Custom shop thinline with neck dive issues

Killing Floor

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Without modifying your guitar I have a couple thoughts. Fender brand strap locks effectively move the strap about 2cm away from the body. That may be enough. That is exactly how I solved neck dive with my rosewood neck. I also prefer suede back straps, they help too.
 

Telenator

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Drill a large hole where the bottom strap button is attached. The drill will poke through into that dumb cavity Fender and others route into the body behind the bridge.

Mix up a batch of slow setting epoxy and pour it into the hole, filling up that dumb cavity. Install a maple dowel to fill the hole you drilled into that dumb cavity, and re-install the strap button.

In my experience, Thinlines are the most difficult Teles to get a good sound from mostly due to that stupid cavity right behind the bridge.

If you're still having trouble, you can pour some epoxy into the f-hole with the guitar standing up, so it settles at the bottom where you won't see it. Just be sure to use a high quality non-shrink epoxy.
 

fenderchamp

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just play it a lot, and soon your muscle memory will simply adapt. unless you spend a lot of time with your guitar around your neck and your hands otherwise occupied, what does it matter?
 

Chicken Curry

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Just for something different:
mbrace-short-stand-2.jpg
 

Danola03

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Okay I know this thread is older now, but I think I have your solution.
Possibly take a small cloth pouch, similar to the ones that some pedals come in, cut a small hole and attach it to the bottom strap button before your strap. Fill that pouch with half a roll (roll so they don’t Jingle) of quarters to start, adjust to balance. added bonus, you’ll always have a little cash on you.
You could also get fancy and have a small pouch sewn to the end of an old strap, or to a strap dedicated to this one guitar.
Or you could get super fancy and once you find out the correct weight, have lead weights sewn into the fabric near that end of the strap.
Hope this idea helps you or somebody
 

brunogio

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I have a 70's thin line RI and don't have the problem maybe because I have the WRHBs in mine. But I have found the cheapest solution is to use a strap that has a suede back. The suede seems to keep the guitar from moving.

If you use a woven strap with a smooth back it will more likely move around and dive. The biggest benefit is that you don't have to mod the guitar at all
 

Winky

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1) Lighten the headstock by some nice routing on the back in non-structural areas, and/or lighter tuners
2) Add weight to your strap. Adding it to the strap is reversible but just fixes the symptom, not the cause.
3) I actually like the idea of drilling out the strap button thread and adding weight there. Drill a decent sized hole (3/4"?)and epoxy in a neat circular steel weight, maybe 2" long, tapped for the button screw (Use a SS machine screw with loctite for your strap button). Use a nice chromed washer under your strap button to cover the end of the steel cylinder. A machine shop will make you a custom tapped steel cylinder for next-to-nothing.

Filling the cavity through there with epoxy as suggested above also appeals to me. I'm assuming that the cavity is not connected to the main body cavity? Be careful to use low-setting-temperature epoxy. You don't want to cook your guitar.

Grippy straps are just playing with the symptoms and fixing nothing.
 

JL_LI

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Drop a few fishing sinkers through the f hole. :lol: I’m not being serious but I still meant it.;) Or do what I do. Get a good chair.😁
 

viking

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I think a set of Sperzels can make a difference , if you staqrt out with real heavy tuners. The lightest ones are Gotoh Stealths , they look weird , and cost money , but....72 grams per set. Compared to a set of locking grovers or similar you could remove half a pound from the headstock. If you want to add weight at the other end , you can install a heavier bridge. Big difference between a light vintage bridge and a 6 saddle Gotoh style one.
 




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