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Discussion in 'Guitar Owners Clubs' started by bfgz, Aug 5, 2009.
Hi Borris, Did you have to use a file to smooth the newly drilled holes at all?
Well....it happened. I had only one (my first ‘51), as of a couple months ago. Now, they’re multiplying. A 2004 model now in the house & I’m blown away again. The previous owner put flatwound strings on it (very interesting to play on for the first time). It is soooo... yellow, like grey poupon mustard! Anyone know what genre flatwounds cater to, or are desired for? The neck plays like melted butter. I plugged it in (it has it’s original pickups), & holy cow...I don’t see why anyone would want to change them out. The range of tones is...damn! The tones themselves are....hot damn! It has been played a bit & isn’t pristine (so less fear of leaving it out), but it’s well broken in & will be further relict by some bonding time & wear. It arrived with a few dings up in the high register, on the fat e string’s frets. I’m debating to keep it & repair it myself, or send it back since it is the rarest of the earliest models (2004 with white pick guard). I thought to keep it since the location of the minor damage is at a spot on the fretboard where I rarely go on the fat e. What say you?
That's definitely a keeper... good score.
I learned three things about ‘51’s today....#1) if your stock 3-way selector is a little stiff...don’t use a flathead screwdriver to bend/pry the plates apart to try & make room. That is a single ball bearing (between the flat plates), that can fall out & will be a huge pain the put back in between the plates. I used a very small dab of Plummer’s waterproof grease on the ball bearing & contact points, to help it turn a little smoother. For those of you looking to replace the selector switch back to the original 3-way dial switch, it is an “Alpha” brand potentiometer #”3I2”, I think they meant “312”, not sure.
#2....I think the folks at the Squire plant coated the potentiometer cavities with noise/hum cancelling metallic paint (it’s kinda chalky black). Anyone know?
#3....the control knobs can be fragile because they are metal on the outside, but ALL plastic on the inside (no mounting screw at all). So they can be easily worn out if you take them off too much. Fun stuff! “\m/“
Now it looks like this
Use an ohm meter and measure resistance between any two points of that paint. If conductive then it is shielding some.
Glad to see shielded cable to the jack.
If you want to cut noise further, get a roll of Nashua aluminum flashing tape (will be in the HVAC area of the store) and line the cavities.
They do not, I just bought a GFSbridge to test that theory & no go. The saddle screw holes don’t line up
Any idea why these guitars are going for $550-700USD + $75-125 for shipping on eBay from Japan? They're still the Made in Indonesia versions, NOT the Japan-made and discontinued Pawn Shop 51 guitars either.
I want the Tele sound without paying an outrageous price for a custom Tele body with forearm and tummy contours. Would rather mod a 51, but $575 for an Indonesian Squier and $65 for shipping?!?!?
New member here, first post not sure if this the right place to post this.
Purchased a Squier '51 tonight. Nuce guitar. I noticed that there is no serial # on the back of the headstock. It was not sanded off that I can tell and it has a weird sticker on the back horn with A. G. S. and a number. I've never seen a '51 with that type of S/N sticker before. Anyone seen anything like that?