Curly walnut/sitka spruce SJ acoustic build:

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Telemaestro, Nov 15, 2014.

  1. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

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    There seems to be some interest in acoustic guitar building on this forum, so I thought I would post some pics of the build on which I am currently working. This build is a small jumbo body style, with a florentine cutaway, curly walnut back and sides, Sitka spruce top, Spanish cedar, walnut, and maple five-piece neck, and a multi-scale ebony fretboard.

    Cheers!


    -Austin
     

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  2. jamorudd

    jamorudd Tele-Afflicted

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    That walnut is some purdy stuff!
     
  3. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

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    Yeah! I got a steal on a few boards, enough for 6 back and side sets, and this is the first one I'm making from it.

    -Austin
     
  4. KWhatley

    KWhatley Tele-Holic

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    Very Nice :) Certainly peeked my interest.

    Are you adjusting the bracing at all to compensate for the multiscale tension differences from bass to treble?

    I've not looked into reverse kerfing yet, is there much of a difference?

    Do you think it may end up slightly neck heavy with the amount of wood in the cutaway block? I've seen them done with just a wedge in the lower horn only previously.

    Nice Rose, did you cut it yourself?

    Sorry for all the questions, as you can probably tell its something I'm very interested in.
     
  5. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

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    No, my bracing remains virtually unchanged. The way I see it, you have two options, design an internal bracing pattern that compensates, or design your bridge (the only exterior brace) to compensate, and I have done the latter.

    I prefer reversed kerfed lining to traditional for the fact that it allows for cleaner mortises when the linings are notched to accept the termination of the braces. Although, this will probably be the last instrument that I build with the linings kerfed at all. I plan to switch to laminated solid linings for the sake of a cleaner look.

    I did cut this one myself, however I cut this particular one on the CNC. In the past I have done all of my rosettes by hand, 40-50 hours worth of work. After the time cleaning up the .pdf that my artist friend sent to me, the program on the machine was about two hours. Here are a couple examples of ones that I have hand-carved in the past.

    No, not really at all. The Spanish cedar making up the neck block/cutaway extension is very light, the body otherwise is extremely light, and that added weight will definitely contribute to a very balanced guitar.

    Cheers!

    -Austin
     
  6. Flynztone

    Flynztone Tele-Holic

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    Very nice and KWhatley asked the same questions I was going to ask. Do you plan on thinning out that neck block in the part of the Florentine cutaway at all? Just curious as that's the largest one I have ever seen. Did you use a shooting board to edge joint the top wood, sides and back wood? If so, what size hand plane did you use to do so? I figure using a shooting board to edge joint that my #4 smoother is plenty long enough but wouldn't want to edge joint say a t style glue up with something that short. Keep the pics coming on your progress as this has my interest totally! One other thing, what did you use to thickness the top, back, sides etc. A hand plane or a drum sander? If using a hand plane to thickness did you use a toothing blade/iron? If so, would one camber the toothing iron on a smoother to do so or leave it straight and flat? Sorry for all the questions but acoustic guitar building is what interests me the most and I have yet to start one but it's slated for the very near future hopefully
     
  7. oldrebel

    oldrebel Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

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    This is great, keep the pics coming!! The rose turned out fantastic.
     
  8. Redd Volkaert

    Redd Volkaert Tele-Holic

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    Oh Yeah!

    That's is going to be a beautiful guitar, I bet it'll sound great too.
    Fantastic work!
    Redd
     
  9. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

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    Forgot to attach the images!

    -Austin
     

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  10. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

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    No, that neck block is final dimensions. I use a shooting board with my no. 7 to edge joint the tops, backs, and the 'top side' of my sides. Though I have done it with my no. 4 1/2, just have to read/candle the join a few extra times to get a perfect seam. I've edge jointed quite a few T-style bodies with my no. 4 1/2 with perfect results, but usually reach for my no. 7. I thicknessed these particular sets on my drum sander, but it can easily be done with two smoothing planes, one with a toothed blade, and one straight. I keep all of my irons with a slight round on the corners, this helps very much to ensure a smooth, even surface on wide stock. No problem at all! I love questions; I ask a ton!

    Cheers!

    -Austin
     
  11. Glen Smith

    Glen Smith RIP

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    Wow, amazing work so far! What is the thickness of the sides?
     
  12. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

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    Sides are 0.075" and have not yet received the side braces.

    Cheers!

    -Austin
     
  13. mefgames

    mefgames Friend of Leo's Platinum Supporter

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    I really like the combination heel block/cutaway support.
    Mike
     
  14. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

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    Thanks! Here is the pic from when I laminated what would be the side material of the cutaway portion onto the neck block/cutaway extension.

    Cheers!

    -Austin
     

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  15. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

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    Got some more done today:

    Bridge plate shaped and glued.

    Second x-brace glued and shaped.

    Finger braces shaped and glued.

    Nice view out the shop window.

    Clamped the top onto the rim, and traced the perimeter of the inside of the kerfed lining to trim the braces.

    Used a small hand saw to trim the x-brace 3/16" past the perimeter line, so that the x-brace terminates inside the lining rather that butting up to it. Then pared away the excess.

    And boom! Top is glued to the rim assembly.

    Cheers!

    -Austin
     

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  16. otterhound

    otterhound Poster Extraordinaire

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    Two questions .
    Are you concerned about the extra weight created by the neck block design ?
    Have you tried the X braced lower bout before and won't it tend to make the top too stiff ?
    I am thinking that the lower X brace will seriously hamper the compliance of the top .
     
  17. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

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    Nope, not at all. The Spanish cedar adds very little weight compared to a normally sized block from mahogany,, and the soundbox is still very light. I have done a double x multiple times, and gotten very good results, and a tone that I far preferred to the guitars I have done with traditional tone bars. Other builders, such as Ervin Somogyi are huge proponents of a top with symmetrical bracing, such as a double, or triple x (also known as lattice bracing). In cases such as these, and such as my double x here, the rear x or x's, are built very lightly. My top has a long even tap tone, and right within my desired frequency range for a fundamental tone

    Cheers!

    -Austin
     
  18. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

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    Got the top flushed up to the sides today, and then got pulled away to work on a bunch of other projects...

    Cheers!

    -Austin
     

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  19. Nick JD

    Nick JD Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Awesome!

    Probably a silly question, but does the rosette come out? And if not, how do you access the inside?
     
  20. Telemaestro

    Telemaestro Tele-Meister

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    A side port in the bass side shoulder of the guitar. I will be showing how I cut and bind that soon.

    Cheers!

    -Austin
     
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