COMPLETED --$100 Telecaster Challenge - Ketchup Caster

Discussion in '2009 TDPRI Tele Build Challenge' started by Mark-00255, Feb 14, 2009.

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  1. Mark-00255

    Mark-00255 Tele-Holic

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    I don't see anything like that on my can, and I put 9 coats on my other Tele! I think this shrinks less than Deft does, actually. But I think I'm done at 5 coats on this body.
     
  2. Mark-00255

    Mark-00255 Tele-Holic

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    Uh Oh Long Neck!

    I’ve got a problem – I don’t know how I didn’t know this NY Pro neck was 22 frets … it’s a half longer than the usual Tele neck! Scale is right, but it’s just long. Here it is side by side with my SkyCaster – the nuts are lined up right next to each other:
    [​IMG]

    So, off came the paint stick, temporarily, and on went the neck to test this out. If by taking saddles to almost the limit of their space on the bridge, I can get to 25 ½ for the high E, I might be okay. I sure don’t want to try to adjust the neck pocket – it’s not as easy as making it a half inch deeper – the slope of the sides has to be right as well! Here’s the test:
    [​IMG]

    Looks like it will make it. But I know I’ve got to dowel the neck, cause who knows where the holes will line up, and the screws that came with the neck plate are 3/16 OD, and slip right into the existing mount holes in the neck heel with no screwing! That won’t work. So out came the little X-Acto saw and in go some dowels:
    [​IMG]

    I didn’t actually cut them in place! Just marked the depth for the cut. I put a little TiteBond in there and slipped ‘em in. Tomorrow I’ll sand ‘em flat.
     
  3. Mark-00255

    Mark-00255 Tele-Holic

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    Meanwhile, I’ve got 5 coats of poly on and it looks pretty good. Still some of the dark grain relief, but I can live with that. Just my rookie-ness with grain filler, I’m afraid:
    [​IMG]

    I think it will buff up well as is, and I don’t want to entomb this thing in too much plastic!
     
  4. Mark-00255

    Mark-00255 Tele-Holic

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    Details and Decals Today

    Today I worked on the neck a bit, wet-sanding and Deft-ing the front of the headstock so’s to put on some decals. I printed decals a couple days ago actually, and then shot them with Deft yesterday. You have to clear-coat decals, otherwise the inkjet ink comes off … Here’s the front:
    [​IMG]

    And the back:
    [​IMG]
    – no Deft on the back so you can see the difference in the way the decal lays down. Actually I didn’t even think about sanding and shooting the back. I’ll shoot a coat of Deft on both sides tomorrow night.
     
  5. Mark-00255

    Mark-00255 Tele-Holic

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    Then I masked and painted the pickup rout – I noticed on some photos of GE Smith models that it looks like the inside of the rout is painted black, which looks cool and I think gives it a more finished look, with the exposed rout. Here’s the mask:
    [​IMG]

    And the result, in some nice late afternoon alpenglow sun:
    [​IMG]

    BTW: I still have my doubts about this 22 fret neck – I’ll probably look for some longer saddles screws in a couple days, but that extra half inch of neck hanging out there is going be strange. Plus the pickup is going to be that much closer to the saddles – could mean some serious twang, I guess! Any opinions on this neck thing???
     
  6. robt57

    robt57 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I am assuming by you comment the fretboard does not overhang. So I'd sure set up a jig an take that 1/2" off the part of the heel that mates into the neck pocket leaving the fret side overhang. Maybe a little scroll on the end of the overhang. :cool:
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2009
  7. mkhhunt

    mkhhunt Tele-Meister

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    I have both 21 and 22 fret necked guitars; I don't think the 22 frets will be a big deal. I put a 22 fret neck on a tele copy and didn't notice any difference.
     
  8. shinigami747

    shinigami747 Tele-Holic

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    awesome build, mark!
     
  9. Zmatko

    Zmatko Tele-Meister

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    That makes a whole lot, would it be cool with really burnt edges 'round the rout, no? :D
     
  10. Mark-00255

    Mark-00255 Tele-Holic

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    Correct, Robert – it does not overhang. I don’t know about cutting it though. I don’t know where the end of the truss rod is, for one thing!

    Good to hear! Thanks, mkh!

    Thanks man! It always feels good to get some positive feedback!

    Cool idea - but, no! I think that poly would be an accelerant and it might be tough to control the burn!!
     
  11. steve gibson

    steve gibson Tele-Holic

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    You could probably find the end of the truss rod with a stud finder.
     
  12. robt57

    robt57 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Do a few 1/8" drillings and see where it starts maybe:confused:
     
  13. Ironwolf

    Ironwolf Poster Extraordinaire Gold Supporter

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    The simplest solution is just to deepen the neck pocket. Mod your template and it's a 2 minute job. Due to my own futz up, I had to re-cut the neck pocket on my first build about a quarter inch farther into the body in order to get the nut to bridge length right. It turned out great. I even had a cleaner, nicer fit with the heel of the neck than on the original cut.

    If it's worth getting right, it's worth doing right.
     
  14. Casual_Reader

    Casual_Reader Tele-Holic

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    Yeah... what he said!

    I don't know if it's an extra half inch to come off, but the square cut should be as close to a half inch from the center of the 21st fret as you can get.
     
  15. HUMBOLDTPAC

    HUMBOLDTPAC TDPRI Member

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    Hope this is some help. Standard truss rods are 18" long. Your truss rod adjusts from the head stock the truss rod should end in the middle of the screw pattern for neck to body attachment.
    Also you only need to remove a 1/4-3/8" and reshape. You could use a razer saw to do this.
    Good luck
    Jack
     
  16. IrishMail

    IrishMail Tele-Meister

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    Not that there's really anything wrong with a mini-tele, right Mark?
     
  17. Mark-00255

    Mark-00255 Tele-Holic

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    Interesting ideas, you guys! I'm leaning more towards cutting the neck, rather than the body. If this neck turns out to be a dud, then a standard neck rout on the body would be a good thing!

    Cutting a half inch off is not that much, really, and I could leave the fingerboard (remember this one is a two-piece with maple board glued on top) plus a little for the overhang. The fingerboard is about 3/16 thick and the overhang would have to be about 5/16. Here's the half inch line at the end of the neck - this is almost exactly under the 22nd fret:
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Mark-00255

    Mark-00255 Tele-Holic

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    At this point, I've embraced the stain and the whole project as another step in my progress in this building game. I love the overall look - that's why I went with the "Stained Esquire" label on the headstock (hope I don't get in trouble using 'Esquire'!!).
     
  19. mkhhunt

    mkhhunt Tele-Meister

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    Hey Mark,

    Did you determine that the bridge won't intonate with 22?

    I think the stain looks great...

    Cheers,

    Murray
     
  20. Jack Wells

    Jack Wells Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Interesting neck. Separate maple fretboard yet it has a skunk stripe. It appears the truss rod was installed from the fretboard side since there's no sign of an anchor on the back side. The skunk stripe must just be for looks. On Fender one piece necks the anchor is usually about a half inch from the end of the neck and visible from the back of the heel.

    You can probably cut off 1/2 inch and miss the anchor. If you're concerned make it 3/8 in. Depending on your saw set-up, if you miss it at 3/8, you could take off a little more.

    Drilling a 1/8 in. hole at 5/8 in. from the heel end could also help. This could be filled with a dowel.
     
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