Completed a couple from FuzzDog

zippofan

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Maximum R&B for sure! Nice foundation overdrive, easy build, decals were a pain. I don't think I'll ever do all black on white decal stock again, look at it the wrong way and it smears, ever after letting it dry overnight.

WIIO_complete.jpg WIIO_Decals.jpg

Decal printed, then cleared, then applied. Held my breath alot when I was laying down decal solvent hoping that the black wouldn't run under the lacquer. Red LED looks cool, almost did white but glad I chose red.
 

Jonp

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These Fuzzdog kits are really well put together.
Built his Klon Centaur clone once, and that pedal is still my main light OD pedal.

BTW would live to hear some sound samples from that Hiwatt pedal, have been looking on youtube but could not find any. Is there a GGG of BYOC version of it I could Google?
 

Bristlehound

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These Fuzzdog kits are really well put together.
Built his Klon Centaur clone once, and that pedal is still my main light OD pedal.

BTW would live to hear some sound samples from that Hiwatt pedal, have been looking on youtube but could not find any. Is there a GGG of BYOC version of it I could Google?

Plenty of reviews on Youtube if you use WIIO and RAH in your search.
 

zippofan

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The FuzzDog kits are great, they got me into pedal building the most. I think it was a FuzzDog board that I first used to get my own parts orders rather than ordering up a complete kit, Then I discovered Aion, PedalPCB, DeadEndFX, 1776, Madbean etc when I figured I could just make consolidated orders from Mouser, Mammoth and Small Bear.

I deliberately built the WIIO version ("North" as FuzzDog called it) rather than the RAH, mainly because Pete Townshend is one of my favorite guitarists as I'm more of a rhythm player, my lead playing stinks lol, I also figured I wouldn't have to worry too much about drilling that 5th hole just right.

Speaking of, a package came from Small Bear today, and a Mouser box is due in tomorrow, with a PedalPartsPlus order yet to ship. Two boards on my bench, though no FuzzDog's, a 1776 Effects and a DeadEndFx are waiting to be stuffed.

I should mosey on over to FD and see what's new :D
 

zippofan

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Just an update, I finally found some OA126 diodes for my FuzzDog Harmonic Percolator. I had some slightly higher FV germaniums in there (about 0.4V), these are at 0.6V, though tough to test, every time I touch them for more than a few seconds the value changes lol. Darn germanium :eek::D

Brought up the volume a tad with the clippers switched in, though I honestly have to say I like the Percolator with the diodes switched off. Great circuit!
 

zippofan

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Hey Zippo, can you explain how to paint these and how to put labels on them?
Thanks.
I was using Testor's model lacquer for the bare aluminum boxes, but I found I could get powder coated boxes from a few places that cost about the same as a bare aluminum plus a can of paint so I switched to doing that. The powder coat holds up a lot better than the lacquer, though colors can be limited unless you go with Pedal Parts Plus and they're more expensive.

Decals are just ink jet water slide paper that have been clear coated. The hardest part for me was getting everything lined up. I finally figured out I could scan the drilled box, bring it into a graphics program (I use PowerPoint), then I know things will line up pretty well.

The problem with ink jet (or laser) decals is that you can't print white. The Hiwatt pedal above is a white ink jet paper printed over all black to let the white lettering show. I don't think it will hold up to a lot of stomping though. I don't play out so my pedals don't get banged around too much.
 

decibel

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I was using Testor's model lacquer for the bare aluminum boxes, but I found

Thanks, Zippo.
As a first time pedal builder, would the lacquer be okay? I really don't want to invest in powder coat equipment or spend a lot on pre powder coated enclosures. I got the 4-track and Mosrite kits and look forward to these builds. I always loved when I recorded incorrectly on 4-track and blew up the channel with beehive like fuzz.

PS. How are the components in the fuzz dog pedals?
 
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zippofan

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Thanks, Zippo.
As a first time pedal builder, would the lacquer be okay? I really don't want to invest in powder coat equipment or spend a lot on pre powder coated enclosures. I got the 4-track and Mosrite kits and look forward to these builds. I always loved when I recorded incorrectly on 4-track and blew up the channel with beehive like fuzz.

PS. How are the components in the fuzz dog pedals?

Sure, just make sure you prep the aluminum first. I sanded mine with emery cloth and wiped them down with naptha before spraying. You may get some chips in the paint when stomping on them, especially around the edges. I know kits come with the enclosures, I switched to buying boards from Fuzz Dog and others and drill my own boxes now which is why I switched to powder coat.
Components are good, resistors are metal film 1%, caps are film except where electrolytics are needed and those are Nichicon if I remember correctly, Alpha pots, pretty much the same that I buy in bulk from Mouser and DigiKey.
 

decibel

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Awesome, thanks. I got some spray lacquer. I also got a glossy clear top coat -- do you suggest that on top of the paint or only after adding the decal?

When creating the decal do you just make it to scale (i.e. measure the enclosure and then make the template that size) in software (I use photoshop)?
 

zippofan

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Awesome, thanks. I got some spray lacquer. I also got a glossy clear top coat -- do you suggest that on top of the paint or only after adding the decal?

When creating the decal do you just make it to scale (i.e. measure the enclosure and then make the template that size) in software (I use photoshop)?
I use ink jet decals, they have to be sealed before soaking water, not sure about laser decal paper. I spray a couple coats of Rustoleum clear lacquer to seal the decal, which is printed to scale, before soaking in water and applying. I let it dry at least overnight, then spray clear over just the top. The powder coated boxes don't need the clear on sides and back, and I've had the occasional incompatibility with paint and clear coat to where the sides ran on my painted boxes. It may have been my box prep too, but I had particular problems with purple metalflake and the clear, both lacquers.

There have been a few I had to sand off and start again, it happens.
 

awasson

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Thanks, Zippo.
As a first time pedal builder, would the lacquer be okay? I really don't want to invest in powder coat equipment or spend a lot on pre powder coated enclosures. I got the 4-track and Mosrite kits and look forward to these builds. I always loved when I recorded incorrectly on 4-track and blew up the channel with beehive like fuzz.

PS. How are the components in the fuzz dog pedals?

I don’t know if Zippo mentioned it but you can get powder coated boxes from Tayda Electronics for next to nothing. I use the 1590B sized enclosures and they sell for $5.50 to $6.50 per box.

Here: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/enclosures/1590b-style.html


They can look like this with a clear label that has been oversprayed with clear lacquer.

18307154-183E-4044-A31F-731B1A90F83A.jpeg C570AE63-1931-4659-91C6-020147660B98.jpeg C9060450-895A-43E9-9308-D5B0E117055E.jpeg 7A8B233F-0623-4B70-8DCA-38BD58E3F545.jpeg 4E53E1A8-0816-48F3-9F03-6DF304D37829.jpeg 26440E12-574E-4630-A8C2-F63004EB683E.jpeg
 

zippofan

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I believe they are true bypass, but it may depend on the original circuit. Should say in the kit/PCB instructions and schematics.
 

decibel

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Hey guys, the footswitch...it has 9 lugs that go through the daughterboard. do you solder all nine of those lugs to the DB or do they just float? the DB instructions are really bad...can't figure out what those lugs are for and if I should solder them to the DB.

I finished the main board easily. Those instructions were good.

Thanks!
 
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zippofan

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Yep, solder them all to the daughterboard. Just give a few seconds extra in between each joint to not overheat the switch. I've used quite a few different daughterboards, and my favorites are from FuzzDog or Rullywow.
 

decibel

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Yep, solder them all to the daughterboard. Just give a few seconds extra in between each joint to not overheat the switch. I've used quite a few different daughterboards, and my favorites are from FuzzDog or Rullywow.

Cool, thank you. No wires actually go in those 9 lugs, correct? They just get soldered to the DB with nothing run through them?
What exactly are those 9 lugs for?
 

decibel

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The daughterboard takes the place of the wires normally soldered to the lugs. They are the switch terminals, here's a good reference that I have used http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_3pdt_tb_dcj.pdf

Thanks.
I hate to bug you once more, but what is this part? It was with the Ic1, on the opposite side of it with foam in between. I see nothing on the diagram for a use for this.
https://i.imgur.com/D1J0SiW.jpg

Here is the board: https://i.imgur.com/v7OGXVe.jpg
Did I miss something?

Thank you!
 




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