Copper finish that will age?

[geetarguy24]

Starting a Danocaster build some time in the future, and I'd love to recreate the classic Dano copper finish that starts off new, but hopefully would age gracefully into something like this:

(link removed)

As a novice painter, I'm ideally looking for something that comes out of a spray can, has that cool salmon-copper look that's metallic but not sparkly, but will oxidize and patina over time as I wear through the clear coat. I don't mind waiting 40 years for results

 

[philosofriend]

Sounds like you just want the cheap metallic paint that elementary schools use to turn cardboard into armor for the school play. I googled "metallic spray paint" and came up with lots of that crummy stuff. If you want to clear coat over it, I would use a clear from the same paint type, same manufacturer. Otherwise you have to experiment to see if your favorite clear will react with the metallic.

Most of those cheap sprays seem to be oil enamels. Nitro or any other lacquer over an enamel will usually turn into a wrinkled mess.

Danos were built with every cost-cutting detail known to man. I love the look of the original finishes, but they were not made with high quality materials. There is no reason to use the finest materials to try to copy that look.

If I wanted to make a hot rod car look cool and old I would buy metallic powder and mix it with nitrocellulose lacquer. The result would look better than any Dano ever did.

 

[Festus_Hagen]

ReRanch Metallic Copper is really close to that.

 

[Zepfan]

Back in the day we had oil based enamel paints that would change tint over the years into something awesome or into a nasty Soylent Green tint that made you want to burn it to save humanity.
Oil based paint today is a no-no.
The Acrylic enamel paint of today doesn't change as much, it fades some, but that's about it. But you can combine some different tints of paint to make a "OLD" finish with some practice and the right color combinations. Have fun and hope you find what you want.

 

[Zepfan]

I think you may be able to find some oil based enamels made for automotive engine applications in a auto part store.

 

[eMGee]

Not an aerosol but you could try Metal Masters Reactive Copper paint. it will develop a patina. Clearcoat and let it oxidize where it wears away.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMG3JZW/?tag=tdpri-20

 

[geetarguy24]

ReRanch Metallic Copper is really close to that.

I do like the luster of the reranch copper, but it just looks too brown to my eyes. Any way you know of that I can lighten it up? maybe with a red type coat underneath? thanks!

 

[geetarguy24]

Not an aerosol but you could try Metal Masters Reactive Copper paint. it will develop a patina. Clearcoat and let it oxidize where it wears away.

That looks like it would work perfect! their website says it's water-based acrylic, would i be able to spray nitro over that, or will i have to use an acrylic clear coat as well? don't know much about acrylic, other than it doesn't tend to yellow... do you know if it has the same fragile, "prone to aging" qualities that nitro has? thanks!

 

[Silverface]

As a novice painter, I'm ideally looking for something that comes out of a spray can,

The original was a finish infused with tiny brass particles - a metallic that doesn't really look like one until it ages and tarnishes.

Copper paint will react in the same manner - but you'll need to practice the application on scrap before applying it to a guitar. It's a very difficult finish to apply evenly over flat surfaces.

Most actual metallics...which are the only ones that *may* tarnish (call the manufacturer and verify first if it's not labeled specifically as a :weathering copper" or similar). You will need to remove EVERYTHING, mask the edges with very high quality masking tape; clean it with naphtha to remove contaminants (Ronson lighter fluid - NOT charcoal lighter - is naphtha with a couple benign additives); dry scuff-sand with 220 grit to lightly roughen the surface.

Then I suggest priming with XIM. It's a great adhesion promoter, and copper paints historically are a bit weak in adhesion because of the "pigment load".

Then spray the copper paint in ONE direction only in light passes. Lacquer is usually applied (by aerosol) using 3 light passes per coat; in this case I would apply single, light, transparent sweeps with minimal overlap over the whole surface - then repeat, always working from right to left or left to right - DON'T change directions - metallic pigments have an "orientation" and generally require one-direction passes with the piece hung or suspended so you spray at a 90-degree angle and a consistent distance.

Go slow and don't worry about coverage - concentrate on consistency and eventually the coverage will happen. Stop when it's fully covered - don't go too thick.

And if you want a patina and wear I would not use a clear coat. I'd lightly buff with a liquid buffing compound - do not use any wax o0r silicone product or "polish".

If you practice first until you get it all refined it should work out great!

 

[Flakey]

"Then spray the copper paint in ONE direction only in light passes. Lacquer is usually applied (by aerosol) using 3 light passes per coat; in this case I would apply single, light, transparent sweeps with minimal overlap over the whole surface - then repeat, always working from right to left or left to right - DON'T change directions - metallic pigments have an "orientation" and generally require one-direction passes with the piece hung or suspended so you spray at a 90-degree angle and a consistent distance."


THIS CAN'T BE EMPHASIZED ENOUGH!

I've had success with this product.

https://www.jbtoolsales.com/duplico...MIpYjMqYP43wIVRbnACh2QgQXBEAQYASABEgI5H_D_BwE