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Discussion in '2015 TDPRI GSM Build Challenge' started by Guitar novice, Jun 11, 2015.
Not that long ago ....
Dang man!! you are well underway here lol
good luck man, the wood looks great!
Time to joint the top. Same process as the back.
The top is King William pine and it's really easy to plane. A couple of passes with the plane and a bit of touch up with a sandpaper level and it was good to go.
Photo of the sort of shavings I could get. I was almost disappointed I couldn't do this for longer.
On to the jointing jig. I needed to move the end blocks in a bit after a bit of planing as the pressure wasn't enough.
Glued up and ready to go
Next was to redo the fretboard radiusing jig. My initial attempts put a 6 inch radius instead of 12. Thanks to Dave and Mojotron for pointing it out.
Only problem is that my routing template wasn't long enough so I had to create my own template.
A couple of passes
and it's done
Cut them to suitable sizes and attach them to the router.
Good to go.
Guitar Novice's TDPRI 2015 GSM Challenge
Just out of curiosity, why did you go all the way around the circle with the router when you only needed about 1/2 of it?
pure fun i would think
That's the sort of stuff I work out after i've done it. There's been a few of those moments already.
I could use the excuse that I wanted to selected the cleanest sections... yeh lets go with that
Last thing today was to begin making the kerfing.
Using queensland maple. Initially I couldn't work out the grain direction so I sanded an end and pencilled in the grain so I don't stuff it up later. Here is the blank.
Instructions said 5mm thick.. Sliced it off on the bandsaw and then finessed it to size with the drum sander.
It doesn't look right to me so i've stopped for now. Will do more research before I continue with the kerfing.
Anyone got any thoughts on kerfing vs solid lining for the soundboard and back?
this is cool
Hi Matt. I use a kerfing jig on the bandsaw which is simple accurate and has been duplicated a few times on TDPRI. If you check some of my builds you'll see that I usually build hollow bodies using this jig. To make the kerfs for a full guitar only takes a few mins once you have your stock made. Rich Rice also has a version.
Easy and quick to make and accurate. Contact if you need help.
I saw that earlier. very cool. Some guys are just brilliant at making jigs.
Thanks Dave, That is a really neat solution. I'm going to work on that tomorrow.
You got the concept that the little aluminium tongue thing is just to put your previous cut into to set the spacing of the cuts? The sliding mitre on the bandsaw pushes your stock into the blade at that set distance between the cuts, and the depth of cut is controlled by some sort of stop in the mitre track. Compulsory to have a rubber band to return the spacing tongue to full stretch
Perfect solution. I couldn't wait for tomorrow so I got back into the workshop.
I hacksaw blade is the perfect width for it. Here is my 10mins effort. I'll need to finesse the depths etc but I think it should work.
I think i'll shape them before cutting. Thanks for your help. Case in point of how good this forum is.
I found from experience that it works better if the spacer toggle is situated on the left hand side of the blade as it cuts. Your kerfed piece will then go to the left and will easily bend in front of the bandsaw support pillar as the cut end gets longer. Don't ask how I know!
That should be an easy fix. I'll come back to that later, now i need to shape the back arch.
Thanks, Matthew, hopefully next year the planets will align right. Personally I'm hopeful this year's Challenge will be the inaugural Glen Smith Memorial rather than just for this year. Might be time for some lobbying!
You made a great start, I will follow this build with interest. Good Luck!
Thanks for watching Lars.
Small update to come
So it's time to get the block plane out and shape the curve of the back into the sides. This step has me a bit worried as there is no template to follow. It's done by eye (which is not my strong point) and experience (which I have little).
The basic idea is that you take the sides down to the tail and neck block. This leaves a high point in the middle and then you contour the middle so you have a nice back arch.
A decent amount of arch will assist with increasing the volume of the guitar and should reduce wolf notes (which I think is more of a problem in violins).
I've put in about 3 hrs work into this but theres not a lot of photos i can show. Most of it is of the same sort of shots. I'll try my best to show the process in the photos
You can see in this photo the extra height the sides have over the top of the neck and tail blocks. I'm getting the first section down to level with the blocks.
One side brought down a bit. Much more to go. You can see how the right side in the middle starts to show a high point.
Other side is brought down a bit
The plane i'm using is a block plane by veritas. The blade is very sharp and as long as you don't go against the grain it gets nice and thin shavings off.
You can start to see how much the middle ramps up.
Quite close to the edge of the blocks now. You can see the 4 degree angle on the blocks which will provide gluing surface for the arched back.
At various locations on the mold i measure the heights. Trying to keep everything even. So far so good.
Used a levelling bar with sandpaper to assist with some of the shaping.
It's getting closer. The right is looking ok but the left needs more work.
It looks quite flat in this picture but it still has a fair bit of arch in it. I'm getting close. It's very easy to get a dip just after the neck block. When using the plane it's important to run past the block and not try and stop at the block.
I've now shaped the middle peak and its starting to show a smoother curve. I'm not sure if this is enough yet so i thought I would take a break and post on tdpri. I'll look at it again in 30 mins with fresher eyes.
Time to recheck the symmetry for height.
Thanks for watching.
Still a bit unsure but I think it's ready.
I'll look at it again tomorrow and see if i need to change the curve.
Next up is the carving of the back braces. Less stress doing this one and quite fun.
Calling it a night.
Last bit of progress. Got the clamps of the back and marked out the excess braces. You leave a few mm proud of the edge of the guitar as some of these will be recessed into the sides (some will also finish short of the sides).
The little Japanese hand saw is pretty handy for this task.
The ends are glued down hard so I didn't want to try and snap them off. Chisel made short work of the ends.
Done for the day. The back will live in the dish as much as possible so it can keep its curved shape.
Last week I had some acrylic cut to match a bracing pattern I'm going to follow. I got a mate to draw the pattern electronically using some plans. Double checked the cuts with the plans and all is good.