COMPLETED --$100 Telecaster Challenge - Ketchup Caster

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Mark-00255

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Hey Mark,

Did you determine that the bridge won't intonate with 22?

I think the stain looks great...

Cheers,

Murray

Thanks Murray! I think my test above showing that I can get 25 1/2 inches on the bridge at the high E means it will intonate. It will be a long throw from the string through holes to the saddles though!
 

Mark-00255

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Interesting neck. Separate maple fretboard yet it has a skunk stripe. It appears the truss rod was installed from the fretboard side since there's no sign of an anchor on the back side. The skunk stripe must just be for looks. On Fender one piece necks the anchor is usually about a half inch from the end of the neck and visible from the back of the heel.

You can probably cut off 1/2 inch and miss the anchor. If you're concerned make it 3/8 in. Depending on your saw set-up, if you miss it at 3/8, you could take off a little more.

Drilling a 1/8 in. hole at 5/8 in. from the heel end could also help. This could be filled with a dowel.

Yeah, I thought it was strange, too, Jack. I’ve seen silly ads for necks on the bay that spout a skunk stripe as some kind of cool feature! Maybe the manufacturer uses the two-piece approach because they get more necks out of their maple boards – they can save the nice even grain stuff for fingerboards. Don’t know if that makes sense, but maybe.

I think I can take off ¼ … that would give me some more room on the bridge, and might make the long neck not as obvious when playing. And I have to think that would steer clear of the truss rod. Here’s a ¼ mark on the bottom (oh, and I finally sanded down the dowels:
QuarterInchMarkOnNeckHeel.jpg


I don't have a saw that would be up to this challenge, but think I could rout it!! That way I could get consistent depth too.
 

Skrik

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I had the neck problem, too. Jwells had the answer. Had I owned a table saw, I would have followed his advice, too. I ended up using a mitre saw, and I almost got it right. The neck now fits, but the heel isn't going to win any beauty pageants.
 

Mark-00255

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Didn't have much chance to work tonight, but I marked out a little more thoroughly how I think I'll cut the neck heel:
HeelMarkedforCutting.jpg


I figure I have to decide to go for it tomorrow, or just accept the long neck and intonate with long saddle screws. Meanwhile, I was touching up some dust spots on my rear rout cover and sprayed another coat of black fusion, and this happened:
BadPaintRearCover.jpg


Yuck - paint bacteria! Obviously I've sanded it down, but I may have to use some mineral spirits and start over on the black on this thing. No great loss if I have to cut a whole new piece - except for the copper tape already on the other side!

My finishing plan goes like this, starting tomorrow night after work with wet-sanding, then resuming Friday night and Saturday:

  • Wet Sand Body and Headstock
  • Polish Bridge
  • Drill Neck Mount Holes in Body
  • Re-Drill String-Through Holes
  • Buff Body
  • Fit and Mount Ferrules
  • Drill Volume and Tone Pot Holes
  • Attach Neck
  • Align and Drill Bridge
  • Install Pickup and Pots and Wire it up
  • String 'er up and shoot video of first twang!

Something like that anyways! It has been a fun journey, that's for sure!
 

mkhhunt

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Hey Mark,

Got my NYC necks today and the back of the maple one has 5 holes in it - the centre one at the heel is well past the last fret so you won't hit the truss rod if you cut yours back.

3349696568_1eac41c0ce.jpg


Cheers,

Murray
 

Mark-00255

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Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained

Decided to go for it on the neck heel. My objective – use my router to cut off about 5/16 and leave an equal 5/16 overhang over the body. Here’s the make-shift jig setup:
NeckHeelCutJig.jpg

Router Path:
NeckHeelRouterPath.jpg


First Cut is straight, with a slight tear-out on the right, but … it ain’t level:
NeckHeelFirstCut.jpg
 

Mark-00255

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Needed to shim the left side of the neck, under the t-shirt, using a piece of cedar shingle … second cut:
NeckHeelSecondCut.jpg


Better. Now re-set the jig to go lower to the final depth, 5/16 from the top at the side of the neck:
NeckHeelFinalCutJig.jpg


And here’s the final cut. Flat, but a little tear-out on the right, and a little seam:
NeckHeelCutDone.jpg
 

Mark-00255

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– I’m not worried, though. Remember I have the World’s Best Sandpaper! ;) Rough out the corners and fix the seam:
NeckHeelRoughSand.jpg


Smooth it all out – no flash this time:
NeckHeelDone.jpg


Test it in the neck template – dang, that might just work:
NeckHeelFit.jpg
 

Mark-00255

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And test it in the real thing – just can’t resist:
NeckHeelFit2.jpg

NeckHeelFit3.jpg


Remember in that last shot, it’s not screwed down. It’ll be nice and snug. Here’s a scale length test – last try at this I had the saddle screw almost all the way out to get it long enough – this time it’s screwed in quite a ways:
BridgeSaddleLength.jpg


That … will … work! As the kids say, I am stoked! I’ll probably take tomorrow afternoon off and get busy wet sanding the top and back.
 

martino

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Mark-00255; That … will … work! As the kids say said:
I am stoked[/B]! I’ll probably take tomorrow afternoon off and get busy wet sanding the top and back.

+1

nice save!
 

robt57

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I know the grain did not get filled completely, but the sinking of the finish into the grain I love personally. I could care less if a finish is like that or perfectly filled and the finish flat, actually on nice wood like that and ash etc I prefer the sinking. It is wood for Pete's sake I say. ;)
 
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