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Discussion in '2014 TDPRI Tele Build Challenge' started by Jfellows, Mar 2, 2014.
Yes, that looks great !
Thanks folks - there's still plenty of time for me to screw it up, but so far, so good!
Thanks. I like the saw, it cuts pretty well, but I wouldn't buy it again. The aluminum top is just too light. I would prefer something with some weight - steel for sure. And you have to be careful with that fence, it's easy to get it misaligned. But plenty of power though.
Last evening I pulled the neck out of the clamps and trimmed the excess fretboard on the bandsaw.
Then lined it up on the router table
and routed it flush, except for the fretboard extension which I will do on the ROSS once I have cut the fret slots so that I can determine exactly where to end the extension.
Then marked and drilled the tuner holes. Drilling from the back side so that any blow out, (there wasn't any) would be removed by the headstock thicknessing.
Good idea - because I still have mixed feelings. Here are all 3 options.
Left is original.
Middle is Short pickguard, with cocobolo rings and cocobolo knobs.
Right is original, but with rings and therefore a slightly narrower pickguard.
I suppose there's also the option of Short pickguard and no rings.
FYI - just a photo with dome knobs instead of the speed knobs, these are what I was planning based on the original drawing.
I like the smaller PG
There's also the option of short pickguard with dome knobs
The dome knobs definitely match the build a lot better than the speed knobs IMO. They'd go well with the bridge and tailpiece and even the jack output as well.
May be a bit wasteful, but how about cutting out the full sized pickguard and laying everything out? If it's too much cocobolo, you could then cut it down to the smaller pickguard.
I like the smaller, but with the longer "nose". On your drawing on the guitar, you have a bigger "nose" that goes closer to the edge. I think thats the one
LOVING THIS! Your work on this build is inspiring, Jonathon. And I vote for the middle option: small pg, pickup rings, and rear-routed with cocobolo knobs.
Stopped by a wood source yesterday and picked up some cocobolo pen blanks that I can use to make some knobs. Got a few more than what I really needed because they weren't that expensive, and I may need to practice a bit. I also grabbed this cut-off from the scrap bin for $5. It's got a really nice figure, and I may need it for a control cavity cover or something. It's cut on an angle, but I can flatten it out in the same manner as thicknessing a headstock.
Since the next step on the body is to route cavities, I think I'm going to see about making the knobs next, because that will drive a lot of the final decisions, once I know what things will look like. Of course I'll continue on with the neck also.
This is a very cool build!
Well, I finally got a chance to get a bit of work done this afternoon. Spring has sprung over here, and it took me most of Saturday to whip the yard into shape. I found myself kind of wishing it was still cold and nothing was growing, because I tend to be able to work at a faster pace in the winter months when the plants are all asleep. But the weather's been really great, so I won't complain.
Got some work done on the neck.
I built a new jig for fret slotting on my radial arm saw. Template on the top end, and rails on the bottom to keep it squared up, and an adjustable foot to account for the different heel shapes (Strat & Tele) that I use.
This is a sled that I put up on the RAS table, and I built a separate fence for when I'm using this. The fence has a small strip of aluminum epoxied in that indexes on the sled. The fence on the RAS is not fixed, so I can slide it a little bit either way to line the nut slot line up with the blade for the first cut.
Took me a few hours to get this all planned out, cut and assembled. But once it was done, I slotted the neck in under 4 minutes.
Here you can see the index on the fence
The end result:
Then I took it over to the ROSS to sand the end of the fretboard flush, and to shape the fretboard extension shape.
This neck will have 22-1/2 frets. Or maybe 22-3/4. Something like that.
And that's actually all I got done, but I should have some time in the mornings and evenings this week. Knobs are on tomorrow morning's agenda.
Dear God, that neck is a thing of beauty!!
Not just the cocobolo (though that is fantastic), the heel is a lovely shape. That shape is now on my 'things I have stolen off other people on TDPRI' list....
Beautiful neck Jonathan .
Truly remarkable. I love how the swoops in the FB grain echo the curves in the body.
very nice looks amazing
I'm glad you like it. I was just drawing it up, and thought it came out nice, and would compliment this particular build.
That was semi-planned. I hoped it would work that way, but had other things to work around.
Had time to get a little work done this evening. First was to thickness the head stock. I had some scraps from when I built this router table that are basically 1-1/4" particle board with laminate on both sides. Started life as a cubicle workstation desktop that I scavenged from some demolition.
I had sliced these two strips which work well as a base for thicknessing stuff. I just stick it to the table with the double-sided tape, and put the extended base on my router, and then tape another piece of wood on as a stop. If you take the time to get the stop block lined up right, this is a cinch. I take off about 1/32 at a time until it gets to be about 5/8".
Then I switch to a 1/2" radius core box bit, and adjust the position of the stop block
and get this:
In this pic I penciled in the line where I'll mask when I paint the neck to smooth out the hard corner of the veneer. The maple will all be opaque white lacquer, and I'll cover over the harsh corner.
It's a little tighter radius than I get with the ROSS, but it sure is easier and it works very well.
With the nut just to see...
The actual transition from the fretboard to the headstock veneer will be virtually invisible.