Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by klobasa, Feb 13, 2014.
Doesn't a finger joint allow the wood to breathe ?
The quality of wood work that was performed with simple hand tools before the invention of electricity is amazing. Finger joints and dovetails can be easily constructed with a hand saw and chisel.
Sure one is able to do everything by hand and have fantastic results, but I don't see the point when those nice joints are covered with tolex and doing reinforced butt joints can be super sturdy and are a lot faster to do (if we are comparing butt joints vs. handmade finger joints).
If I would be doing cabs purely for sale, I would of course use fingerjoints. At the moment I'm doing cabs for my own use at home without workspace and without almost any electric tools. I want to save trouble and time by doing things the easier way if that don't compromise the tone and sturdiness of the cab.
I love guys like that.
Skills, integrity, humbleness. A total bada$$.
I need a better chisel.
Finger joints for improving the sound would be a tough sell. It's not the reason finger joints are used.
I've seen many failed Fender cabinets (finger joints). I noticed my Matchless had butt joints (I was surprised too) when I had it recovered. Very heavy, large, steel chassis in those and haven't seen one fail.
Material, dimensions, baffle = 90% sound. I would rate hardware higher than joint style for sound, because some hardware rattles when you turn the volume up. Use ample glue on any joint and you should be good. Put a cleat on the inside corners and no one will know. They also provide more surface area for glue where you want it most.
Wow, this is a surprise. I remember reading somewhere on internet about a Matchless amp which had fallen out of truck and somehow dragged against the road for miles and miles. It was in one piece, but had quite a lot of road rash Would like to see that thread again...
EDIT: Found it. http://www.rig-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=31236
Or maybe some quality stones to keep them sharp.
Seriously, a lot can be accomplished with a few good quality hand tools. IMO, for DIY projects, hand crafted joints add a craftsman type quality to the project/experience, especially if quality wood is used and the work is left uncovered.
Just tape a bunch of hack saw blades together and you won't need the chisel.
I've done butt joints for stupid many years, mostly in plywood, and finally bought a dovetail jig and the parts for fingerjoints. Going on two years and I still haven't used it.
There should be some kind of therapy group for people who won't do what they know they should do and want cosigners for their procrastination.
There's not much wrong with butt joints for a not quite as good cab if you don't mind spending the extra time and fudging a bit.
However, I would avoid gluing or screwing cleats cross grain on solid wood, as the wood will expand and contract over the years and crack the glue, tear the grain, loosen the screws, and even loosen or crack the wood around dowels.
Bearing in mind that I'm a woodworker and have truckloads of tools (and amp cabs), clearly I need to play more guitar more perfectly more than I need to make more cabs more perfectly.
i've owned a couple fender designs with butt joints. my bassman 100's original head cabinet was butt jointed... and still built like a tank. and i can't remember for sure or not, but i think the giant 4x12 cab that came with it was also butt jointed. like said before, butt joints can work fine when done correctly. all of the side-to-side movement that can destroy a butt joint is effectively stopped by the speaker baffle and back cover, if fitted properly.
that being said, i've switched to finger joints for aesthetic reasons as well.
Splines sound best when you can actually see them.
Tolex ruins the tone.
He did that so fast and simply. My attempt at a rabbet joint with power tools did not come out as nice as that.