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Discussion in '2015 TDPRI GSM Build Challenge' started by jvin248, Jun 14, 2015.
I get it a "little" metal work...lol
Really that's awesome.!
Loving your inlay work! And as for the roundover, I was hesitant to do one on my last tele build, but I ended up doing a 1/4" roundover, as well as forearm and belly cuts, and I absolutely love the comfort of it. I think it's the right way to go on a travel guitar, for sure. No regrets!
Thanks! With the jack plate I did .. "two little" metal working
The wire has been interesting to do, artistically. One of those processes that looks really bad at the glue-up but once it is sanded down it makes a huge transformation.
The roundover was such a shocking difference in feel at first but I've gotten more used to it. For a traveling guitar it was the right thing to do. The other two regular Tele bodies I posted earlier I'm not getting a 1/4inch roundover bit near them!
When I look at the inlay on your fretboard, all I can think is: YOUR GUITAR IS WINKING AT ME! Ha! Cool idea with the copper wire inlays. Looks like it will be pretty cool when it's all finished. Nice job!
Lol -- now I see that too!
Looking good. I really like the metal work. It looks great!!
Pictures of the revised truss rod nut attachment I'm trying on a new set of rods. Same basic construction as I did for this guitar's truss rod as shown early in this thread. The new test is cutting through the adjustment nut and into the rod with the bench grinder to create a clean welding channel that can lock it all together. That's the theory anyway that I tried to describe earlier.
I notch the 'headpiece' for easy access to the truss rod adjuster and spray paint it with 'hammered bronze' that I've used on a couple of projects now.
What Color should I finish my Travel Guitar in?
Debating which finish process I should use on my travel guitar,
Worn Yellow Burst
I'm leaning toward the Black to set off the wire inlays but I have a few black guitars already. I also have the stripe-inlay Tele with the worn look.
The stripe-inlayed body is the Affinity Tele I refinished earlier this year and is what a poly covered version of the Worn Yellow Burst will look like after clear coating.
Both bodies have, just in different order:
Golden Oak stain
I'd vote worn yellow burst, only how would you tackle the tuner recess? I think your wire inlays are close enough to the edge to where the black of the burst will set them off. Looking great! This build has really grown on me. In usually not a headless fan, but this one rocks!
I'm in the yellow vintage amber camp myself, no burst I think it would hide the inlay too much.
It will be a black around the body hook, however I'll have to be careful on the 'headstock' since I'm planning on leaving that close to maple-color so it stands out for what it is.
Thanks! I was searching for something different in a headless guitar too.
I should do a test piece to see if the inlay shows up better on black (maybe a thinner burst black rim) or the worn yellow.
Fretting the frets! Not really fretting it, but I had to build a couple of tools to complete this step.
An organizer tray, block of wood with 24 holes plus a nut holder. Didn't space the increment well enough and short one spot. When I make another at some point I'll do a fancier job with some inlay dots. Maybe.
I clamp maple strips to the slotting saw I have (a Japanese-type-pull-saw). I use a cut fret for the gauge plus add a smidge extra depth, I only set the one block the other is just a clamp cawl to not damage the saw. I don't try drilling holes and wing-nuts. That might be for the next time. I just use long spanning clamps I have and keep them tight. Drop the blade in the grooves and cut until the block tells me I'm at the correct depth. This provides a contoured groove.
Cuts look deep and no problems. A lot of back and forth watching that I don't twist the saw and widen the slots.
I have a drill-press I got at a garage sale years ago and could never get it to fit any of my hand drills as advertised. I was moving this thing around the other day and thought it might make a good dedicated fret press.
The bottom of the holding plate is flat. I cut a radiused cawl for the jaw out of wood and stacked that up with other handy blocks so I can tighten it all together with the provided drill case clamp (upside down).
A radiused block and a standoff give me a neck rest. A layer of cloth over the neck rest will protect the neck, although the rest is a softer wood than the neck's maple so it should dent first.
Press in the frets.
I bought pre-radiused fretwire but I built the little bender, shown here with a copper wire. The wheels are sliding closet door wheels with the crank from a window. I'll need to epoxy the crank-wheels before I use it but I got it mostly done.
Fret end file construction.
I used a piece of lumber, set the table saw at 25 degrees and ran a slot through. Then I drilled to screw holes to clamp the file in the slot. Many guitars are made with 45deg chamfer and some are made with 30deg. I wanted wider fret playing surface. I finish the ends with a hand file when I do a level and crown so I'll round them over mostly.
I file back until the chamfer continues into the fretboard slightly, 1-2mm. I've found that helps reduce the feeling of fret sprout if that is ever an issue.
Very nicely done, lot of folks on here have converted the HF arbor press into a fret press. Nice job with the old Drill press.
I have had my eye on the HF press too! I almost got it a couple of times when in that store. Then I remembered I had this old drill press that might work and my regular drill press for back up so I didn't *really* need the HF press. I still walk by it every time I am in there. The right coupon code comes along and I may get it "for pressing car parts together", you know.
I find my tray of walnut fingerboard dust I saved from sanding the fingerboard radius.
Using a flat-sided toothpick I fill and mound up the ends of the fret slots with the dust.
I put a drop of CA glue on each little pile and it sucks itself and some dust into the slot. I fill up on top of the slots with more dust.
After the CA glue dries I sand the fingerboard smooth again.