Bridge Plate Fit

Ronkirn

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the bridge needs a separate gourd UNLESS the pickup has a metal base plate that is grounded.. the electronics achiever ground continuity through the connection to the baseplate, through the mounting screws ..

r
 

Boreas

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So I got the “twist” out of the plate, and it is as flat as I can get it, according to my known flat surface. When I put it in place, with pickup installed, it lays flat.

However… when I run the bare bit of wire up under the bridge to ground it to the tone pot, it screws it all up, front lip comes up, etc.

Am I just being an idiot somewhere here? The bridge plate needs to be grounded, right? I can’t believe how’s much it’s throwing things off.

You must be getting some insulation under there. Or the exposed wire is rounded. Flatten it out a little.

If that wire is making a difference, I believe you should consider the shim I mentioned. You just aren't getting any downforce. I suspect the wood may be distorted under the attachment points. But again, you will get more downforce once it is strung up. I guess you will find out.
 

WrayGun

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You must be getting some insulation under there. Or the exposed wire is rounded. Flatten it out a little.

If that wire is making a difference, I believe you should consider the shim I mentioned. You just aren't getting any downforce. I suspect the wood may be distorted under the attachment points. But again, you will get more downforce once it is strung up. I guess you will find out.

How would you place the shim? With the mounting screws running through it? There’s not a lot of room between the string-through holes and the mounting holes.
 

Boreas

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How would you place the shim? With the mounting screws running through it? There’s not a lot of room between the string-through holes and the mounting holes.

I would probably try to put something even behind the string-thru holes. A very thin shim or wedge if you will. You might even be able to run a thin line of epoxy along the back edge of the bridge and let it harden. Anything that makes the bridge rock forward when the screws are tightened. It wouldn't take much. But again, the strings should provide some down-force so it may not be needed once they are tuned to pitch.
 

old_picker

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I used a Glendale bridge on a build once as it was supplied by the customer - it was warped - so much for glendale - I pinned the little sucker at the front corners with tuner screws as outlined above. Pretty much use Gotoh exclusively these days and occasionally wilkinson [wilki saddles go in the bin] and never see anything like this
 

crazydave911

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I used a Glendale bridge on a build once as it was supplied by the customer - it was warped - so much for glendale - I pinned the little sucker at the front corners with tuner screws as outlined above. Pretty much use Gotoh exclusively these days and occasionally wilkinson [wilki saddles go in the bin] and never see anything like this
I find the Wilkinson compensated saddles very good but hey, takes all kinds
 

old wrench

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Ground your Tele bridge plate the nice and clean modern way :)



Get a #6 or #8 ring terminal and crimp and solder it to the end or your ground wire, and then slip the ring over one of the bridge pickup mounting screws before you run the the screw into the pickup's base plate.

OR - simply strip off enough insulation from the ground wire to make a small loop that will slip over the pickup mounting screw.

After you form the loop in the end of the ground wire, heat it and apply just enough solder to make a "ring" or washer.

The rubber tubing or spring (whichever you use) ensures that the ring maintains contact and provides the ground

I've been doing this for years, and it always works.



I know of at least one pickup builder who supplies a ground wire made up in just this fashion with his Tele bridge pickups, too - Rob DiStefano ;)


.
 

Freeman Keller

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I used a Glendale bridge on a build once as it was supplied by the customer - it was warped - so much for glendale - I pinned the little sucker at the front corners with tuner screws as outlined above. Pretty much use Gotoh exclusively these days and occasionally wilkinson [wilki saddles go in the bin] and never see anything like this

I also used one that was supplied by the guitar owner. My reaction was that it was over priced and not very good quality. It seemed like all the hype was that it was made to look old. I used it, the guitar came out fine, but I sure wouldn't buy another.

As far as grounding the bridge, I have always just run a piece of wire out thru the top, stripped it and let the bridge push it into the finish. Never gave it any more thought

IMG_6906.JPG
 

old_picker

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don't use Tuner screws, they're roundheaded... use Humbucker ring mounting screws, they're countersunk.. they make for a much more professional appearance...

r


This is a nice tip thanks Ron, even though it involves an extra step to countersink the tiny holes in the leading edge of the plate.
I may use bucker ring screws next time

Never had a complaint about the unprofessional looking round-head tuner screws on the front of the bridge plate however.
 

Meteorman

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Most ground the plate with a dedicated wire, but its not absolutely necessary if your pickup baseplate is grounded, which it should be - that grounds the bridge plate via the pickup adjustment screws. Use stranded wire, bare a half inch or so of the end, un-twist it, and feather the strands out. Splay these out of the hole in body and screw plate down. Do this back by the plate screws. Shouldn’t be any noticeable plate lift problem
 




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