Cloning a Silvertone 1482

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by ArcticWhite, Aug 19, 2018.

  1. ArcticWhite

    ArcticWhite Tele-Holic

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    Using a Hammond AO-29 as a base to build up a Silvertone 1482.
    I have a buddy's 1482 to use for reference (see pic 1). Note that there is no tag board in this thing. It's all just point to point .
    Any recommendations on how to start wiring it? Left to right? Follow the signal? Resistors first?
    I've almost finished stripping the Hammond. Leaving the heater wiring and transformer wires in place.

    20180802_232516.jpg


    20180807_024208.jpg
    Hammond AO-29 gut shot.
    20180809_010121.jpg
    Almost stripped.
    20180819_105457.jpg

    Planning to cut about 5 inches off the end of the chassis using a Skilsaw and abrasive blade. The end of the chassis is folded and riveted on. I will cut the end panel and bolt it on in a similar fashion.
    Wish I had access to a sheet metal brake and a bandsaw!
    20180819_111510.jpg

    silvertoneSilvertone_1482.gif

    IMG_20180819_104035.jpg
     
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  2. muscmp

    muscmp Tele-Afflicted

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    you were surprised with the innards of the 1482?
    i have a 1482 and it is one of the best amps particularly with its tremolo.
    i also have a hammond ao-43 amp and ao-42 preamp. i'll be following as i might turn those into a 1482 or 1484 as i also have 2-12" heppner speakers and a reverb pan from an L112 hammond.

    do you really have to do all of that chopping? can't use the chassis as is?

    good luck!

    play music!
     
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  3. ArcticWhite

    ArcticWhite Tele-Holic

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    The chassis of an AO-29 is over 22 inches long. Too long for a head or.combo really.
     
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  4. Nickfl

    Nickfl Tele-Afflicted

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    Are you going to do it with a turret board or true PTP like the original?
     
  5. ArcticWhite

    ArcticWhite Tele-Holic

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    That was one of my intended questions to the board. I could try to use one of the Hammond boards, or just do it PTP.
    It's a pretty simple amp.
    Which is easier? Which is better?
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2018
  6. Nickfl

    Nickfl Tele-Afflicted

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    I'd just to it PTP. I did my last two builds that way and it works really well for relatively simple circuits like this. Sometimes you do need a few more connection points than the tube sockets, jacks and controls provide, I used a couple of terminal strips in my builds. You could use that hammond board in a similar manner in yours, though I don't see anything like that in that original 1482 so you may be able to get by without it.

    I like to start building at the power supply and work my way through the circuit to the input jacks, that makes it easier to test as you build if you are so inclined, but I suppose you could start at the inputs if you wanted to. I do think it makes sense to start at one end and work through from one end of the schematic to the other since that will make it easier to avoid missing something, especially if you aren't gong to draw up a layout of some kind. I've done PTP layouts in DIYLC for my builds and then worked from both the layout and schematic as I build the actual amp. The nice thing about doing a layout first is that it is kind of like a practice run of the actual build so when you do the real thing you already have a good feel for how to put it together and you don't have to spend a lot of time figuring it out as you go.
     
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  7. corn husk bag

    corn husk bag TDPRI Member

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    Subscribed. One of my favorite amps!
    Thank you.
    I might just get a chassis and follow you through this thing.
     
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  8. ArcticWhite

    ArcticWhite Tele-Holic

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    That's great advice, thanks! I didn't know about DIYLC yet either. I usually just draw stuff by hand but I will check it out.
     
  9. ArcticWhite

    ArcticWhite Tele-Holic

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    I live in Portland, and I have an extra Hammond AO-29 chassis I'd let you have for 20 bucks. (I Saw you're in Washington. )
     
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  10. corn husk bag

    corn husk bag TDPRI Member

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    I have a boatload of stuff here, but thanks for the generous offer.
    Kind Regards,
    Steve
     
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  11. corn husk bag

    corn husk bag TDPRI Member

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    Will you be doing a photo based "follow along" of the build? This will be interesting if you do it "flying" point to point. Can't wait! :)
     
  12. ArcticWhite

    ArcticWhite Tele-Holic

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    Yeah, but I haven't ordered parts yet. Will do this week and then start updating as I go.
    I'm planning a cab too, probably a combo with a single 12 inch vintage AlNiCo, or a pair of 10s just to be weird.
     
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  13. ArcticWhite

    ArcticWhite Tele-Holic

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    Design Questions:
    • The 1482 uses a 6X4 rectifier, and very low value capacitors in the cap can; it's a 20/10/5.
    • My Hammond donor chassis uses a 5U4 and a 40/20/20/30 can.
    I can convert it to the 6X4 if necessary, or I can use the existing 5U4.

    Q: Does it matter which rectifier I use? If I use the 5U4 should I use a 50/50/50 setup? Or the low values that Silvertone used with the 6X4?
    Someone educate me, please
     
  14. Platefire

    Platefire Friend of Leo's

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    I personally wouldn't worry about changing the rectifier to 6X4---that's just me! I personnally don't think it's worth the ware and tare and your amps already set up for the 5U4.

    I ran into the same question on cap values when I changed the filter caps in my DIY Champ.
    After doing some research and discussion on forums, I left the small one I think 8uF on the V1 pre-amp the same. It's my understanding that too high of a cap may stiffen the feel of the pre-amp and Phase inverter response and is not particularly needed to be higher in that position. Now to the OT and screen I would move it up--So I would say 40/20/8. Platefire
     
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  15. ArcticWhite

    ArcticWhite Tele-Holic

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    Trying to get started back up on this project but the power supply has me scratching my head.
    The Silvertone uses a 6x4 rectifier and a very simple circuit design, while my Hammond donor chassis uses a 5U4 and a MUCH more complicated circuit.
    I'm gonna need help to figure out how to simplify it to work for the 1482.

    Here's the Silvertone power supply:

    20180926_225141.jpg

    And here is the Hammond. I've marked what I believe to be B+, B+2, and B+3.

    20180926_225154.jpg

    Not sure how much I can cut out. I assume I can clip this out of the way..

    20180926_224249.jpg

    Can I cut this stuff out too?
    20180926_225842.jpg

    And if so, I guess I need to replace the resistors with values to more closely mimic the B voltages of the Silvertone. I guess I need to clip the 30 ohm resistor that is first in line?
    Anyone wanna explain the math necessary to show the B+ voltage without that resistor?
    Am I doing this right?
     
  16. ArcticWhite

    ArcticWhite Tele-Holic

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    Can anyone help with this?
    I would wire it like the 6X4 power supply, but the schematic is just different for a 5U4.
    I don't want to blow this thing up.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2018
  17. Asmith

    Asmith Friend of Leo's

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    Deleted
     
  18. magic smoke

    magic smoke Tele-Meister

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    If it were my project I’d remove all of the original power supply circuitry (everything not transformer to tube socket & ct) from your donor and wire in new components to the silvertone schematic . In order to use the 5u4 in place of the 6x4, use the B+ from pin 2 or 8 (5u4) to feed the silvertone filter circuit. IME Reusing the old caps and resistors causes more headaches than it’s worth.
     
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  19. ArcticWhite

    ArcticWhite Tele-Holic

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    Yes, I'm not planning to reuse the caps or resistors. I've already stripped the donor chassis and left just the heater wiring and grounds, etc.
    My confusion is due to the pinout differences between the two rectifier tube designs.
     
  20. ArcticWhite

    ArcticWhite Tele-Holic

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    Progress is being made!

    I finished stripping out the guts, and cut about four inches of the 22 inch chassis. Used a cut-off wheel in my circular saw.

    20190605_213944.jpg

    Then I trimmed off the end plate, drilled out the rivets that held it on, and replaced them with screws.

    20190605_215139.jpg

    I should have cut the end piece off first, because I had almost nothing to hang on to. Clamped to a 4x6 and cut it.

    Smells terrible, and sounds awful. Sparks fly too. Wear safety glasses.

    20190605_214508.jpg

    Screwed it together, but not before I spent 15 minutes searching for the rivet gun I've been lugging around for 30 years or so. (Anyone seen it?)

    20190606_205956.jpg

    It's 16 inches long now.

    20190605_223733.jpg


    Did a sketch and some measurements before marking and drilling the chassis for controls.

    20190606_210627.jpg

    Pilot holes drilled. The jewel light is a bayonet style and it will interfere with the PT, so I have to move it up, off axis with the other controls, or else switch it with the tremolo controls, which aren't as deep.



    20190606_203713.jpg

    Here's a sketch of a possible cabinet setup. I'm building a 2x10 speaker cab loaded with a pair of Jensen P10R's I pulled out of an Organ a few weeks ago.

    I'm trying for a department store/Valco feel. Those Jetsons style amps were way cool Jr.

    20190606_211557.jpg
     

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