. I am new to this so any answer will help me. :) Thank you
 

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@guitarbuilder & @robt57 - Well, I am finally starting to assemble the TeleBaum, and using Fender bridge plate with a GuitarMadness tele Al5 pickup, and I spent a good 45 minute with hammer and chisel to get the pickup to fit to route. I had routed the cavity using a template from Robt57 that I copied, and he's built many teles. I know at one point many years ago there was a changed angle to that route, so maybe I got the old incorrect design on my template.
 

guitarbuilder

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@guitarbuilder & @robt57 - Well, I am finally starting to assemble the TeleBaum, and using Fender bridge plate with a GuitarMadness tele Al5 pickup, and I spent a good 45 minute with hammer and chisel to get the pickup to fit to route. I had routed the cavity using a template from Robt57 that I copied, and he's built many teles. I know at one point many years ago there was a changed angle to that route, so maybe I got the old incorrect design on my template.


go back to post 585 that Dsutton posted and compare that to what you have. I think the German site has the earlier version.
 

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Anyone have Terry's cad files? I'd like to convert it rather than having to re-draw the entire thing so I can build jigs.
 

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goodchicken

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Maybe I'm missing something, but after checking around on the web I'm seeing width sizes that are 12.75" and others that are 12.5". Is there actually a "correct size" there? Or is it something that's maybe dependent on year or some varying versions?
 

guitarbuilder

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Maybe I'm missing something, but after checking around on the web I'm seeing width sizes that are 12.75" and others that are 12.5". Is there actually a "correct size" there? Or is it something that's maybe dependent on year or some varying versions?

The correct size is the one in post 585 in this thread. All these bodies are sanded by humans during the processing too, so they will vary. Tdowns is the one that is very accurate, but none of the bodies should be the same. The drawing exception would be if the Fender drawing in the Ducchossoir Telecaster book was scanned and printed again.
 

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The correct size is the one in post 585 in this thread. All these bodies are sanded by humans during the processing too, so they will vary. Tdowns is the one that is very accurate, but none of the bodies should be the same. The drawing exception would be if the Fender drawing in the Ducchossoir Telecaster book was scanned and printed again.

Maybe I'm overthinking, or maybe tolerances are thrown off by the hand sanding, but the neck pocket width in that picture shows 2.224", instead of the 2.1875" (2-3/16") I've heard.

A little over .035" difference seems a bit much to me, but maybe the looseness of bolt on necks is potentially more than I realized? Wish I still had my Mex Tele, but I only have a cheapo Squire Tele atm, but it does measure right at that 2-3/16". Huh.
 

guitarbuilder

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Maybe I'm overthinking, or maybe tolerances are thrown off by the hand sanding, but the neck pocket width in that picture shows 2.224", instead of the 2.1875" (2-3/16") I've heard.

A little over .035" difference seems a bit much to me, but maybe the looseness of bolt on necks is potentially more than I realized? Wish I still had my Mex Tele, but I only have a cheapo Squire Tele atm, but it does measure right at that 2-3/16". Huh.
The neck cavity is made larger than the neck heel so it fits in with the tolerances assigned at the factory. If you look at the actual Fender drawings, the tolerances are something like +/- 1/32" on fractions and almost 1/64 on 2 digit decimals. As far as I know, Squiers would be in metric units, but I could be wrong. You don't want a snug fit. That's for mortise and tenon joints. You want wiggle room to align strings to the edge of the neck and to allow for paint. Fender paint is laid on pretty thick these days from what I see. This is an older drawing but you can see the tolerances listed. Hand sanding after the part is made takes off material. I'd get as close as I could to 2-3/16 at the neck, and 2-7/32 in the neck cavity...but that's me. Also remember the wood moves depending on your seasonal variations, shrinking in winter and expanding in humid summerlike conditions, depending on your environmental controls.

fender drawing.jpg
 
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headly21

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Well now isn't the word "blueprint" is outdated!!! I recently used a CAD program to help someone calculate the area and volume of a Tele body from an outline I received. I decided I must continue and make an entire dimensioned drawing of the Tele body, similar to the one in the Tele bible. That old print is tiny and very hard to read. I made a PDF file that is D-sized (34" x 22"). I'm thinking about printing one out D-sized and using it as a wall hanging.

[NOTE: These files current as of December 4, 2010 -- and are the most current versions]

Tele Body Drawing - Rev E (PDF)

Tele Body Drawing - Rev E (AutoCAD v14 DWG)

I put a note on the drawing as a disclaimer of its accuracy. I'm not sure how accurate the overall drawing is. The control cavity is about 15.4 mils off from the original, which may be an improvement, I don't know.

If you find a dimension missing, let me know. I'm not good at checking my own work. Proof readers are welcome.

Download the Adobe Acrobat Reader if you don't have it.

I will be drilling body holes for the neck and neck plate. I'm not clear about the required size of the drill bit(s) because the drawing specifies the following:

#19 (0.166") diameter
82 degrees countersink
5/16 diameter farside

My confusion is about the #19 diameter vs.5/16 diameter "farside." I know that the standard 82° countersink is for the far-side (back of the body), but why are there seemingly two different diameter drill-bit sizes, #19 for the pocket side, and 5/16 for the plate side?
 

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Holes for the neck plate should be a hair larger than the diameter of your neck screws. They should drop through without creating threads in the wood. I've never countersunk one body I've made. I just clear the chips out with a hobby knife if I think it will interfere. I've also never used a number drill for those holes. Just one size larger in my drill index than the screws and in some cases I made the hole the same diameter as the screws.

From the stewmac website:



Neck Attachment Screw​

1-3/4" (44.45mm) long screws for bolt-on neck electric guitars.

Drill a 1/8" (3.00mm) diameter hole in the neck and a 3/16" (5mm) clearance hole in the body.

These screws can also be used for attaching a tremolo spring mounting claw.


From allparts: They are #8 screws.




 
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headly21

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Holes for the neck plate should be a hair larger than the diameter of your neck screws. They should drop through without creating threads in the wood. I've never countersunk one body I've made. I just clear the chips out with a hobby knife if I think it will interfere. I've also never used a number drill for those holes. Just one size larger in my drill index than the screws and in some cases I made the hole the same diameter as the screws.

From the stewmac website:



Neck Attachment Screw​

1-3/4" (44.45mm) long screws for bolt-on neck electric guitars.

Drill a 1/8" (3.00mm) diameter hole in the neck and a 3/16" (5mm) clearance hole in the body.

These screws can also be used for attaching a tremolo spring mounting claw.


From allparts: They are #8 screws.





Thank you! That's exactly what I suspected. I have the correct screws, and the neck is pre-drilled. (This scenario presents its own challenges with ensuring the body holes line up correctly.)
I also had my 3/16 bit at the ready, but I needed validation before I screwed something up (pun intended).
I also don't think that countersinking in the body is at all necessary when the plate is already countersunk between the screw head and the body.
 

moosie

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I also don't think that countersinking in the body is at all necessary when the plate is already countersunk between the screw head and the body.
The countersink in the plate is to flush the screw head, of course.

The countersink in the joining faces is there to eliminate any raised fibers that would impede seating. This is pretty typical in hardwood construction such as fine furniture, where many species have little to no compressability, unlike softwoods. The dimension of this sink is small, "just a wee bit". But that would look weird as a CAD callout.

In the case of a single guitar build, if it's easier to clean the rims of the holes with a box knife, or to simply to inspect that there's nothing in the way, that works too!
 

headly21

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The countersink in the plate is to flush the screw head, of course.

The countersink in the joining faces is there to eliminate any raised fibers that would impede seating. This is pretty typical in hardwood construction such as fine furniture, where many species have little to no compressability, unlike softwoods. The dimension of this sink is small, "just a wee bit". But that would look weird as a CAD callout.

In the case of a single guitar build, if it's easier to clean the rims of the holes with a box knife, or to simply to inspect that there's nothing in the way, that works too!

Awesome! That's good to know about this drawing. That might be something to consider for the next revision's notes.

I do have a countersink bit that I can use just to give each hole a slight depression around it. Thanks for the clarification, moosie!
 




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