Covering up burn marks

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Huey666, Oct 5, 2021.

  1. tubedude

    tubedude Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    That would solve it alright, but Jesus that's ugly. If that much needed to be covered I'd paint it solid.
     
  2. Lone_Poor_Boy

    Lone_Poor_Boy Tele-Holic

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    EDIT: gotta go with the over-sanded comment
     
  3. Boreas

    Boreas Poster Extraordinaire

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    I would just put a Grateful Dead sticker over it. Peace signs also work well. Half my guitars sport stickers for one reason or another...


    20200622_100314.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2021
  4. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Doctor of Teleocity

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    I wouldn't sand it at all. That top probably has a paper thin layer of veneer, which you'd probably go right through and then have a real mess.
    I'd do the classic Gibson sunburst where the edges and horns are the darker color, leaving only a tear drop shaped amber center. The offending spot is actually in a very good place for this to work out well.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2021
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  5. dogmeat

    dogmeat Friend of Leo's

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    I hesitated to post but there is another possible solution. stain the rest of the top to match. or... do some local color staining to blend the problem areas with the rest of the top. heres a pic of a T type I built a while ago. the back was plain Baltic birch ply and needed a bump to cover defects and better match the build.

    P1110378.JPG

    extra colored lacquer and swirling brush strokes created a much more interesting back than plain ply (yeah, thats me in the picture). there is a TON of info on faking grain patters & such... it was a "thing" in the old days. heres the front & side of that guitar (which BTW is hollow and weighs 5 pounds... with a paper thin veneer for the top). I've done others too...

    P1110377.JPG P1110380.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2021
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  6. Huey666

    Huey666 Tele-Meister

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    OK, so that’s a very interesting point and is leading me to think that attempting to fix this is a bad move, and I should just finish the guitar in a colour dark enough to cover it up. Seems like the safest option. Thank you!

    Thanks for this also. I’ve just had another look at the guitar and yes, it’s possible there is a clear coat of poly still on there. I’m not really knowledgeable about this stuff so I’m not totally sure but the wood does look and feel ‘sealed’, even though it’s a natural colour and you can see the grain clearly etc. I guess this now leads to another question - can I put a nitro finish on top of a clear coat of poly, or will I have sand it all off first? (I’ll be getting it done professionally, by the way, won’t be attempting it myself!)
     
  7. Huey666

    Huey666 Tele-Meister

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    cheers for the suggestion! I probably won’t go this route as im personally not a huge fan of the quilted/figured kinda look but it’s a good idea!
     
  8. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    Here is a semi hollow with a semi transparent finish. You can still see the grain thru the finish but it hides a lot of flaws.

    IMG_3393.JPG
     
  9. Huey666

    Huey666 Tele-Meister

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    Thanks - that looks awesome. Is it a nitro finish or a poly?
     
  10. dogmeat

    dogmeat Friend of Leo's

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    sorry, I'm going to disagree, a semi transparent top coat will not hide those defects.... they will just look different. how do I know these things. in my last post I suggested some localize tinting & such to blend the damaged area so that it looks like a natural grain deviation. I didn't mean to imply it should look like quilted maple, it would need to be subtle to work. prolly several layers of clear with only a light tint. it would be tricky I think but its possible

    as for poly finishes on cheaper guitars..... they often use a stabilizer as a base to reinforce the softer wood they build with. it is some kind of resin that gets deep into the grain... the softer spots soak up more resin. then the poly color coats go on top. stripping the poly may or may not take off some of that base. if it does (and that may be what you see) then those areas will never take a stain evenly. even if you sand all the rest to the same level it won't stain right, so staining the wood is out. any colored clear coat will look the same as how the wood looks.... only colored. so, if you can sand it all to look even you can do a translucent finish, but I would start with a couple coats of clear first to fill the grain. I use lacquer, then tinted lacquer for the top coats (tints from StewMac), once its done I use an automotive clear on top for extra toughness (PPGs Deltron 2024).

    if you can't sand it all even, the you will have to go with and opaque color. I would test out sanding up in the horn area

    all that said... yours is a MIK and depending on how old it is, is probably a cut above the run of the mill aisan guitars. it may not have that binder layer and the plys may be thicker, giving you some sanding room

    in the last year and a half I've built 2 Teles, a Strat, a P-Bass, and highly modified a Ibenez short scale bass. refinished all. my last two builds were the basses, neither one had good enough wood for clear finishes
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2021
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  11. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    Nitro with a few drops of StewMac colortone dyes in the lacquer. Two coats of vinyl sealer, six of the color and 8 or 10 clear.
     
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  12. Huey666

    Huey666 Tele-Meister

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    thanks, that’s really useful to know!

    i’ve just been playing the guitar again tonight and yes, it does appear to have some kind of clear base coat still on it, definitely not just bare wood. The previous owner must have just stripped off the top colour coat.

    so I think I’ll go with a solid colour as you suggest to cover up the defects - do you by any chance know what my options would be re: nitro vs. poly? I’ve been reading that nitro lacquer won’t adhere to a poly base coat unless it’s heavily sanded, but I’m not sure now if I want to sand this thing.
     
  13. stratisfied

    stratisfied Tele-Afflicted

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    What shoots the “sanded through the veneer” theory down is that the grain of the veneer runs straight through and is not sanded away. Test the Fhole first before you try to refinish the whole thing.

    I could make that disappear in ten minutes with an airbrush.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2021
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  14. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

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    the solution is obvious
    Rattle_Bomb_Gold_Kit_Artwork_480x480.jpg
     
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  15. Timbresmith1

    Timbresmith1 Tele-Afflicted

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    “ Warm Beer Flake”. Obviously been to some TX honky-tonks...
     
  16. johnDH

    johnDH Tele-Meister

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    I reckon, if this one is a keeper, I'd suggest rather than try to remove the mark, cover it up but not with just a sticker, but with something classy and appealing that is meaningful to yourself, maybe in metal.

    Could be a symbol or logo of some kind, or initials etc.
     
  17. stratisfied

    stratisfied Tele-Afflicted

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    That was sanded to bare wood and a sealer applied. Could be a thin coat of satin lacquer as the prior owner was obviously copying John Lennon's Casino treatment.

    You can apply lacquer over poly without removing it. You only need to de-gloss it to bond and since there is no gloss it doesn't matter.

    Both of these are lacquer directly over de-glossed poly.

    IMG_2820.JPG

    IMG_2565 (2).JPG
     
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  18. fuman

    fuman TDPRI Member

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    What a cool guitar. You're wise to seek advice and not just charge off and try something.
     
  19. t-ray

    t-ray Tele-Afflicted Gold Supporter

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    This reminds me of an old Billy Joel song. IMHO, that guitar looks beautiful just the way it is. But this is not the advice you were asking for, so please accept my apologies.
     
  20. fasteddie42

    fasteddie42 Tele-Afflicted

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    I feel like you could easily make that look worse trying to make it look better.
     
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