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building a super-light cab: what wood?

Discussion in 'Amp Central Station' started by Jupiter, Feb 23, 2020.

  1. Whatizitman

    Whatizitman Friend of Leo's

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    Yeah, I did have some warping. I used standard butt joints, and had to twist it a bit to get it lined up. It sits better on carpet, than hard floor. :D

    I've used ply for baffles. I see no reason to use MDF unless it's the only thing available. MDF and particle board can only take so much cutting and drilling before it crumbles. And unless it's covered well with paint or tolex, it does NOT like any moisture.
     
  2. Guitarteach

    Guitarteach Doctor of Teleocity

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    I put an angled baffle in one of mine. About 15deg. Its a neat idea.

    Saves tilting or raising the cab.

    All mine have been open backed. Nice and airy, fills the room.
     
  3. Whatizitman

    Whatizitman Friend of Leo's

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    Closed cabs are more directional. Open back spreads more. Generally, closed back emphasizes low frequencies a bit, which may or may not be desirable.

    Feel free to do calculations..... But really here's the thing to consider from a non-engineering perspective (from a non-engineer :D). Closed back does take into account more calculations due to reflections inside the cab. Open back has less. What open back does have, however, is depth. The more depth, the more low end is emphasized and/or preserved.

    But really, unless you are planning on playing bass through the cab, you really don't need to put as much math into it. Guitar is mid-range instrument.

    If it's your first cab build, save your sanity and make it open back. But it's also not hard to make a removable back, to compare for yourself.

    Find some specs of popular cab builds. They are all over the internet. No need to reinvent the wheel.

    EDIT. Oh, I just saw the numbers you posted. They are very similar to mine. You will be happy with those numbers. Between 10-11 inches depth is perfect, IMO.
     
  4. ponce

    ponce Tele-Afflicted

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    Beech of my region is pretty heavy.
     
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  5. Bendyha

    Bendyha Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    I can't remember which cab building company it was, but I recall their using a technique like cavity guitars, where they routed out channels in all the major expanses of the cabs sides, top and bottom, where stability was not as needed as by the joints and edges/corners. It is a bit more work, but if your priorities is wanting minimum weight at no great loss of stability, then using poplar plywood and scolloping it out, could be the way to go.
     
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  6. homesick345

    homesick345 Poster Extraordinaire

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    I did exactly this; with a JDesign light pine cab, & a lil texas

    It came to around 15lbs in all I think it's stunningly light

    Edit: and it's not a micro cab neither: 23" wide; 11" deep; etc... good dimensions
     
  7. trapdoor2

    trapdoor2 Tele-Afflicted Gold Supporter

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    For how this build sounds, I'd go cheap protection. If you have a big-box hardware store handy, they sell plastic "corner guards" (nominally for protecting the corners of walls in the house). Glue those along every edge to protect from bumps and bruises...they take paint well too. Get some rubber feet and a carry handle while you're there.

    Re: joints. Unless you plan on tossing this thing about, there is no real need to worry about end grain. Yah, your joint plan is stronger (and marginally prettier, no exterior screws showing)...but how much strength do you really need?

    I like open back because I can store stuff in there. My old earballbones can't hear the difference, might as well get some use out of an otherwise mostly empty box...:rolleyes:
     
  8. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    Generally northern pine is a good value and light weight. NOT southern Yellow Pine though! Heavy.
    Paulonia will likely be the lightest, but it's too fragile if you ask me.... like balsa!
    I built this 4 x 10 years ago out of a specialty Marine Plywood ($200 a sheet) that is balsa 5/8 core and a veneer of 1/16 on each side for a total of 3/4" thick material. It's weighs nothing! Literally, I doubt the whole cab weighs 10#. I saw kerfed the corners part way through, filled with expanding glue and then bent them 90 degrees until the glue set. I never did use it, been sitting.
    [​IMG]
     
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  9. maxvintage

    maxvintage Friend of Leo's

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    The 1x pine stock at home depot is extremely light--lighter than plywood, in my experience. It is very soft, typically, but if you cover it you hide a lot of dents
     
  10. OldDude2

    OldDude2 Tele-Afflicted

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    What happened to the Amazon option?

    Excluding me you have a lot of experts trying to help you but due to weight variances inherent in wood what we suggest is subjective and can only estimate what you'll actually find there.

    How much does my duck weigh? I don't know he's an average duck of good breeding:rolleyes:
     
  11. Rufus

    Rufus Tele-Afflicted

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    I'm cornfused...
     
  12. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Just 9 lbs. Picked out light pine. I did route in box joints for the sides. I did add the top and bottom strips the plywood baffle attaches to. Go with what is cheap and light. Once together it will not warp much and if it does who cares. When I was a kid I picked up a 2x12 enclosure that was home made, rickety as hell but light weight. The panels vibrated on their own, thought it was bad at the time but that was with the idea that the speaker was the only thing that vibrated. As instrument boxes, having them contribute to the sound is not necessarily a bad thing. I have some lightweight 10's for the cab, 50's alnico magnets. With some tricks, a 6V6 20W Bassman, maybe 30 lb's.

    [​IMG]

    Oh yeah, cut a slant into the cab after the picture. think 3/8" baffle.
     
  13. BigDaddyLH

    BigDaddyLH Tele Axpert Ad Free Member

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    Thinking out of the box, Acoustic Image doesn't use wood.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. tubelectron

    tubelectron Tele-Afflicted

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    I use 15mm navy Oukoume plywood from the French brand Rougier-Ocean-Landex. Very consistent quality and lightweight :

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    But it's me, OK ? :D

    -tbln
     
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  15. BigDaddyLH

    BigDaddyLH Tele Axpert Ad Free Member

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    Another out-of-the-box design: TOOBS. Those crazy Finns!

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

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    What are ya doin to me BD? lol

    Those are gorgeous!
     
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  17. bftfender

    bftfender Poster Extraordinaire

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    strangely these homemade ones are on 60% of the recordings, I used Rustoleum 4x coating, and can spray em any color ya want or touch up with quick spray...they are light but sound so good..made em 12" deep.it's finish grade ply...no boxy sound..my jensens sound fantastic in it along with most others...jenesens sound so much fuller & dont fart out in this set up. Just used em today for a song Ephrata Borough-20160312-00707.jpg Ephrata Borough-20160329-00733.jpg Monkey GoldT.jpg
     
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  18. dkmw

    dkmw Poster Extraordinaire

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    Any of you guys ever used Baltek or similar end-grain balsa/veneer panels? Widely used in marine and aerospace, stronger than dirt and very light.
     
  19. LudwigvonBirk

    LudwigvonBirk Tele-Holic

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    Hinoki is awesome to work with. I’ve brought ultra primo Sitka Spruce and Yellow Cedar classic tops to Japan, hunted around Tokyo/Yokoh and eventually swapped it for Hinoki, and iirc “Ho”(beech-like), and some cool rasps. I made some palm handles for my Sloane planes and a little “shoji lampshade” out of the Hinoki. Since you appear to be in Japan I’d totally try Hinkoki especially if you can find unlaminated stock (it doesn’t need to be perfectly quartersawn, just straight and no huge knots).

    *The Hinoki and Ho (sp) I got in trade was one nice 10”x 2’ x ~3/4” clear board and a box full of turning blanks and mallet-sized chunks, plus 2 rasps. Fair deal I thought. Zero customs hassles either way.
     
  20. homesick345

    homesick345 Poster Extraordinaire

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    wow you make these?
     
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