Bridge for Hot Rails for Tele

[DavidM1]

I have just modded a 2019 MIM Player series tele with SD ‘59 neck pickup and Hot Rails for Tele in the bridge. Everything went together very easily except the fit of the hot rails.

The first pickup wouldn’t go close for fit - the top plates were almost the same size as the bridge opening with no clearance for the windings and tape. SD support were quick to send a warranty replacement, which was very good of them. That pickup was closer but still too tight to fit through the opening because of the lack of clearance. It seemed the only solution was to file the bridge opening. The pickup now fits and is fine but I’m not that impressed with my amateurish filing...

Does anyone know of a good replacement 6 saddle bridge that will definitely fit a Hot Rails for Tele? Does the Fender 6 saddle vintage one work or perhaps the G&L? Perhaps an older MIM Standard?

Thanks!

 

[jhundt]

I bought an inexpensive copy of a Tele bridge and removed the piece surrounding the pickup. This was back in 1995 or so. The Hot Rails pickup had a serious feedback problem; I even had it re-potted by a Duncan-recommended guitar repair guy. I finally found that the feedback was caused by the bridge plate. When I removed that section and mounted the pickup directly to the wood body, the feedback went away. Years later I saw that this was called the GE Smith bridge.

 

[Verne Bunsen]

I had a Hot Rails in the bridge of one of my Teles many years ago, had to do the exact same thing. I don't know of an off-the-shelf bridge that will accept the Hot Rails without modification (not saying there isn't one, I just don't know of its existence if there is....), but I bet ya Marc over at Rutter's Guitars could get you set up if you wanted something prettier than your own handywork. He's done a couple of custom bridges for me.

https://ruttersguitars.com

As an aside, regarding the squealing bridge plate, I read an interview with Lindy Fralin where he said he would actually apply wax to the bottom of the bridge itself before mounting it to the guitar to alleviate just that. I've never had to try it myself, but always kept that knowledge-nugget tucked away for future reference...

 

[jhundt]

I had a Hot Rails in the bridge of one of my Teles many years ago, had to do the exact same thing. I don't know of an off-the-shelf bridge that will accept the Hot Rails without modification (not saying there isn't one, I just don't know of its existence if there is....), but I bet ya Marc over at Rutter's Guitars could get you set up if you wanted something prettier than your own handywork. He's done a couple of custom bridges for me.

https://ruttersguitars.com

As an aside, regarding the squealing bridge plate, I read an interview with Lindy Fralin where he said he would actually apply wax to the bottom of the bridge itself before mounting it to the guitar to alleviate just that. I've never had to try it myself, but always kept that knowledge-nugget tucked away for future reference...

interesting... my squeal was not solved by repotting, and I didn't try this trick. But in my search to find the cause, I removed the strings from the guitar, and removed the bridge plate. In fact, now that I think about it, it was an aftermarket bridge that I bought so I wouldn't have to grind out the opening in my original '68 bridge - the problem the OP is faced with.

I removed the pickup from the bridge plate and laid it on the workbench , still wired through the guitar controls. No squealing at any volume level on the guitar, or the amp. When I lowered the bridge plate over the pickup, the squealing started. I had eliminated every variable I could think of (strings, body, position re: amp, etc) and found that the plate itself was causing the squeal. I could and did repeat the experiment several times, with the same results. I never quite understood the science, but I respected the results and went on to use that pickup for many years with never a peep of a squeal.

BTW - I wired up a mini-switch that would bypass all the contols on the guitar and just send the Hot Rails humbucker signal to the output. It was great! I have never been a user of foot-pedals, and in this group I was required to play lead parts sometimes. I could chug along in my normal rhythm setting, and just flick that switch and blast away!

 

[DavidM1]

I do like the sound of the hot rails. Unless a better idea comes along I think I will have to file an mim standard bridge after thanksgiving. Thanks for the replies.

 

[thatkeithmorris]

Kluson Bridge here. It was a tight push fit but once it’s in there’s enough clearance for height adjustment without it catching on the tape.

 

[urbandefault]

I used a Dremel to open up the hole in a bridge to fit the pickup I wanted to use. Just don't get in a hurry and it all works out fine.

 

[Macrogats]

I’m glad thread came up, cos I purchased a Tele type rails bridge awhile back, and she don’t want to fit in any style Tele Bridge I’ve got. Thought I’d purchased a dud, but it’s obviously a common problem.

The pup in question is slated for a current build I’m doing, but my plan was/is to mount it direct to the body.

 

[trev333]

this generic split bridge pu slid right into a wilko with no issues or squeals...



though, I'm taking that one out soon to put this one in...

 

[scooteraz]

Would the Barden bridge work? Seems like hot rails and the Bardens would be similar dimensions.

 

[DavidM1]

A final update on the Seymour Duncan Hot Rails for Tele...

I tracked down a friend with a vise and bought a round file normally used for sharpening chain saws. I marked the areas that needed filing and taped up the rest to retain the smooth chrome finish. It didn’t take much filing and I also smoothed the corners with some fine grit paper. Fortunately, the bridge is an affordable part so it was cheap enough to do it a second time having rushed a freehand attempt earlier. The filing is now imperceptible and the part still looks like it has a “factory” finish.

It seems this is pretty much what’s needed to fit the pickup into the Mexican Standard / Player Series bridge. Not a big job if you have a vise and take your time. The pickup itself is a winner.

 

[Doctorx33]

Applying wax underneath the bridgeplate worked for me. I just melted some of the wax I used to wax pickups on the underside of the plate and installed it, you only need a thin coat.

 

[jim777]

Why would a manufacturer as big as Duncan make a Tele pickup that won't fit in a Tele?? Am I missing something?

 

[DavidM1]

Applying wax underneath the bridgeplate worked for me. I just melted some of the wax I used to wax pickups on the underside of the plate and installed it, you only need a thin coat.

The wax was enough to let you ease in the pickup?

 

[Doctorx33]

The wax was enough to let you ease in the pickup?

sorry I should have been more clear. It eliminated feedback.

 

[thatkeithmorris]

I’ve just removed mine from the bridge and it dropped out no problem. However I noticed some of the tape had worn away on 2 corners, exposing the windings, Not sure if this is from installation or the up and down movement while adjusting pickup height. Pickup still works but if I was doing this again I’d open up the mounting slot a bit at the 4 corners.

 

[Daytona.57]

I have a Squier Pro Tone Fat Telecaster with a heavy custom bridge plate and Hot Rails Tele bridge pickup.

The SD Hot Rails pickup started to sustain heavily and feedback. I lowered the pickup and it fedback louder. I proceeded to raise the pickup higher until it stopped the feedback.

I adjusted the height of the neck humbucker to balance the pickups.

Now it sounds much improved, and has nice cleans in the middle position. The OEM neck humbucker is full and has clarity. The bridge Hot Rails pickup has articulate mids for leads, with push/pull for single coils.


YMMV

 

[BLCK-OPM22]

interesting... my squeal was not solved by repotting, and I didn't try this trick. But in my search to find the cause, I removed the strings from the guitar, and removed the bridge plate. In fact, now that I think about it, it was an aftermarket bridge that I bought so I wouldn't have to grind out the opening in my original '68 bridge - the problem the OP is faced with.

I removed the pickup from the bridge plate and laid it on the workbench , still wired through the guitar controls. No squealing at any volume level on the guitar, or the amp. When I lowered the bridge plate over the pickup, the squealing started. I had eliminated every variable I could think of (strings, body, position re: amp, etc) and found that the plate itself was causing the squeal. I could and did repeat the experiment several times, with the same results. I never quite understood the science, but I respected the results and went on to use that pickup for many years with never a peep of a squeal.

BTW - I wired up a mini-switch that would bypass all the contols on the guitar and just send the Hot Rails humbucker signal to the output. It was great! I have never been a user of foot-pedals, and in this group I was required to play lead parts sometimes. I could chug along in my normal rhythm setting, and just flick that switch and blast away!

I know this is an old post but I am having a similar problem with a lot of noise coming from my seymour duncan vintage stacks which should be noiseless. If there was interference at the bridge would it cause the same interference on the neck pickup due to them being grounded with the same wires or connected somehow along the circuit? Because I haven't tried removing my bridge but I get the same loud hum from both pickups? Or would this be a different issue probably like grounding?