Cornell Dupree Tele Wiring

RedPillBlues

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Putting this together after discovering a Josh smith video where he demonstrates the tones. It sounds super versatile. Using a three wire neck,TArmond middle and standard bridge. I’m thinking the only change I would make would be to use a 4 way switch to get a neck+bridge series position. Can’t find a single diagram online anywhere. Any ideas? I can’t really read schematics like an illustrated diagram.

It’s your 3 standard Tele positions in the video below. A secondary 3 position toggle adds the TArmond to whatever position your 3 way switch is in.

Combos with a 4 position switch are

TArmond toggle off

Neck
Neck+Bridge
Bridge
Neck+Bridge in series

With TArmond toggle in second position

Neck+Middle
Neck+Middle+Bridge
Middle+Bridge
Neck+Middle+Bridge in series

Toggle in third position

Middle only

Am I way off base here with my descriptions of what i want or?



These are my PU’s

20ECC0E3-0BE7-4CF3-9615-860D131119EC.jpeg
 

pipthepilot

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Here you go, this does what you're looking for.

Screenshot 2023-02-17 at 11.15.40.png

A couple of things to be aware of...

1. Make sure that the yellow earth wire on your neck pickup is only connected to the neck cover and isn't connected to the PU ground.
3. This diagram assumes that the pots are grounded via the control plate, you would need to add another ground wire from pot to pot if you aren't using a metal control plate (for example, a Thinline with plastic guard would need an extra ground wire).

Any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

EDIT: just reread your post and I realised that the order of the switch in my diagram is slightly different to what you asked.

Position 1: Bridge
Position 2: Bridge & Neck (Parallel)
Position 3: Neck
Position 4: Bridge & Neck (Series)

The 3 way toggle is correct.
Position 1: As selected from 4 way switch
Position 2: As selected from 4 way switch plus Middle PU
Position 3: Middle PU only

I can modify the diagram to match your requirements exactly if you want, let me know.
 
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pipthepilot

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Had some time to waste at lunch time, so updated it for you anyway. :cool:

Screenshot 2023-02-17 at 13.37.24.png

Generally, position 1 is considered the switch lever towards the bridge, so

Position 4: Neck
Position 3: Neck & Bridge
Position 2: Bridge
Position 1: Neck & Bridge in Series.
 

RedPillBlues

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Had some time to waste at lunch time, so updated it for you anyway. :cool:

View attachment 1086185

Generally, position 1 is considered the switch lever towards the bridge, so

Position 4: Neck
Position 3: Neck & Bridge
Position 2: Bridge
Position 1: Neck & Bridge in Series.

Thanks so much! I think I need a DPDT toggle for the TArmond middle? I see it’s labelled SPDT. Would that change anything? Again thanks for going through the trouble and taking the time to do this up!
 

RedPillBlues

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looks like they all all share the same solder joint. I know when I had these built I asked OC duff for a third wire for 4 way switching but it’s not attached to the cover.

Edit: I was totally wrong. The yellow is soldered to the tab as far as I can tell so all should be good?


1F534FF4-07D0-42DC-8E0E-D093838C1F8B.jpeg
 
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RedPillBlues

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looks like they all all share the same solder joint. I know when I had these built I asked OC duff for a third wire for 4 way switching but it’s not attached to the cover.

Edit: I was totally wrong. The yellow is soldered to the tab as far as I can tell so all should be good?


View attachment 1086261
8E73C1DE-CA48-4C31-BE02-29973ADB6A9E.png


Anyway to visualize a mini dpdt switch like the one above with the connections for the middle PU?
 

pipthepilot

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looks like they all all share the same solder joint. I know when I had these built I asked OC duff for a third wire for 4 way switching but it’s not attached to the cover.

Edit: I was totally wrong. The yellow is soldered to the tab as far as I can tell so all should be good?


View attachment 1086261
Its hard to tell from the photo but won't hurt if you can double check with a multimeter. When you wire the neck is Series it works because the neck pickup isn't grounded when bridge PU is selected, if the yellow wire is grounding, the neck will be on in all positions.
 
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pipthepilot

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Thanks so much! I think I need a DPDT toggle for the TArmond middle? I see it’s labelled SPDT. Would that change anything? Again thanks for going through the trouble and taking the time to do this up!
You don't need a DPDT, you can use a Switch-craft toggle switch like this which is what I drew in the schematic.

61hDpHYncbL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
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RedPillBlues

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If you want to use a mini DPDT switch, its very simple you can wire it like this. Just make sure you buy an On-On-On version.

View attachment 1086334

Ok thanks again for these drawings! How do you whip em up so quick? Is it CAD? I actually have that exact Switchcraft switch. The mini dpdt would save me a little room. I’m drilling the hole in the control plate between the volume and tone pots.
 

RedPillBlues

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Ok thanks again for these drawings! How do you whip em up so quick? Is it CAD? I actually have that exact Switchcraft switch. The mini dpdt would save me a little room. I’m drilling the hole in the control plate between the volume and tone pots.

Is that a jumper wire between the middle terminals. Tone pot left side soldered to middle terminal and a jumper going from the same joint to the adjacent terminal?
 

pipthepilot

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Ok thanks again for these drawings! How do you whip em up so quick? Is it CAD? I actually have that exact Switchcraft switch. The mini dpdt would save me a little room. I’m drilling the hole in the control plate between the volume and tone pots.
I draw them all in Adobe Illustrator, I've done so many schematics over the years I've go all the components already drawn, just need to drag and drop.

After I posted the picture of Switchcraft toggle switch it occurred to me that maybe you want to save space with a mini switch. You have multiple choices now 😀
 

pipthepilot

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Is that a jumper wire between the middle terminals. Tone pot left side soldered to middle terminal and a jumper going from the same joint to the adjacent terminal?
So the tone pot is the one at the bottom. There is a wire that goes from the left lug of the tone pot to the left lug of the volume pot. Then a wire from left lug of volume to BOTH middle terminals of the mini switch.
 

RedPillBlues

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Is that a jumper wire between the middle terminals. Tone pot left side soldered to middle terminal and a jumper going from the same joint to the adjacent terminal?

Sorry terrible description on my part. Jumper wire
Yes, you could use three wires but to make it simpler, I would just strip the wire a bit longer at the switch and feed the wire through both holes and then solder like this.

View attachment 1086358
Perfect! Solder both terminals?
 

RedPillBlues

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Switching aside, Josh Smith’s playing in that video made me either want to start practicing a lot more or give up altogether. Good lord, that dude knows all the licks, doesn’t he?

Unreal. The guy knows the fretboard inside out and doesn’t need to think about anything it seems.
 

RedPillBlues

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Yes, you could use three wires but to make it simpler, I would just strip the wire a bit longer at the switch and feed the wire through both holes and then solder like this.

View attachment 1086358

Was looking at the drawing with the sdpt and it goes to ground on the volume pot. The mini toggle doesn’t. Just the difference in switch type and their requirements?
 

pipthepilot

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Was looking at the drawing with the sdpt and it goes to ground on the volume pot. The mini toggle doesn’t. Just the difference in switch type and their requirements?
You'll get away without grounding, it doesn't need a ground to work. The Switchcraft toggle has a tab for the ground wire, so it's good practise to use it. The mini switch will be grounded if its mounted to the metal control plate. If you're mounting to the plastic pickguard, you could add a wire under the washer but you don't need to.
 
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