Completed a couple from FuzzDog

zippofan

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I really like Fuzz Dog (Pedal Parts UK) builds, I did a Colorsound Overdriver clone awhile back and picked up a couple a few months back. The "Llamatron" (Red Llama clone) and "Bee Juice Overdrive" (Sweet Honey clone) were a couple circuits that I didn't have in my dirt collection. I could have Vero'd the Llama but I wanted to do the DOD first for my son so I opted for the PCB.

They came out pretty good I think, and sound great! The SHOD is Duplicolor Metalcast, the Llama was too originally but I had ton of problems with the paint not curing all the way so it's back to lacquer (Testor's) only from now on.

RedLlamaGuts.jpg RedLlamaComplete.jpg
SweetHoneyFinalGutshot.jpg SweetHoneyFinal.jpg

I just made the decals with PowerPoint and printed them on clear waterslide paper.
 

zippofan

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The hardest part is lining everything up, you'd think that transferring the measurements from the drill templates should be straightforward, but I always end up being a little off...Then it's 5-6 reprints on regular paper before I'm ready to print on decal stock. Inevitably I mess something up, it's funny but it takes less time to build the electronics (including Vero builds) then to properly finish the darn enclosures.
The Red Llama above was stripped and repainted three(!) times. The very last coat of clear fogged on me, so I spent hours hand rubbing the finish with Flitz until I got out most of the fogging, still some on the back, but well, it's the back :p
 

matmosphere

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Excellent work! If you have the patience for water slide decals you are a better man the I.

I generally make artwork that has a bit of room to fudge things if needed, because I’m tired of trying to size things just right.

I mount the pots to the board and measure with a good ruler or calipers and then transfer the measurements using a combination square.

Those drill templates are worthless imo.
 

zippofan

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Excellent work! If you have the patience for water slide decals you are a better man the I.

I generally make artwork that has a bit of room to fudge things if needed, because I’m tired of trying to size things just right.

I mount the pots to the board and measure with a good ruler or calipers and then transfer the measurements using a combination square.

Those drill templates are worthless imo.

Thank you! I started with making individual decals awhile back but could never bury them in enough clear to make me happy. I have a couple that I'd like to redo now that I'm getting the hang of doing the full face of the pedal.
I need a combination square...hmm where is that old drafting kit I had from college... thanks for the idea!:)
 

zippofan

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Another quick build from Fuzz Dog, the Sunny-T in progress:

SunnModelT build.jpg

Looking forward to hearing this one! Working on the graphics now, but I won't finish this weekend, my graphics guy (son) is busy lol

I'm really loving this Testors lacquer too, hard to get a bad paint job, it just lays nice and even, dries quick, can wet sand if needed but so far I haven't had to. The flake is nice, I picked up some more colors today. Got a pure gold, purple, green and a pearl white. The pearl is for another FuzzDog build, a circuit I've really wanted to try for a long time.
 

zippofan

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It's alive, talk about gnarly!
Sunn_top.jpg Sunn_bottom.jpg Sunn_front.jpg

And a gutshot for showing minimal parts count, this is a one hour build:
Sunn_gutshot.jpg

All four of the match box fuzz pedals together. Harmonic Percolator, Peppermill, Sunn Model-T (Acapulco Gold mod), Tone Bender:

4_Match_box_fuzzes_Top.jpg 4_Match_Box_Fuzzes_Front.jpg

This was a fun bunch of pedals to build, though I'm still waiting on the red Davies knobs for the Peppermill.
 

zippofan

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Got another FuzzDog board on the bench, the "Chilly Biscuit", which you can probably figure out what it is a clone of. I've wanted to try this OD out with my Vox AC4 since I first heard about them. I used a Testors color called "White Lightning" which is a white sparkle/pearlescent lacquer. Since I used a bare Hammond 1590B I had to lay down a coat of plain white first. Decal came out good, clear ok as over the last week we went from 70's with 99 percent humidity to upper 50's, hard to get a good finish with that weather.

I'm waiting on some 3PDT boards from FD, I thought I had one more, oops. Four partial builds in progress, two waiting for parts. I think I can complete the spaceman boost if I've figured out the off-board wiring correctly, it's a Millenium 2 bypass circuit with a DPDT switch, I'll find out soon :D Parts came for a PedalPCB Karl fuzz yesterday, maybe I'll finish that one. Decal was a bear, as was the polished enclosure I used.

I've been thinking about getting an airbrush to spray water based paint, then I priced them :eek: I may be switching to pre-powder coated boxes over the winter. I also haven't tried the Future floor wax clear on pedals yet, I used that trick for Pinewood Derby models. They stopped making it for awhile, then changed the formula, then changed it back with a different name. Kids can lay down thick glossy clear just by slapping it on with a brush, which is why we used it when my sons were small. I don't know how it will work with a pedal, I know the last formula was no good which is why I stripped and refinished my BYOC Rangemaster.
 

zippofan

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Here's a Naga Viper clone from Jed's Peds in the UK. Came out ok, just like the others the hardest part is the darn box. This is a different size from both 125B and 1590B, sorta in between. I always prep by sanding, washing, and a solvent wipe (Zippo lighter fluid) before I paint. It's worked fine until this one, one side just decided to bubble up, weird. Sand it off, spray again. It was ok until I cleared the second coat and that side just melted away! So I sprayed both sides and didn't clear. Not sure if it's the paint or not, since I've had consistently good results with the Testors Extreme Lacquer and Rustoleum Clear Lacquer combo for everything else.

Anyway, since it's like a grape purple flake, a black printed clear waterslide wouldn't work. I thought of using white backing waterslide paper like I did for my match box fuzz pedals, but I wanted to see the deep purple color and decided to use dry transfer letters, and I found a funky silver cobra decal on eBay. Turns out it's from GIJoe toys! They didn't have any cobra stuff when I was a kid, my GIJoe was an astronaut (around 1970). Looks cool so I used it. I remember dry transfers being difficult from some other builds I did years ago but I figured I could get a good result. Yeah, like 7 tries :mad: I have a fine point silver paint pen but my printing stinks so I went with the transfers. Picked up a bag of bright white LED's for a dollar too, couple duds but otherwise cool.

Circuit sounds great, the pot tapers are just right and the Heat control gives it some grit. Full range to treble boost, nice to have with my other boosts. I subbed in a NOS mil-spec 2N2222A in a TO-18 case instead of the supplied TO-92, it was on the higher side of gain compared with others in my stash with an hFE of 130, most of mine are around 100, with one outlier of around 200.

NagaViper_off.jpg NagaViper_Gutshot.jpg NagaViper_on.jpg

Next up, another FuzzDog board, the Hot Cake :cool:
 

zippofan

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...and completed this one two, the FuzzDog "Chilly Biscuit", aka Hot Cake:

HotCake_complete.jpg HotCake_gutshot.jpg

Testors White Lightning pearl flake over a white lacquer basecoat, Rustoleum Clear Lacquer over clear waterslide decal. FuzzDog PCB's, Hammond 1590B enclosure, Lumberg jacks, Alpha pots and 3PDT.
This sucker has a lot of drive! Presence control is really reactive too, I'm glad I had the opportunity to build it. Now, to connect it up to my Vox AC4 w/NOS tubes and a Warehouse 10" Green Beret and crank it :cool:
 

zippofan

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Finished up Cap'n Crunch last night, lighting up the LED clippers with my Tele :)

Crunchbox_guts.jpg Crunchbox_top.jpg

Sounds great! The second clipping option is just a pair of 1N914's, nothing exotic this time. Darker and more compressed than the LEDs which works nicely with the bridge pickup. I've had the LM833 hanging around for a long time, it came out of something years ago and I can't remember what.
 

ahiddentableau

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Very nice, as usual, zippo. Those old matchbox covers make fantastic labels. Look really sharp--I want one of those now!

I built a hotcake about six months back but on an old school DIY etch. Based on an old mojo layout I found on one of the pedal DIY forums (freestompboxes I think). It turned out just fine, but it's based on the v1 schematic--the one with the LM741. But my presence control really didn't end up doing much of anything at all. Since yours is the V2, can you describe the action of that control for me? I like the overall sound of it so I might want to have a second go at it with the TL072 schematic if I think there's going to be enough of a difference.
 

zippofan

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The presence control on this Hot Cake layout is more than subtle on the midrange, at least with the small speaker amps I tested it with (10" Vox AC4, 5" ZT Lunchbox Jr, 4.5" Hotone/Mojo Diamond and 8" Orange with a 1W Wangs amp). I haven't plugged it into my Egnater or Panama 15 watters with 1x12"s which are the biggest amps/cabs I have.
The greatest effect was with my Vox which makes sense since that's what it was designed for originally.

Thanks for the comments on the matchbox pedals, they were a spur of the moment idea when I noticed the size similarity. I have one more coming, the oldest box I have found which I believe is 1930's, darn near mint condition except for some fading which I'll fix in Gimp after scanning. It's another fuzz of course, single chip, a buddy had an original in the 70's and I haven't heard one in the flesh since then so it should be fun!
 

zippofan

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After futzing with my Supreaux build, this one was a breeze, 1 hour build including drilling the enclosure and scanning the graphic! It's a FuzzDog Maestro MFZ-1 op-amp fuzz, the graphic is a 100 year old match box. I originally figured 1930's since it was in such good condition for an old cardboard box, but a little research showed that Diamond Co. changed the bottom of their match boxes before 1920 because they released the patent on non-poisonous matches in 1911. This box still has their old Underwriters Laboratories claim. How far we've come, huh?

The fuzz is more along the lines of a distortion, in fact if you like a DOD 250 you'd probably like this fuzz. Cleans up with volume control, and it gets fuzzy but not "Satisfaction" fuzzy. I should have socketed the diodes to mess around with germanium and Schottky, but the stock 4148's provide the OD250 flavor. Fun little fuzz!

SafeHome_Top.jpg SafeHome_Gutshot.jpg SafeHome_front.jpg SafeHome_bottom.jpg
 

zippofan

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This one will be the first completed pedal of the new year, "String Stinger" clone of the Vertex Steel String clean drive. It's a quick build but needs 4 J201's which are harder to find. The FuzzDog board includes pads for SMD J201's if you can't find the through hole parts.

PCB completed, box drilled and decal made in a day. Now I just have to wait for it to dry to clear coat it.

boxdecal.jpg
 

awasson

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Fantastic looking label! Now that I’ve got the Steel String up and running I’m going to box it up. I was going to put it in a coloured box but that shiny polished one looks fantastic so I may need to reassess my plan or maybe just do a temporary box up and follow your lead later.
 




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