Buckeye burl and Mahogany set-neck bass

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by lbridenstine, May 23, 2013.

  1. LightninMike

    LightninMike Tele-Holic

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    what about doing false f-holes and use the white separation wood in there?
    just do a light route and do an inlay
     
  2. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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    Do you mean not make it semi-hollow, but make it look like it is? I want it to be semi-hollow, this wood is probably like 20 lbs right now, plus I don't have a semi-hollow, so it'd be nice to have. I am thinking about doing white binding around the holes though.
     
  3. TeleSky

    TeleSky Tele-Holic

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    Definitely should be semi-hollow. I think a white binding around the edges would look great too. I've never played a fretless guitar, so I can't speak on that, but what about a fan fretted guitar? That would be pretty cool too. I love the wood selection as well!
     
  4. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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    I am not good enough to play fanned frets. :) Maybe someday I can make one for a friend or something.
     
  5. orangedrop

    orangedrop Friend of Leo's

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    Nice job on the repair!
    Looks like you are well under way to getting that ready to play.

    Thanks for the fall color shots, you certainly have a lot of maple up there.

    Any brook trout in that river?

    Daydreaming here!

    Fretless guitar yeah, cool!

    Always wonder if it might be possible to learn to slide from chord to chord while keeping as many notes ringing, like a pedal steel can, that would be wild sounding.

    Cool builds you have going, thank you for posting!
     
  6. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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    We have a ton of maple up here, and yet it's expensive to buy maple wood. It looks really nice in the fall though!

    According to this, there are brook trout in the Tahquamenon river. http://www.gameandfishmag.com/2011/07/11/top-spots-for-michigan-river-fishing/

    A guy I know (one of my old band's used to play shows with his band) told me he converted one of his guitars to a fretless and that he can do some really crazy stuff on it that he can't do with a fretted guitar. Makes me tempted to do it, but at the same time, chords could be hard to hold in tune. I'm guessing that playing this fretless bass might convince me one way or the other on the guitar. I'm guessing it might tell me to go for it.
     
  7. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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  8. TeleSky

    TeleSky Tele-Holic

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    Wow, that fretless sounds just as incredible as it looks. I say go for it, it will give you another versatile option.
     
  9. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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    I added another link up there of a different one that's even more beautiful. They're both semi-hollows too. And I like the idea of a single pickup instead of two. I'll take that into consideration.
     
  10. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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    Three coats of wipe-on poly!

    [​IMG]

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    I'm not really sure if it needs any more. I'll see how it looks tomorrow.
     
  11. Shawn B

    Shawn B TDPRI Member

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    Man, that is dead sexy... Nice work!

    Out of curiosity, why such a hard transition at the heel? I look at that (pre-finish) and my hands itch to grab a rasp and smooth the transition from neck to body so there's no hard line... LOL
     
  12. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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    There wasn't a hard line, it looked like this.

    [​IMG]

    There's a line now because I accidentally sanded through the finish on my first go at wet-sanding and had to sand the back flat and re-do it, then it was a mess and I had to sand it and do it again, so unfortunately, that flattened out my carve and roundover.
     
  13. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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    Okay, here's how it looks now. The poly doesn't smell anymore, so that was fast. I'm not going to wet sand until at least Friday, but I think it's cured now.

    [​IMG]

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    And I put mirror coat epoxy in the cavity. I used painters tape and cork plugs to keep the holes from getting filled in/spilled through. So far, it looks like it's working good!

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    Here's the epoxy. I poured it in, then spread it around a little with some chopsticks, and it leveled itself out really quickly from there. No bubbles either.

    [​IMG]

    It says it takes 36-72 hours to cure, so I'll just let that sit until I have time to wet sand the poly.
     
  14. thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Looks great! Does that wipe on poly build fairly well?
     
  15. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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    Yep. Once the wood stops soaking finish in (I didn't use the wipe-on during that part), it builds up fast. It says to do 1 thin coat, let dry for 3-4 hours, sand 220 or higher and repeat. (I did not sand with 220! That idea scares me.) I did 4 coats of wipe on poly on top of the spray poly on front and tru-oil on the back and I'm fairly confident that I don't need any more than that and it cured within like 2 days.
     
  16. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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    Update on the guitar design:

    [​IMG]

    I changed the headstock and f-hole shapes, probably moved the knobs, and added string ferrules.

    I've decided (as of now anyway), white veneer between everything that's being glued (LMII has some, so I'll get that), white binding inside the f-holes, I think white pickups and white veneer lines marking the fret placement on the top edge of the fretboard, but unlined other than that, fretless, black bridge and tuners, paua abalone side dots.
     
  17. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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    Yesterday I took out the cork/tape. It came out surprisingly easy except there was the edge of a strip of painters tape in the epoxy next to the pickup wire channel.

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    I was cutting the tape out of the epoxy (I got that done, no pictures) and I decided what better way to spend Halloween than to start wet-sanding the bass?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    It's going much smoother this time, but there are still shiny spots. I just did 1000 grit so far, I was going to start with 800 but I didn't have any left that looked usable. I'll probably work on this more tomorrow.
     
  18. lbridenstine

    lbridenstine Friend of Leo's

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    Craaaaaap.

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    I don’t know what happened, but I just noticed that the edge of the burl is gone in this spot. What should I do? Fill it with superglue, then another layer of poly?
     
  19. orangedrop

    orangedrop Friend of Leo's

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    Is that where the neck flys over the top of the body by the upper horn?

    Did a sander carve a rebate under the fingerboard?

    You could carefully score a straight line on the top and take a hunk of mahogany, cut it to fit the straight line on top and shape it to fit the free form area over the body.

    If you want to get really serious about it, you could clean up the void, make a cast of the hole and use a pantograph fitted with a small ball end mill to make a plug.:D
     
  20. crazygtr

    crazygtr TDPRI Member

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    Just build some C/A layers until a little "overfilled" and sand and buff like it isn't there.
     
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