I thought the Joker from a deck of cards was the traditional choice.
I stay away from shimming at all costs, however it sounds like yours is a case where it's needed. If your bridge is bottomed out your neck needs to be tilted back some.I have a question about my tele (62 reissue, made in Japan). I currently have the action set at 4/64, measured at the 12th fret, for all 6 strings. I have a modern tele bridge, with 6 individual saddles. My problem is, the saddles for the low and high E strings are practically sitting on the bridge plate! Is this normal? I can't experiment with lower action (say, on the b and e strings) because of this limitation. The picture below is the type of saddles I have. Is this normal? Dan
View attachment 900254
That's the tell tale. 62' reissue with 6 individual saddles? You must be kidding me. It's someone who put on that bridge later on, and found out the hard way that it doesn't fit with year 62s 7'5 or 9'5 radius necks...
I suggest dropping the $8+/- on the StewMac tapered wood shims. When your done you can't even really see....
I really like those StewMac shims, but man, I hate hate having to pay like $10 shipping to get a single or a couple shims. And I've had to do this and order them twice so far.
Aluminum cans make awesome shims. I’ve used them in the neck pocket, under acoustic saddles, under the nut, they’re great. And you are right- they don’t compress or deteriorate.Many are calling for shims. I'd agree with them. Someone here suggested years ago that an aluminum drink can provides stable, non-rotting or compressing shim material. Easy to shape with scissors. I've used this trick several times.
Not a good alternative unless you want your strings really close to the body, which no one does as it seriously limits your picking movement, can get strongs too close to the PU bodies, etc. Ick. Shim instead, and it sounds like you need an angled shim which is easy to do.Recess the bridge.