Current production guitars with fat/chunky necks?

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teletimetx

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I keep telling myself I'm going to measure the necks of my guitars, but I guess I just don't care enough. It's a personal choice of course, and we all like what we like.

@Yonatan: there are no specific technical advantages to thickness, per se, only personal preferences. For some people with large hands, a thicker neck might seem natural - but as it turns out, there are too many factors and some small-handed people like thick necks and some large bear paw folks like skinny necks. Some people get muscle cramps or other pains from using a neck that they don't like - both on the skinny side and the fat side. If you are making that neck for yourself, you might try some models with thicker necks and see if you have a preference. Then again, some players have no preference either way.

In terms of keeping on the same page, I use these words:
"wide" to be the width of the fretboard, parallel to the frets, usually measured at the nut.
"thick" or "fat", the measurement from top of fretboard to back of neck, maximum amount. I tend to use thick rather than fat, but that's just me.

"profile" would be the general shape of the neck, in cross section and that's why we end up with C or D or U or V.
C being the skinniest/thinnest, D a little bit thicker and U or V the thickest. The U style having some part of the shoulders parallel or close to parallel - as in what a U looks like. V as in what the letter looks like but not necessarily a sharp point, sometimes referred to as rounded V or soft V. I used to encounter V necks in some of the 20's and 30's parlor style acoustics.

Some none-specific terms are also used: "boatneck" which I think most use to describe a V as in how the bow of the boat is shaped to slice through water, I guess. "Baseball bat", as in thick and round - not the handle of the bat, but the meaty part you use to hit homeruns or foul balls, or that devastating whiff at that stupid submarine slinging upside down curve ball.

So for current production or close to current, this is what I've encountered for thicker necks, again I don't have measurements

On the Fender side, the Baja (50's) and the James Burton Std MIM both have thicker/fatter necks. the Baja 50's I had was thick, easily over .9 but never measured.
I have still have the JB Std MIM and it's approaching .9, but with a very nice U shape. I like it, if only because I don't even think about it when playing - but it does feel good. Neither of these are humbucker guitars, but it's not unheard of for folks to drop in a humucker in the neck position and there are tele-bridge size humbuckers available.

On the Gibson/Epi side: Any of the LP versions that claim to be modelled on the 50's era, seem to be thicker and baseball bat round. I've got the "50's Tribute LP Studio" and it's not skinny. Picture in side view below. My version has P90's but it also comes in double humbucker.

Some of the bolt-on, very inexpensive, but well made Epi LP Jrs. actually have something resembling the 50's style thicker LP neck.

Here's that 50's/Tribute/Studio neck. I don't know if it's current as in 2021, but I think I've seen models for almost every year in the 2010's and a few 2020's.

neck profile.jpg
 

Lawdawg

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What are the advantages of a thicker neck? I've never had one, but I'm slowly sanding down the back of the neck I've been building. It's currently holding at .94 and .99, and while I had originally planned on a thinner profile, seeing this thread, maybe I'll leave this one on the thicker side.

View attachment 836791

There's no advantage to a thicker neck per se, it's purely an issue of playing preferences and comfort. Although my hands are average sized at most, I find that I have less hand fatigue and cramping when playing a thicker neck guitar.
 

Wyzsard

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Based on my happiness with my 2018 Epi SG ( last year) I could be happy with this one too, maybe?

* 2020 model Epi LP Special P-90
View attachment 836710
Just got a deal on a used one a few days ago..
0320211959~2.jpg


Makes my MIM Standard Strat neck feel like I'm grabbing a walking cane. Epi has other models with chunky necks as well.
 

11 Gauge

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You might consider what I did. Twenty+ years ago, I bought a Korean made Fender Squier Telecaster at a guitar show for $100. I spent the next fifteen or so years modifying it repeatedly.....different pickups, bridges, etc.....including necks. After a long time experimenting, I settled on my "ideal" set-up. I then made a second partscaster using these criteria. (my original was too heavy at 8 lbs.)
My neck preference (which went on both Tele-styles) is a Warmoth Fatback (1" depth from nut to heel) with a 1 11/16" wide nut, conversion scale (24 3/4" "Gibson" scale) with a Fender-licensed Tele headstock. I used Wilkinson tuners and bridge, Bootstrap pickups, and lightweight Paulownia body from Guitar Fetish. (finished with Tru Oil) Not counting my labor, my total cost was "probably" under $500.....and I got EXACTLY what I wanted. I believe you would like the Warmoth neck.....which could be put on ANY Fender-spec'd body.

Believe me, I've been doing something similar, for over 3 decades now. And I love some of my partscasters, but I'm really looking for stuff that's now off the shelf, current production, if possible.

I've got two paulownia Tele bodies from GFS, with one being modded so much that I'm tired of patching the body up. I got a second one last year that I put a Reverend Buckshot neck on, but the locking tuners result in some neck dive, since the body is so light.

Anyway, with aftermarket bodies, I'm honestly just tired of having to drill holes for bridges and pickup mounting rings (in the case of humbuckers), and getting everything to line up nicely, and not boogering anything up in the process.

About a month ago, I got tired of the thin modern C neck on my Deluxe Nashville Tele, and swapped it for a MIM 50's that I had on a GFS poplar body. That's pretty much a match made in heaven, and is a nice variation on the theme of my actual MIM 50's Tele.

...All of that said, I now want something in a H/H configuration - just standard PAF dimensions, so I can experiment with readily-available pickups. I'm not against Gibson/PRS/etc. per se, other than possibly not wanting set neck or something much heavier than 8 lbs, but have a feeling that current production offerings are limited, or possibly on the expensive end.

I'll probably end up getting one of the three following guitars, and then replacing the neck with something that's actually necessarily fat:
  • G&L Tribute ASAT Deluxe Carved Top
  • Squier Contemporary Telecaster HH
  • Fender Player Telecaster HH
 

Chiogtr4x

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Just got a deal on a used one a few days ago..
View attachment 836807

Makes my MIM Standard Strat neck feel like I'm grabbing a walking cane. Epi has other models with chunky necks as well.

I really love that Fender c-shape neck that that's on the standard series I've got both a Stratocaster and a Telecaster with that neck

but I know I'd also like the comfort and the fullness of the fat neck because it's still a C shape I'd probably love this Epiphone
It's the thin oval D profile neck that I don't care for
My Epiphone SG it kind of has that neck but it's not as bad as others I felt it's fine
Sorry for the voice activation
 

Electric Warrior

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You have a fairly large range of options and you will hear them all.

Something to consider is that two necks of similar depths might feel very different depending on the carve. I have a .90-1.00 neck on an R8, and while some would consider that "big," it doesn't feel that way to me. Whereas I've played a few guitars of similar depth that felt cartoonishly large. I think a lot comes down to that taper.
 

11 Gauge

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After 41 years of shopping playing modding building butchering and refining, I gave up on Fender & Gibson for "just right" necks.
I also need huge frets with my big necks, and generally prefer flatter than 7.25.

The funny thing is I kind of got in this mess the opposite way around, so to speak. Back in '88, I got a chiseled-up Strat body with no neck. The only thing I could really get at the time was what I think Fender was calling their 57 RI neck. So I actually preferred the tiny frets and 7.25" radius, for many years...

....But that RI neck wasn't particularly deep or fat, IIRC (I traded it for something else in the mid-90's). It was only in the years that followed that I discovered that I'm pretty flexible with fretwire, and radii up to ~12" is fine.

It's when I got the Tele currently in my avatar - just a 50's MIM Tele - that I realized what actually allows me to play the longest, with the least amount of fatigue.
 

11 Gauge

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You have a fairly large range of options and you will hear them all.

Something to consider is that two necks of similar depths might feel very different depending on the carve. I have a .90-1.00 neck on an R8, and while some would consider that "big," it doesn't feel that way to me. Whereas I've played a few guitars of similar depth that felt cartoonishly large. I think a lot comes down to that taper.

I agree. I think the 'V' profile necks tend to not feel so big, even if they are deep, because they don't have as much shoulder as a 'C' or definitely 'U' profile would have.
 

nojazzhere

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I keep telling myself I'm going to measure the necks of my guitars, but I guess I just don't care enough. It's a personal choice of course, and we all like what we like.

@Yonatan: there are no specific technical advantages to thickness, per se, only personal preferences. For some people with large hands, a thicker neck might seem natural - but as it turns out, there are too many factors and some small-handed people like thick necks and some large bear paw folks like skinny necks. Some people get muscle cramps or other pains from using a neck that they don't like - both on the skinny side and the fat side. If you are making that neck for yourself, you might try some models with thicker necks and see if you have a preference. Then again, some players have no preference either way.

In terms of keeping on the same page, I use these words:
"wide" to be the width of the fretboard, parallel to the frets, usually measured at the nut.
"thick" or "fat", the measurement from top of fretboard to back of neck, maximum amount. I tend to use thick rather than fat, but that's just me.

"profile" would be the general shape of the neck, in cross section and that's why we end up with C or D or U or V.
C being the skinniest/thinnest, D a little bit thicker and U or V the thickest. The U style having some part of the shoulders parallel or close to parallel - as in what a U looks like. V as in what the letter looks like but not necessarily a sharp point, sometimes referred to as rounded V or soft V. I used to encounter V necks in some of the 20's and 30's parlor style acoustics.

Some none-specific terms are also used: "boatneck" which I think most use to describe a V as in how the bow of the boat is shaped to slice through water, I guess. "Baseball bat", as in thick and round - not the handle of the bat, but the meaty part you use to hit homeruns or foul balls, or that devastating whiff at that stupid submarine slinging upside down curve ball.

So for current production or close to current, this is what I've encountered for thicker necks, again I don't have measurements

On the Fender side, the Baja (50's) and the James Burton Std MIM both have thicker/fatter necks. the Baja 50's I had was thick, easily over .9 but never measured.
I have still have the JB Std MIM and it's approaching .9, but with a very nice U shape. I like it, if only because I don't even think about it when playing - but it does feel good. Neither of these are humbucker guitars, but it's not unheard of for folks to drop in a humucker in the neck position and there are tele-bridge size humbuckers available.

On the Gibson/Epi side: Any of the LP versions that claim to be modelled on the 50's era, seem to be thicker and baseball bat round. I've got the "50's Tribute LP Studio" and it's not skinny. Picture in side view below. My version has P90's but it also comes in double humbucker.

Some of the bolt-on, very inexpensive, but well made Epi LP Jrs. actually have something resembling the 50's style thicker LP neck.

Here's that 50's/Tribute/Studio neck. I don't know if it's current as in 2021, but I think I've seen models for almost every year in the 2010's and a few 2020's.

View attachment 836804
I agree with your terminology, although I tend to use "depth" where you use "thick". Another variable we haven't discussed is "taper", which I think of as how the depth or thickness increases from nut to heel. My Warmoth does not "taper", but maintains the same depth along the full length of the neck.
I'm one who has relatively small hands, but wants the chunkiest neck possible. It took decades of gigging for me to recognize it, (yeah, I can be pretty dim) but the fat necks were less "taxing" on my left hand, especially on longer gigs. I've known a couple of guitarists who were indifferent to a big neck, but I've gotten them to play mine for a night, and they became "woke".......maybe this is my "mission"? ;)
 

Sabotron

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I think the James Tyler Standard ‘59 is one of the best necks out there. Not thin, but not huge. Smooth satin finish with deep rolled fret edges. If you can get past the headstock, they make some of the best guitars available currently.
 

MarkWW

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The imported Gretsch models are chunky and delightful!
They are "all" imported and the necks vary quite a bit. Streamliner-Electromatic or Pro Series. I find the chunkiest necks to be in the Streamliner series. They are called thin U but they feel way chunkier than most modern day guitars. The have a nut width of 1-11/16" and a depth at first fret of .97. Not as thick (depth) as I would [refer but playable for me none the less. I can not play a 1-5/8" nut width for very long without cramping and every Epi I have tried causes me to cramp up.
 

11 Gauge

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They are "all" imported and the necks vary quite a bit. Streamliner-Electromatic or Pro Series. I find the chunkiest necks to be in the Streamliner series. They are called thin U but they feel way chunkier than most modern day guitars. The have a nut width of 1-11/16" and a depth at first fret of .97. Not as thick (depth) as I would [refer but playable for me none the less. I can not play a 1-5/8" nut width for very long without cramping and every Epi I have tried causes me to cramp up.

Interesting. I've been eyeing up the Gretsch G2210 Streamliner Junior Jet Club - https://www.sweetwater.com/store/de...-junior-jet-club-gunmetal?serial=ISG201101783.

...It's the 'thin u' neck profile description that's kind of scaring me off. Other than that, the guitar pretty much ticks all the right boxes for what I want, including not weighing a ton, and having a bolt-on neck, which I actually prefer. PAF dimension pickups, a wraparound bridge, and simple Tele-like controls.

The price looks hard to beat, too.
 

cousinpaul

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You might look for a loaded body if you're going to swap out the neck anyway. My current tele started out as a loaded Road Worn Player body. I found a chunky Allparts neck locally and was up and running fairly cheaply.

This is my third Allparts neck and I continue to be impressed with them. Great bang for the buck and a nice tight fit in a Fender pocket. You might visit the Stratosphere and check out some options. They had some pretty good deals on Allparts last time I looked.
 

11 Gauge

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You might look for a loaded body if you're going to swap out the neck anyway. My current tele started out as a loaded Road Worn Player body. I found a chunky Allparts neck locally and was up and running fairly cheaply.

This is my third Allparts neck and I continue to be impressed with them. Great bang for the buck and a nice tight fit in a Fender pocket. You might visit the Stratosphere and check out some options. They had some pretty good deals on Allparts last time I looked.

Yeah, I saw one loaded Squier Contemporary Tele HH body on Stratosphere about six months ago, but didn't jump at it, because it wasn't much cheaper than the complete guitar.

I also saw a Player Tele HH body on Stratosphere about a month ago, but it was actually not completely loaded. I didn't want to assume that the bridge pickup mounting ring and pickguard (which weren't included) would properly fit. I think that particular body really only had the neck plate & screws, and maybe the bridge. IDK why Stratosphere strips down some of those bodies more than others, but it's kind of aggravating.

Another more minor gripe I have is that it seems like a lot of those Tele bodies seem to be on the heavy side, like at least a good half a pound heavier than I might want. At least Stratosphere lists the weight, so it's not a surprise that happens after purchase and delivery.
 

Ed Driscoll

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I keep telling myself I'm going to measure the necks of my guitars, but I guess I just don't care enough. It's a personal choice of course, and we all like what we like.

On the Gibson/Epi side: Any of the LP versions that claim to be modelled on the 50's era, seem to be thicker and baseball bat round.

My 2000 R9 doesn't have a baseball-bat thick neck, but I played a Les Paul Forum member's R8 reissue that did -- and it was surprisingly comfortable to play. I believe the RO (1960 reissue) Les Pauls have the slim-taper neck.
 

telemnemonics

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Yeah, I saw one loaded Squier Contemporary Tele HH body on Stratosphere about six months ago, but didn't jump at it, because it wasn't much cheaper than the complete guitar.

I also saw a Player Tele HH body on Stratosphere about a month ago, but it was actually not completely loaded. I didn't want to assume that the bridge pickup mounting ring and pickguard (which weren't included) would properly fit. I think that particular body really only had the neck plate & screws, and maybe the bridge. IDK why Stratosphere strips down some of those bodies more than others, but it's kind of aggravating.

Another more minor gripe I have is that it seems like a lot of those Tele bodies seem to be on the heavy side, like at least a good half a pound heavier than I might want. At least Stratosphere lists the weight, so it's not a surprise that happens after purchase and delivery.

Some of the stripped guitars thinking makes little or no sense to me, like they had some Gibby LP Jr husks where they removed four parts from a five part guitar.
Why take the tiny guard off a guitar that is the only place that guard goes?
But we the market seem to keep buying take offs so they may be smarter than I or we think!
I buy parts from them now and then but they sure do crank up the value on some stuff.
As far as buying Squier bodies, IMO anyone who can drill a hole in a spot they marked with a pencil will do better buying other than Squier bodies.
Unless a glossy solid color finish is desired, but even then I don't find much use for much of anything Squier, in the broader market including auction selling prices. Trends come and go though, prices go up and down and deals may not come up at the right times.

I was very tempted by a Squier Contemporary Tele neck on Stratosphere because of the jumbo frets and sorta straight stick of wood, but the finishing quality is near shipping pallet and the price is up there with better grade parts.
 

teletimetx

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My 2000 R9 doesn't have a baseball-bat thick neck, but I played a Les Paul Forum member's R8 reissue that did -- and it was surprisingly comfortable to play. I believe the RO (1960 reissue) Les Pauls have the slim-taper neck.

Thanks for the info! I'm not really too familiar with the R/8/9/0 reissues; it just seems like what Gibson refers to as 50's era will be somewhat thicker/fatter than what they refer to as 60's era.

Interesting that even in the CNC era of guitar production, neck dimensions still vary, even amongst similar models - or maybe it's the perceptions of humans...

I played guitar for almost 40 years without discussing neck dimensions with anybody. Wasn't until I joined this forum that I discovered how many different needs there are regarding neck dimensions. Not discounting it, just wasn't exactly my experience. It is interesting though, just like every other detail about guitars - it's all fascinating! :)
 
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