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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by 1bad914, Apr 24, 2020.
Wow - simply wow!
Dave, So glad to see you posting. Welcome back brother. May your recovery be fast and as painless as can be.
2 tips that were shared with me . Keep your lower bout tone bars non parallel . If you voice your top and back , try to keep them a half tone off . This will help prevent wolf notes .
Interesting concept. It would effect the movement of the top, thus effectively changing the tone. Closer together at the outer edge would allow more movement causing a bassier tone, the other way would stiffen it more causing a tighter higher tone. I might try it. I normally glue the top on the sides and then tap tune the top via adjustment of the scallops. I leave most braces slightly fat to accommodate this method of tuning. Easy to remove wood, tough to add it.
I've never seen a wood stretcher . Some use a single lower bout tone bar .
This is my first OM. I will most likely build another one. As for now I will follow the plans. Thank you for the input. Gives me food for thought.
The OM is one of the most popular models and there are many variations on bracing schemes. You will be fine. I've built two of them, the last one ended up pretty much like yours and it is a great guitar
Top bracing is done. I have some clean up to do yet, but basically done. The back bracing is in the works. I should glue the top on soon.
Kind of forgot the bridge plate. Lol
The next step is to fit the top on the sides. The braces extend over the sides with this style of bracing. You have to cut notches out of the sides to accept the braces. Center the top, Mark the brace locations and notch them. I use a very fine saw to cut the edge of the notch and then carefully chisel out the notch. A tiny bit at a time, checking over and over until the top sits flush. If you go to far you can cut the notch to deep and the binding may not cover the notch. Slow and steady.
Lookin' good. Another way to do the notches is to first make sure the ends of the braces are all the same height. When I scallop I put a piece of wood on each side of the end of the brace and chisel down to that height - its arbitrary but lets say a piece of side at 0.060. Then I put a router base on my dremel and set the depth of cut for a small bit to be the same as that piece of wood. Put the top/back in place, mark the brace crossings and route little pockets for the ends. For some crazy reason I started by making them pockets even tho I know I'll be routing the side wood away when I do the binding. Its a satisfying sound when they all snap into place.
Good idea. I will try that on the back.
Pictures at post 56 and 57
Started dry clamping the top today. Spent and hour fine tuning the fit and neck angle. I think I am okay.
The top is on!
Love it. Great to see an acoustic in the hood builds!
I cut the excess off the top today. Very sad day, I pulled out my trust Ryobi trim router, loaded a bit and gave it a spin with my hand. Wait a sec, was that a wobble. Sure enough, the shaft on the router has bent some how. I tried a couple of bits and they wobbled also. I guess I need a new Bosch Colt. I ended up using my jumbo plunge router. It did a great job. I did have one minor tear out that is fine since I am installing perfling and binding.