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Discussion in '2009 TDPRI Tele Build Challenge' started by IrishMail, Feb 13, 2009.
Watch that 5th neck screw does not hit the truss rod. ;O
Thanks! I drilled the starter hole without finding metal, and (on your suggestion) screwed the big-daddy hold-down screw into the neck to the appropriate depth.
Whew! No metal found once again. Weeks ago, I checked the neck's no-load bend, and I'd have to guess that if it really IS steel-reinforced, it'll do quite well.
I appreciate the heads-up!
B l a c k g o o p
They say that a picture is worth a thousand words. I cannot take a representative picture of the horrific gooey cruddy mess that is created during the wet-sanding process. The goop gets under my nails, into cuts, and every crack, crevice, and pore of my hands. It splashes onto and into everything nearby, and respects nothing. Here's my best shot....
This post is about one of the six groups of costs that I had outlined, the SIGNAL. Yesterday I wondered if the electronics place would be able to deliver in time, so that this beast could be assembled and tested.
SIGNAL - from the strings and their ground wire to the pickup, all the way to the output jack. Six days ago, I ordered every single item in this group (except the strings and the pup) by snail-mail from a southern California supplier, since I was temporarily without a credit card. The package arrived TODAY by priority mail!!! I need to see how this comes together in the control cavity.
"B l a c k g o o p"
I guess it was only dry on the outside, eh?
Actually, the finish was plenty dry and hard. While wet-sanding, the dried pigment was minutely ground up and suspended in an aqueous solution. It was this 'paste' of water and finely sanded paint which I referred to as 'Blackgoop'. And because pigment is still pigment, even in water, it stained shoes, clothing, and skin. Yuk!
Great build, btw. I especially like the poplar neck - are you gonna use it or make another? I'll have to stay tuned to the Nashville Channel to find out, I guess.
- - -
I checked out the signal-path stuff I got in the mail. The most interesting item is the audiophile-class potentiometer manufactured by Noble in Japan, which coincidentally follows this guitar's component heritage. Functionally, it seems perfect: audio taper and a push(off)-pull(on) SPST switch. The switch is for the very simple pickup coil-tap.
Physically, however, its shaft is longer than I need. With a knob seated and the switch pushed in, the bottom of the knob-skirt sits 5-16" above the control plate, so the shaft will get cut down. Further, the switch is slightly wider at the bottom than the full-size pot, as pictured, and I'll be widening the control cavity slightly to allow this to fit.
Oh, and I don't think that I'll be using this particular volume knob. It's been used so much that the "10" doesn't have any color in it anymore. I certainly don't want a knob that won't let me crank it past "9", now would I?
I widened the control cavity where the pot/switch will go, being careful to keep the action beneath the control plate, which acts as a lid. Now, I discover that this switch is just a bit deeper than I had desired. I'll have to scrape the bottom of the cavity deeper and hope that I don't go through the back. It's gonna feel like digging through to China ( or for you Aussies, to Bermuda or Atlantis ).
I didn't wipe away the wood fragments, for a realistic photo. But then, since I was shooting into a hole in a black surface, I artificially lightened the shot for better viewing.
A few days ago I mused that I wanted to add 'something flashy'. Earlier, a gentleman from Ohio, Mr. Parma Telemon, suggested lava-lamp parts, but I couldn't quite get the vision. I remembered how my brother (crazy as me, but in a different way) used to peddle sequined and studded clothing to Nashville wanna-be's years ago, and dug this old thing up:
I picked it up during one of the times I lived very close to Canada, hence the French on the box. I called my brother, for ideas, inspiration, and technique. He recommended that I 'not go there'. I argued that it would be so Nashville twangy, but he had a different notion. He turned me onto some really good stuff, (not in the Cheech & Chong sense).
It's a foil laminate that at first blush looks kinda like the flashy pencils that kids win at the school carnival. Whoa, baby! I cut a pickguard-sized piece off the roll and took pictures in today's sunshine. A few are kinda milky, I think, because my camera gave up trying to grok the reflections from this stuff. Mind you, it's shiny and silvery, not colored at all, but has an embossed prismatic pattern that, well, blows my mind. I think I got my 'flashy' for the pickguard, no?
Here's the 'light show':
Now, isn't that relaxing? Makes me want one of those new-fangled California medical cards. If it please the judges, here are more, all of the same 9"x12" sheet.
Dear me, reminds me of when I opened for the Jefferson Airplane.
Thanks, Brother, and I wish all of your ideas the best of good fortune!
Reminds me of when I ate some toad stools...
Might it have possbly been psylicybin mushrooms?
Woah!! uh, far out, maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaan. uh, what were you gonna do with that again?
That stuff kinda reminds me of the finish on my Strat:
Can't wait to see the finished product.
Just a hint.... :!:
Is that black bar a dual purpose finger rest & switch slot/screw cover upper ??
On the paper backing of this self-adhesive foil, it reads (in part):
DAZZLERS - Self Adhesive Decorative Covering
Self-Adhesive STICK & LIFT Shelf and Drawer Liner
From what my brother tells me, it was part of the "ConTact Paper" product line before real the ConTact folks went out of business, or sold to RubberMaid or something. It's presumably an obsolete product, and he found some old stock in a craft store, in colors as well as this silver foil.
I'll peel the backing off and stick it to the pickguard.
Actually it's a StarrLabs StarrSwitch 4+. Just basically a lighted push button pickup selector. I went back to a regular ol' 5-way switch though as my fingers were just too big for the little buttons, but it was a cool concept though.
I just do NOT like the idea of bringing out a Weapon Of Mass Destruction at the time when I've nearly completed the finish. I could, however, clearly see the hole from the very tip of the brad-point bit which started the control cavity. Lacking any sophisticated tool-foolery, I chiseled my way down to removing those little black dots from the brad-points, thus deepening the cavity (without poking thru to China).
Nope, not deep enough, when I set the pot/switch into the hole. So, I again, brought out the (roar of engines) rotary rasp. Since I was down inside the cavity, I was adequately comfortable (and rather sedated) to set about grinding and tearing away at the old waterbed/jacuzzi lumber. I set the pot/switch into the control panel (CP) and tested again. Damn! Keep going! - down, down down.
Whew, I finally was able to set the CP on the flat with the pot/switch inside. Well, that's another thing I don't have to lose sleep over (9 days left!). I stuck a steel rule inside, so I could see how much deeper I cut. It was just shy of a quarter-inch, so I'll say 7/32" deeper, and I didn't (courtesy of The Doors) "Break On Through", to the other side.
Here's a look at (of course) another hole, and the WMD that caused it. I can sleep.
Sandpaper, more sandpaper
I've spend so much time sanding, maybe I should change the name to Sand-Caster. In the interest of completeness, especially for readers who haven't jumped into building (yet!), here's my "block" about sandpaper. Goodness knows I've used more than just these few sheets; the photos are just examples.
I used the Black & Decker sander with red garnet 50 on the former jacuzzi step in order to get the wood flat enough to draw my pattern outline with a sharpie.
Flint 80 on the sander again to cut into the wood filler, which dried much harder than I would have guessed (I never used it before).
Smoothing and refining the primer was done with flint 120 on the plastic hand sanding block, which I picked up last summer at the 99-cent store for my Musicmaster Bass amp/speaker enhancement project (in my signature).
At this point, the B&D sander was put away. It's all by hand from here on out.
For some reason, I don't have any sandpaper between 120 and 600, so when I started making that icky black goop by wet-sanding, it was 600. This phase of finishing probably took more time because I wasn't using the 'proper' paper, but I could clearly see where I needed to focus my attention.
Yuck, that goop! If only I had read the warning on the back of the 3M WetOrDry 2000 before I started to wet-sand. It reads:
"WARNING: Wear eye, face and body protection"
I imagine that it's their standard warning for all abrasives, because I can't see wearing safety glasses when using sandpaper that's so fine it could buff fingernails.
Yesterday, I block-sanded (wet) with the 2000 which took a LONG time. I now feel comfortable with finishing the finish coat, but the body is now so smooth that I'll need to scuff it up with 600 just to get the paint to stick. Yeah, it's that smooth!
[ end of sanding block ]