Car Trouble

Discussion in 'Bad Dog Cafe' started by chet again, Jul 3, 2019.

  1. Bones

    Bones Telefied Ad Free Member

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    "All of a sudden I feel the car driving a little rough. It kept doing that until I hit the exit to get some gas"

    The problem started before he refueled.
     
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  2. magicfingers99

    magicfingers99 Tele-Afflicted

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    i would in fact agree with that statement
     
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  3. chet again

    chet again Tele-Meister

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    I had gassed up earlier in the day. The problems started after I had driven about 70 miles on an interstate hiway.
    I may try the seafoam. Thanx for the tip about Sea Foam.
     
  4. chet again

    chet again Tele-Meister

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    I went to a parts store and a guy used his tester on the car and it said that cylinder #4 was misfiring. I ordered a coil from Rock Auto and will replace that along with spark plugs.

    PS: The guy from the parts store tried to sell me a coil for $141.00. I looked at Rock Auto and got one for about $28.00.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2019
  5. Mike SS

    Mike SS Poster Extraordinaire

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    Ooops. My bust.
     
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  6. chet again

    chet again Tele-Meister

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    The fuel filter option is off the table. It's in the gas tank. Why they put it there is beyond me. I watched that YouTube video of what old fuel filters look like. :eek:
     
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  7. Milspec

    Milspec Friend of Leo's

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    Jumping ahead a bit as I have to leave the house for awhile, but it sounds like you filled your tank with some bad gas. It has been happening around Omaha due to all the rain we have been getting. It happened to me just a week ago, similar thing, bought gas and 15 minutes later the car went to crap and left me standed for awhile. It wouldn't idle nor run worth a crap until I cycled the ignition about 5 times, then it ran great the rest of the 30 minute commute.

    Add some Chevron fuel cleaner or even the Lucas fuel additive (2 best products of their type) and refuel from a different gas station....it worked for me and haven't had an issue since.
     
  8. chet again

    chet again Tele-Meister

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    I gassed up in Sioux City, Iowa earlier that day. I went down to Omaha to drive around and see some old spots where I used to practice and play softball years ago.

    They're all gone.

    I was hoping to watch some softball games but t-storms hit the city.

    I'll try some additive as it certainly can't hurt.
     
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  9. Milspec

    Milspec Friend of Leo's

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    Start with the fuel and then move on to coils. I might have missed it, but what make / model is the car? Some are more prone to others for such issues.
     
  10. TeleTucson

    TeleTucson Tele-Afflicted Ad Free Member

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    I think it most likely means you need to buy another guitar.
     
  11. bftfender

    bftfender Friend of Leo's

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    i have a scanner that pulls codes also besides program car keys. Disconnect battery terminal for a bit. It will clear out & reset..sometimes a reset can adjust some fuel-ignition- sensor issues for a brief spell or even work. def would get to scan tool tho, it will identify the fault code
     
  12. Recce

    Recce Tele-Afflicted

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    The owners manual for my car says if the check engine light is flashing to stop driving the car. If it just lights up steady it is still drivable.
     
  13. Milspec

    Milspec Friend of Leo's

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    That is correct. A solid light indicates that the computer noted something out of spec, but flashing means crap is about to hit the fan.

    The problem with a lot of systems is that you can have a motor that doesn't even idle yet not trigger a single code. The codes also will not tell you specifically what is the bad component, depends on what is going on above the stream. An oxygen sensor, for example, doesn't mean that sensor is bad, just that the exhaust mixture is wrong. It could be a dozen things upstream that can cause it.
     
  14. rangercaster

    rangercaster Friend of Leo's

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    Always start with the most simple cheap repair option for the symptoms ... Don't overdiagnose or overspend ... Don't ask me how I learned this ... Good luck !!!
     
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  15. Milspec

    Milspec Friend of Leo's

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    After going back and reading the whole thread, I realized that it happened prior to fueling up and not after. That changes things a bit. How low was the fuel level when you pulled off the road? If it was below a 1/4 tank, might have debris in the filter or even at an injector. When you realize that the only thing keeping an in-tank fuel pump from burning up is the fuel it sits in, you come to understand why you never want to run the tank down below a 1/4 tank. A bad fuel pump would normally cause more trouble at start-up then running, so I lean towards the clogged injector or filter as well.

    A bad coil (or just the boot) or clogged injector sounds like the likely issue. At cruising, the loss of a cylinder isn't noticeable as it is under heavier loads around town.
     
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  16. Fretting out

    Fretting out Tele-Meister

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    Like others say it could be a host of things but I too recently had a couple coil packs going bad and , had the manifold rebuilt before we figured out the coil packs were bad, wish we would have started there first, truck behaved exactly as you described
     
  17. chet again

    chet again Tele-Meister

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    Cylinder #4 is pretty accessible without taking too much off the engine so I should be able to replace the coil pack and spark plug on it tomorrow. I'll also replace spark plug #3 cause I can get to it also.
    The car has an upstream and downstream O Sensor so I'll see how it runs with the coil pack and spark plugs in it then see if I need to troubleshoot the O-Sensors.
     
  18. Intubator

    Intubator TDPRI Member

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    Wanna know for sure? Start the car and while its idling rough as described, disconnect the harness plug connector to the suspected problem #4 coil. If there is no change in idle speed or roughness the problem is the #4 coil and/or spark plug/or combustion chamber. Wanna know if the #3 plug is affected? Do the same thing on the #3 coil harness plug. If after removing the harness plug the idle slows more or the car runs rougher, then the #3 is OK, then reconnect it and the idle will improve. Might want to test all of the coils just to make sure. Wear rubber gloves while doing this using only one hand and don't touch the car with your other hand or body part... Honestly, you might want to replace all of the coils if you plan on driving this another 100,000 miles or so.. If you see cracks on the coil bodies then they need to be replaced even if still working.
     
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  19. Intubator

    Intubator TDPRI Member

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    Disclaimer regarding my previous post: Testing of your coils could be dangerous and should be done by a professional certified mechanic, if you happen to not be one..
     
  20. Milspec

    Milspec Friend of Leo's

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    A quick word of caution here, the factory coils are expensive, but you will likely find that the after-market ones will not last very long. I've seen it many times when people change out their coils with after-market units and end up with multiple misfires withing the month. I would seriously check the boot on the factory coil (assuming it is a coil on plug) instead of replacing the coil right away. If it is cracked or shows burn marks....a new boot is like $5. It will also tell you if there is any coolant contamination around those boots from an intake gasket leak...another common cause of a single coil misfire.

    Hope it works out to be just a simple cheap solution, it sucks to chase to a problem.
     
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