Charvel Inspired Strat or Strat Inspired Charvel?

jvin248

Doctor of Teleocity
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Lions & Tigers oh Mi !
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+1 on the Relic!
If you haven't done any relic-on-purpose guitars before, it's also about the feel. So no sharp paint chips, hard metal parts edges, roll the fretboard edge, soften fret ends. And then the easy playability of good fretwork/setup/etc of course.


Looks great so far.

Just curious - did the original have a swimming pool route? I'm sure the impact on tone is negligible, but I always thought "the more wood the better".

The wood only matters for Marketing Literature and Salespeople. Look up youtube videos of 'guitar' and: cardboard, cement, colored pencils, jawbreakers, plastic, 3D printed, steel, and ceramic. Rock 'n Roll is about being a Rebel, not listening to 'the man' in Marketing telling you what you should be playing or buying.

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Captain Nutslot

Friend of Leo's
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May 3, 2012
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Location
Rochester, NY
Is it an Original Floyd Rose?

http://skyway.s3.amazonaws.com/FloydRose/FROriginalRoutingDiagramsMMPacket.pdf

You probably have seen this already. My suggestion would be to drill the two holes for the studs and insert them BEFORE you route the cavity that goes through the body. Those studs are damn close to the edge and it is really easy to crack your body when you put them in.

The other thing that comes to my mind is the depth of the spring cavity vs. the swimming pool route on top. Since you're going non-recessed, the bottom of your trem block is going to sit higher within the body. Not a problem if you have a long (42mm) block, more so if it's a short one (32mm), because the spring cavity would have to be routed deeper to accommodate for it if that makes sense?

Very cool build by the way, Floyds make me giggle every time I play a guitar equipped with one :)
The trem I was going to use is this...

https://www.guitarfetish.com/NEW-Heavy-Duty-Dual-Locking-Floyd-Rose-Trem-BRASSSTEEL_p_518.html

and would have required a recessed route on top... however I forgot to specify (if it was even an option) that I needed a 42mm string spacing at the nut, not 43mm. So it ain’t gonna work for me.
 

Captain Nutslot

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Rochester, NY
If anyone is interested in this first trem let me know.

8E1D3B12-A36C-475A-8CD8-51EE4134A282.jpeg


I picked up one of these guys...

5641E96C-FCE8-40DC-9D02-297F5FACAFB6.jpeg


I like it! And it doesn’t require a recessed route on the top.

09042EF6-C9CC-4808-A98B-1CF68F742ACD.jpeg
 

Fatcat211

Tele-Meister
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Nov 15, 2011
Posts
279
Location
Nyc
Good call on the OFR. Installed a gfs and now have a OFR. There’s something better about the construction, pivot points and geometry of the OFR.
 

Captain Nutslot

Friend of Leo's
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May 3, 2012
Posts
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Location
Rochester, NY
What's going on there???
Well the first neck, I tried to roast and it twisted up bad.

2nd one, the fretboard had dull router bit chip out when I was truing it up to the neck shape. Plus I wasn’t 100% happy with the glue up... useable but no go on this build... maybe a brotherhood build. If it fits within the rules lol

soooo trying again... I grabbed some new templates from stew Mac and I want a smaller radius router bit to match the neck pocket template... do ya know what that skinny corner is? 3/16”?
 

guitarbuilder

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Mar 30, 2003
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25,764
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Ontario County
Well the first neck, I tried to roast and it twisted up bad.

2nd one, the fretboard had dull router bit chip out when I was truing it up to the neck shape. Plus I wasn’t 100% happy with the glue up... useable but no go on this build... maybe a brotherhood build. If it fits within the rules lol

soooo trying again... I grabbed some new templates from stew Mac and I want a smaller radius router bit to match the neck pocket template... do ya know what that skinny corner is? 3/16”?


Neck pocket? .25 radius or 1/2" dia router bit.

tdowns rad.png
 
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