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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by pypa, Jul 22, 2020.
I don't remember that one being cherry, but there are a lot of things I don't remember!!
I worked on the headstock and access hole for the truss rod. I used a 1” bottom cleaning bit to plane down the headstock (Beware of burning with these bits) and then began the spindle sanding. I will finish that up after I cut the shape at the bandsaw.
I used a core box bit for the hole but forgot to lock the router fence down. Gouged the truss channel. Embarrassing but not the end of the world. I still had to use a chisel to get deep enough for the nut to sit flush.
My neck is 20mm and my headstock is 10mm.
this differential gives barely enough clearance for the allen nut. If I do this again I think i would just chisel out the space for the nut by hand and just drill the access hole after the fretboard is glued on. This would also allow me to preserve the center line for the fretboard glue up. I didn’t think that part thru enough...
Now that you have a rod slot, measure out from your truss rod slot in each direction from the left and right edge, as that ensures the fretboard sits centered over the rod. When I do these kinds of necks I keep one surface my reference edge and use a try square set to the centerline so I can go back and re-mark it.
In fact, I marked the centerline on the back. So I can scribe it again or measure it off my reference face (which I did mark).
I fit the neck today. I bandsawed about to the line and then used a #4 to sneak up on the fit. That was the reason I cornered off the mortise. It seemed easier than tweaking the routing template to fit the neck exactly.
I still have a little tweaking to do, but it lines up pretty well. One thing I didn’t realize is that the pickguard assumes a rounded neck pocket. So I will have to corner that as well...
I also planed off a little of the body for the arm relief. For that I used a bevel up Jack. I had to be careful about grain direction
Dang...that looks really great, my friend! It's going to be a stunning instrument. Great choice with the cherry for sure. But you already know I have an affection for cherry and walnut.
I am working on the fretboard now. My finished height above the body is about 7/16”. My fretboard is 5/16”. It feels a little high to me. What are your opinions? I am tempted to take the fretboard down to 1/4”. But should I deepen the 5/8” pocket by 1/16” too?
If you intend for this neck to be forever wed to this body, then machine them to fit together the way you want them to.
If you’re trying to maintain compatibility with the Fender standard for future neck swaps, then match their specs.
My advice is the former.
Most of my fret boards are 1/4... I'd level that.
Some folks here like the neck pocket a touch deeper as well .625 is 5/8ths but up to.650 isn't unheard of. I'd still take the fret board down as a personal choice. I've never had much luck, making a neck pocket deeper, w/out some sort of flaw .
total height of neck= 1" . Typical neck cavity depth=5/8". That means 3/8" off the body height works with the typical bridge. Stay with the standard measurements. You'll thank yourself later when you want to change something.
I agree with this. If you have your bridge hardware, you can also confirm by mocking up. My fretboards are actually shy of 1/4" after radiusing, etc., by about one mm.
Don't mess with the neck pocket. Take the 16th off the fretboard.
Interesting. I would do exactly the opposite. Guess I’m an oddball.
If the OP wants to change the neck later then the neck pocket would be out of spec.
Thank you All. I will take the fretboard down a tad AND the neck pocket down a bit. Taking the pocket down is easy: bearing guided mortising bit in the router.
If it’s ever an issue in the future, I think shimming would be easy.
I understand that completely. But my approach would be to build a new neck to fit my (out-of-spec) pocket.
Doesn’t matter anyway, as the standard Fender neck pocket and heel are ergonomic abominations that I avoid at all costs.
CTMullins, I've thought about that too. I'm a simple player, though, and don't spend a lot of time up on those frets.
I wonder why the neck pocket needs to be a simple dado. If the pocket had a stub tenon in the bottom or even if it were haunched around its shoulders, it would provide more mechanical stability which would mean you could probably taper up the body thinner under the top 5 frets and use shorter screws.
If I build another guitar, I'll try the next one through-body. My instinct is that would allow a much more grabbable upper register, but more importantly would be considerably easier to construct. No joinery. The neck taper could be entirely done on the jointer before glue up. You'd only have to band saw the body and head.
The telecaster feels to be made for assembly line production. Is that true?
Goodness, the Telecaster is literally the archetype for “mass-production guitar”. That’s why they (and all Fenders) have all of those engineering and ergonomic shortcuts.
The through-body does seem simpler, but is less forgiving. Once you make templates for a bolt-on neck they get to be pretty simple to make and readily adjustable to get the playability lined out.
I cut a test fretboard today. I used the Stew Mac Dozuki. Interestingly the Lie Nielsen tapered dovetail saw cuts a slightly undersized kerf (.021"). I have their thicker plate dovetail saw and it is awesome. LN is temporarily making saws in limited batches, so I can't get that one; they're not even taking back orders.
This Dozuki is nice. It has good heft, and the depth stop is really wonderful and self-aligning. It has a good balance between smoothness and efficiency. It did not vibrate when held against this simple bench hook.
I marked square cuts with a marking knife off the template. I tried using the miter guide I made above, but it's a pain. It’s not a deep cut so it’s easier to simply follow the knifed line. The trick, IMHO is not cutting all the way across at once, but to cut at the far corner and with each gentle stroke, decrease the angle slightly, gradually lengthening the kerf. My first cut at the not was not done this way, and there was sufficient resistance that the saw jumps around at the top edge of the kerf ever so slightly. I suspect that would not be a functional issue, but doing it on an angle makes for a more controllable, pleasant cut.
People talk about the 'tedium' of cutting the slots. But this was done in about 10 minutes. While it requires some concentration, it was quite doable.
Still looking for an excuse to order than Lie Nielsen...