1. Win a Broadcaster or one of 3 Teles! The annual Supporting Member Giveaway is on. To enter Click Here. To see all the prizes and full details Click Here. To view the thread about the giveaway Click Here.

Can You Add An LED To a Crybaby "Classic" Model?

Discussion in 'The Stomp Box' started by NCSUZoSo, Jan 19, 2014.

  1. NCSUZoSo

    NCSUZoSo Tele-Meister

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    123
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2013
    Location:
    North Carolina
    I opened up my Crybaby Classic to see how the switch was wired and the thing has a damn ribbon on it... However there is a peculiar spot on the board right next to where the ribbon connects to the main PCB that says "D3", but there is nothing there. I think this is an LED can be directly soldered in with no fuss like the plain CryBaby. Take a look at these pictures and tell me what you think, I could be wrong, but my first instinct was, "I bet it goes right there".

    It is in this first picture directly above the ribbon on the right corner:

    [​IMG]


    Here is a picture of the switch, it looks very different from the 3PDT switches you are used to seeing in pedals. However you should be able to still tap off of it just like a normal one right? (in the case you can't just solder an LED to "D3"):


    [​IMG]


    and the Fasel Inductor (You can also see a "D2" at the very bottom right corner of the PCB):

    [​IMG]

    I noticed you can get different colored Fasel Inductors online, is there a big difference from one to the next? If there was, it wouldn't be that hard to wire it up where you had two wired in with a switch to go between them.
     
  2. pryde

    pryde Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    255
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    illinois
    That is actually a DPDT switch so can't use that for LED switching.
     
  3. NCSUZoSo

    NCSUZoSo Tele-Meister

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    123
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2013
    Location:
    North Carolina
    damn, you are right.

    Can I remove the ribbon cable and wire in a 3PDT?

    Well the real question is if I can use D2 or D3 for the LED first before I would bother with a 3PDT. I'll find out when I get my BYOC 5 Knob Compressor in tomorrow and I'll check the LED. There is no way touching the leads (in the right orientation) can hurt anything right?

    Surely someone has put an LED in a "Classic" Crybaby before.
     
  4. Rich_S

    Rich_S Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

    Posts:
    4,994
    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2006
    Location:
    Potsdam, NY
    This will help: http://www.seymourduncan.com/forum/showthread.php?163129-By-Request-How-to-Add-an-LED-to-Your-Wah

    Scroll down to find the posts about a 535Q. That empty hole you're looking at probably won't work, since the pedal is also missing the 3PDT (or maybe on-board Millennium Bypass circuitry) to make it work.

    Your best bet is to replace the DPDT and its board with a 3DPT, then either slice or replace the ribbon cable put the audio wires back to rights. Then, add LED wiring per my Duncan thread.
     
  5. steveneddy

    steveneddy Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    235
    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2012
    Location:
    Texas
  6. NCSUZoSo

    NCSUZoSo Tele-Meister

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    123
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2013
    Location:
    North Carolina
    So far all of those links are either on the Original Crybaby (not the Classic) or they have people asking, with no answers.
     
  7. Iago

    Iago Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    2,120
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2006
    Location:
    Brazil
    Yes you can add an LED. it makes no difference if its's the standard version or the classic. But let me ask you why? Wah effects are so obvious you don't really need one to tell it's on or off... it's not like a compressor or a boost pedal...

    Considering you don't want to make your wah true-bypass, just do as Rich S say, unsolder the DPDT, install a 3PDT - you may use a small pcb for it or not - but most importantly, make sure you check what is the purpose of each wire that will be soldered to it. One of the footswitch lugs will be available for that LED.
     
  8. NCSUZoSo

    NCSUZoSo Tele-Meister

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    123
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2013
    Location:
    North Carolina
    It already is true bypass, look up the specs on the "Classic" CryBaby Model:

    http://www.jimdunlop.com/blog/what-you-need-to-know-about-true-bypassing/

    at the bottom there is a document and the Classic Crybaby model with the Fasel Inductor is listed with a T which means True Hardwire Bypass.


    So Dunlop explains why they are using a DPDT switch for True Bypass, but it seems like there is no way around buying a 3DPT in order to use an LED. My question is how that ribbon cable is going to interact with a 3PDT once I remove it and I am left with a row of holes as seen in my pictures.
     
  9. steveneddy

    steveneddy Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    235
    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2012
    Location:
    Texas
    You will have to change the switch to add an LED to the pedal.

    An observant individual with a slight bit of experience should be able to pull this off with no problems.
     
  10. NCSUZoSo

    NCSUZoSo Tele-Meister

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    123
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2013
    Location:
    North Carolina
    I realize if you change the switch it can be done, I was wondering if you did not change the switch if there was an unused part of the circuit. For example the 535Q has a very similar base PCB, as you can see here in this picture of current production model (and has plenty of mods added to the PCB):

    [​IMG]


    Unless it is possible I think I am just going to look on to more important things, like the Whipple Halo Inductor I just got to replace the stock Red Fasel.
     
  11. NCSUZoSo

    NCSUZoSo Tele-Meister

    Age:
    33
    Posts:
    123
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2013
    Location:
    North Carolina
    My question about LED is answered on this page a little further than half way down:

    http://guitarampboard.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=8371


    1. Remove the input- and outputbus nuts using a #13 wrench.
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/1.JPG
    2. Remove the 2 PCB screws.
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/2.JPG
    3. Remove the pressurepole that holds pressure ont the gearwheel
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/3.JPG
    4. Remove the chrome domeknob with a small hex key and losen the slector switch with a #13 wrench.
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/4.JPG
    5. Loosen the nut on the geared potentiometer with a #13 wrench and CAREFULLY. Lift it out. In the new revision of the PCB the small PCB of the potentiometer is partially attached to the main PCB! Also remember how the washers are attached so you know how to reassemble the potentiometer (usually it is gear >washer >housing> washer with "teeth" as you can see in the picture)
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/5A.JPG
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/5B.JPG
    6. Remove the Original DPDT switch using a #15 wrench
    7. Now it is time to mark the ribon on the DPDT pcb so you know left from right (jus in case). Remember the numbering I added to the picture because we will be using it later.
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLE ... SWITCH.JPG
    8. You can now remove the main PCB (and all attached PCB's) from the casing and turn it around.
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/8.JPG
    9. Solder 2 wires to the left most +9V and the ground next to it. See images. I also indicated how the battery is connected for you.
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/9A.JPG
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/9B.JPG
    10. Now cut the ribbon wire as close to the footswitch PCB as possible. Strip wires 1,2,3 and 4 for soldering and isolate wires 5 and 6 so they will not connect to each other or the casing.
    11. In the meantime drill your LED hole and place the LED and the new 3PDT footswitch in the casing.
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/11.JPG
    12. Now it is time to start soldering the new footswitch. I am using a 1k5 resistor for the LED. You can use others if you want, but typically 1k5 is used for all types LED's. If you are a purist you can calculate the exact resistor by this formula Rx=(U-Uo)/Io. For a red 5mm LED (operating at 2.2V) with a 9V operated effect which typically uses 20mA this will be 340R since Rx=(9-2.2)/0.02=340R (green,blue and white use approx. 280R).

    The short leg (Cathode) of the LED is soldered to the black ground cable comming from the main PCB. Solder the center lug of the 3PDT to the long leg (Anode) of the LED. Solder the resistor to the top middle lug of the 3PDT and connect the red +9V cable comming from the main PCB to it. Use shrinksleeves as much as possible the prevent any contact to the metal housing of the wah.
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/12.JPG
    13. Now we will look at how the rest of the 3PDT is soldered. In step 10 I numbered the wires from the ribbon cable so look there for reference to the numbers.
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/connect.JPG
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/13.JPG
    14. Test if it works and reassemble. Enjoy the mod!
    http://www.guitarmodwiki.com/pub/535QLEDMOD/14.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2014
  12. denkyuu

    denkyuu NEW MEMBER!

    Age:
    30
    Posts:
    1
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2016
    Location:
    Athens, Ga
    Sorry to resurrect an ancient thread, but I'm trying to swap out the switch on my CB mini, which has a really similar board, and possibly identical switch pcb. I'm having trouble making head or tail of the ribbon and which lugs each one connects to.

    Your guide looks perfect, NCSUZoSo, but apparently guitarmodwiki.com has gone under, so all the images are gone! Do you still have them around?
     
  13. Beatbx

    Beatbx Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    427
    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2004
    Location:
    Eugene, OR
    I have a wah that had been modded with a 3pdt switch and led when I bought it. I liked having the led but the typical blue 3pdt switch used was very finicky in the wah. I'd typically have to double stomp just to get the thing to work, annoying. I eventually swapped it out for a Carling 2pdt switch, foregoing the led and no longer have that problem.
     
IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.