Cheap Chinese Pedal Kits: Klon Clone

Discussion in 'Burnt Fingers DIY Effects' started by jimdkc, Jul 6, 2019.

  1. Urshurak776

    Urshurak776 Tele-Holic

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    Wow! Looks fantastic!
     
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  2. zippofan

    zippofan Tele-Afflicted

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    Will finish up this weekend, I’m at Boy Scout camp this week :)
     
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  3. zippofan

    zippofan Tele-Afflicted

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    Boxes are lacquered... I'll start assembling the Klone first since it has some off board parts.
     
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  4. jimdkc

    jimdkc Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Wow... Where did those 2 months go? I think I'll try to actually finish this thing!

    Next step: Wiring!

    All of the wiring gut shots I've seen of this kit are wired using a single wire color (red). Here's a gut shot from an ad for this kit:

    [​IMG]

    But, the kit came with a bunch of 4 inch Black, Red, and White wires. And, using different wire colors makes the circuit so much easier to trace! So, I figured the first thing I'd do is come up with a color code for the components that get wired to the board.

    Here's what I came up with --

    DC Power Jack Wiring Color Code:

    [​IMG]

    1/4" Jack Wiring Color Code:

    [​IMG]

    Note: The Input jack only uses the Tip and Sleeve connections. The Output jack uses all three.

    Stomp Switch Wiring:

    [​IMG]

    Note that one pole of this switch is not used. And this is not a true bypass pedal!
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2019
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  5. jimdkc

    jimdkc Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Next, following my color codes, I soldered the wires to the PCB.

    [​IMG]
    NOTE: The Red and White output wires on the left side of the board are reversed in this picture!

    And mounted the components in the case.

    Note: for the LED, I mounted the LED holder before mounting the PCB. Then I inserted the LED into its pads on the PCB and when mounting the PCB, I made sure that the LED went into the holder. Once the PCB was in place, I pushed the leads of the LED to make sure it was fully inserted into the holder. Finally, I soldered the LED to the PCB.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2019
  6. jimdkc

    jimdkc Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    So... I soldered all the wires up to their appropriate places... Hooked up a battery... and...

    NOTHING!

    I think I actually got a bad battery clip! (The one thing I didn't really test before assembly!)

    I'm going to hang up my soldering iron for now! I'll look further into this tomorrow!

    Here it is... Fully wired:

    [​IMG]
    NOTE: DON'T reference this picture when wiring! Output jack Red and White wire connections to the PCB are REVERSED!
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2019
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  7. jimilee

    jimilee Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    Klon pedals are buffered. As a matter in fact, you can put a klon buffer circuit in its own enclosure, works great.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  8. jimdkc

    jimdkc Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Note: Wrench sizes for nuts:

    Stomp Switch and Power Jack - 14mm
    Input/Output Jacks - 1/2 inch
    Pots - 10mm
    LED Mount - 8mm
     
  9. jimdkc

    jimdkc Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    OK... Pretty sure I figured out what the problem was!

    I reversed the red and white wires going from the Output Jack to the PCB. So, the negative battery connection was going to the Tip connection of the output jack (not the Ring) and the battery was never connected to the circuit!

    Now to stuff everything back into the enclosure!

    Edit: During re-assembly, I also found a bad connection to Pin 2 of the stomp switch. This is the ground connection that is switched to the LED circuit when the effect is activated (lighting the LED) in one switch position, and grounds out the clipping diodes (effectively removing the distortion/overdrive effect) in the other switch position. This is an interesting way of converting an overdrive to a buffer!
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2019
  10. jimdkc

    jimdkc Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Here's the corrected gut shot. (Note that I also changed the rotation of the In/Out jacks when reassembling. Doesn't really matter... just didn't want to confuse anyone comparing the photos!)

    [​IMG]
     
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  11. jimdkc

    jimdkc Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    And... It's working!

    Here's the final product:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2019
  12. jimdkc

    jimdkc Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Well, it does work. But I have to say, I'm not a huge fan of this effect! (I'm probably not good enough of a guitar player to really coax anything great out of it!) So, I'm really glad I didn't pay $300+ for one! For under $40 I had fun building it and I now have a new toy!

    Going to put this one on the back burner, for now, and move on to one of my other kits. I'll probably drag this out some time in the future and try swapping out the Op Amps and Clipping Diodes (I socketed them and I have a stash of Russian diodes!)

    I think I have the urge for REVERB!

    Surf's Up!!!
     
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  13. zippofan

    zippofan Tele-Afflicted

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    Great! I haven't picked up my iron lately, too much going on, but the Aion Klone is patiently waiting for me to wire and test.
     
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  14. awasson

    awasson Poster Extraordinaire Gold Supporter

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    Well, I usually DIY my own pedals but I just pulled the trigger on this one. I’ve always wanted a Klon Clone but I’ve never used one. I hope I like it.
     
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  15. nation

    nation TDPRI Member

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    This is a great thread. Thanks for posting Jim, you electronic wizards amaze me.

    This fixed my noise problem. I have a power supply which produces a mechanical generator sounding hum. It's quiet with other pedals but with this pedal the hum enters the signal path and gets amplified with the output knob. These jumpers fixed that and all is quiet now. So thanks for this.

    Just a question if I may:

    I am looking to mod this circuit to include a Baxandall Bass and Treble pot. According to instructions for this mod I need to remove the two 100k resistors that connect to the 3n9 cap coming off the treble pot (R22 and R24 according to this schematic https://www.electrosmash.com/images/tech/klon-centaur/Klon-Centaur-Schematic-Parts.png). In your schematic, it's the two 100k resistors at the 3/4 point of schematic, before the output pot. I think I have correctly translated this to the relevant resistors on the PCB but want to clarify. Is the attached image correct in terms of the resistors I need to remove:

    48214573182_ff7b33e960-2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2019
  16. jimdkc

    jimdkc Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Hey! Glad to hear that my jumpers helped! I originally planned to build mine without the jumpers, then add them later to see what difference they made, but when I was soldering the board, I decided to just use the component leads as the jumpers.

    About the location for your tone mod: You have 1 of the 100K resistors right, but the other is wrong. I've marked the correct resistors in orange on this scan, along with the line that shows the connection to the 39nF capacitor and the Tone pot (and also Pin 6 of the output-stage op amp).

    [​IMG]

    Good luck! And let us know how it works!
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2019
  17. Tele22

    Tele22 Tele-Meister

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    My Klone sounds great with every amp - except my DV-Mark FGC 121, which is solid state.
     
  18. nation

    nation TDPRI Member

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    Many thanks for pointing out the correct resistors Jim. I'll get a chance to work on this some time this week and will post my results. Thanks again.
     
  19. nation

    nation TDPRI Member

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    An update on the mods to this. None of this is my work, I got instructions from "phi1" in the following thread along with Jim's help to identify the correct resistors.

    https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/kliche-voice-switch-and-bass-knob-mods.569/

    You need to sign up to view the PDF. Well worth it if you are a paint by numbers type like me.

    In short, do this mod if you want a more versatile Kon. The Bass/Tone pot mod and the mid switch gives you extra room to play allowing you to change the treble content without affecting the mids. Also the bass pot (and the treble switch) allows the pedal to better work with different amps (i.e. more bass heavy or gainier amps) in addition to versatility. I used the OP's suggested values for components changes except for the mids switch, which after parallel calculations, gives me a 3 way 400pf/180pf/10pf. I will spend some time later experimenting with different values for the Baxandall stack.

    In addition to the above I will also experiment with diode clipping options to potentially put on a switch and different op amp options.

    My goal is a stock Klon and modded Klon and these mods gives me a good alternative Klon based pedal.
     
  20. zippofan

    zippofan Tele-Afflicted

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    And here it is after patiently waiting on my bench since August:

    Klon_top.jpg Klon guts.jpg

    When I first fired it up I had a whine in the output which I traced to the power supply, thankfully I had a spare TC1044, as the noise disappeared as soon as I swapped the chips. But my treble control isn't doing much of anything, so time for a little troubleshooting. I know the pot itself is OK, I'll have to move the board to check the other side as I couldn't find anything on the component side.

    There's plenty of gain with these alternate op-amps, and plenty of crunch with the gain up, a good cleanish boost with the gain down and output up.
     
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