Building a cabinet . . .

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dean

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I've started getting pieces and parts together for my 5f11 Vibrolux build-up - the kit has been ordered, I've got the wood for the cabinet, I'm ready to order the tweed cloth, and I'm sorting through my tools to make sure I have what I need. One item I don't have is a box joint jig to cut the edges of the cabinet boards. The amp will not necessarily be a spot-on replica, but I hope it will look appropriate when I get finished. I'm wondering if the box joints are necessary for the cabinet? I know that the original tweed-era cabs were box jointed but that later cabs were butt jointed. Rather that spending the $$ on a jig, I thought I might use something like doweled lap joint for putting the box together and put the savings toward a better speaker. Do any of you have experiences, opinions, or recommendations that might help me here? I've included a basic illustration of the lap joint (minus the dowels). I could use some advice.
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schmee

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A rabbet joint is fine. Even a butted joint with good glue and screws or nails. Not as durable for sure, but if it's not a road warrior... .
I have used serrated nails (the kind that come in colors for wood paneling, they wont loosen) to repair old Fender rabbet joints..
Epoxy glue is nice if done that way.
 
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Urshurak776

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Lap joints are super easy (assuming you have a table saw?)

after assembly, use three dowels across the top sides and bottom sides. It will be plenty strong and once you tweed them, nobody will ever know.
 

Peegoo

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A glued joint is super strong when done correctly. A simple way to make a pine cab is to use butt joints or rabbet joints and glue. Use screws to temporarily hold it all together while the glue sets overnight, and then remove the screws. Nails are a no-go because unless you carefully place them, you'll strike them with the router's cutter when doing the round-over and damage the cutter or even the work.

Glue and clamps are the way to go for a simple build. You can even install short cleats in the inside corners for added strength.

Here's a breakdown of the top, bottom, sides, and sometimes the chassis board that's used.

Combo-Cabinet-Construction.jpg
 

Mongo Park

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You can make your own finger joint jig. For a one off it is probably a lot of work. And needs a router or tablesaw.
Yes I have a bassman 10 and it weights a ton and it does not have finger joints and the cab is solid. When I lift it my mind always asks why the top does not just pull off.
 

dean

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Thanks for the advice - I appreciate it!
You can make your own finger joint jig. For a one off it is probably a lot of work. And needs a router or tablesaw.
I have a small router table and plan on using that for the cabinet. I checked on the homemade jigs and may go that route. I have the time to do these little ancillary projects, since I’m still mostly locking down. I’ll probably take a few pics of the project as I go along and post them for some critiquing. Thanks again!
 

jmp81sc

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I find the box joints to be a little fiddly, but the look great on wood cabs. If covering with tolex or tweed I wouldn't bother.
 

Mongo Park

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You can make the fingers big and it is less work. The bee box amps have big finger joints on them. It is about glue surface area on non end grain. Spall finger joints are overkill. As mentioned other joints do the job. Go with what you and your tool set works best.
 

Lowerleftcoast

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I have used screws to pull the joint tight. You can put a couple of dowels in at this point as well. When the glue has dried remove the screws. Drill the screw holes out and glue dowels in their place.

No screws to mess with the round-over bit.;)

Tip: Make a right angle clamping jig.

Look up *right angle clamping jig* on youtube.
 

Nickfl

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I've done cabinets with finger joints, half blind dovetails, rabbet joints, and doweled butt joints. All of them work fine. The doweled butt joints were my least favorite just because they are the weakest and still kind of time consuming to get right, while also being the least impressive joint to the 1% of people who will notice or care. For a while, rabbet joints were my go to if they weren't going to be visible, but now I prefer the half blind dovetails because they are the best of all worlds, strong, nice looking, and very quick with a jig. I would only do finger joints if it is very important to you that the cabinet be perfectly vintage accurate, finger joints are a lot of work and a huge PITA to get just right IME.
 

D_Malone

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I find the box joints to be a little fiddly, but the look great on wood cabs. If covering with tolex or tweed I wouldn't bother.
This. People make such a big deal about box joints, or dovetails.

Rabbets, dados, dowels, all plenty strong if done right.
 

FenderLover

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When I recovered my Matchless, I was surprised to see simple butt joints with internal blocks. Lots of glue area, plenty strong, easy construction.
 

dean

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After reading all these suggestions and watching about 20 videos on Youtube, I decided to try a homemade jig for my router. I figured if I was going to do a cabinet, I'd be doing a lot of routing anyway. The biggest issue I have is that I really can't do the routing in my basement - it's too dang messy. So my next purchase will be a garage heater that will get the temps above 7 degrees here in St. Paul and a B&D Workmate to do the sawing and to put the router on. If my test runs don't work, well then I'm out a few pieces of scrap wood, a few screws and an hour of my life. I can use a different style joint if this ends in utter failure. I believe the box cuts are 1/2" on the amp cabs - right? That's how I have it set up. I've attached a pic of the setup (still have one slot to cut). I'll post the results of my tests in a couple days. Again, thanks for the assistance!

IMG_3953.jpeg
 
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