Breaking the bank/back -> Doubleneck

crazydave911

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Ah,now I get it, that sounds like a fabulous idea!
Turning 40 this year, so, I know rulers with grooves, but no metal ones, at least not from school😉
But I will ask my father, he is a hoarder of old stuff,maybe he has something that might be cool to be turned into jackplates.
My oldest is 40 this year, good luck 🤞😁
 

JohnnyThul

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Made the toggle switch routing for the neck selector.

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And I hit a channel I obviously routed before gluing the top on. 🙂 Did better planning, than expected, very nice!

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JohnnyThul

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The drill bits arrived ( I bought a whole set in 0,5mm steps, I hope I'm done with that now...)and I drilled the holes for the 6 string bridge. And while I was at it, I laid out the location for the pots and the switch, drilled the mounting holes and routed the deep dishs. Then I made a template for the electronic compartment. Tomorrow I'll do the covers and the output jack and then I can start sanding.

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JohnnyThul

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Put on some stain today. I didn't aim for a particular colour, just let it work out itself. It became kind of an almond burst, I'd say.
I also put on some oil with a brush, so, it's hard to photograph the colour accordingly, especially, as the light in my workshop is very limited ( just one light on the ceiling, no windows).

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JohnnyThul

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Put on the last layer of Truoil. Now it has to cure and then comes final assembly and setup.
I thinned the truoil with mineral spirits for the last layer. It took me nearly a day to find out, what the German equivalent for mineral spirit is. It is sometimes crazy, how complicated it is to find out, what is meant by certain American product names or descriptions. Maybe one should start a translation site especially for woodworking terms🙂
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And then I encountered a problem, which is didn't think of: the Switchcraft DPDT toggle needs an extra large switch cap, as the thread is longer. And I want it in cream or white. Seems to be impossible to find, I can only find the black one.
If anyone has a suggestion, I'm all ears🙂
 

JohnnyThul

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I really like the look of an oil finish and no grain filler. Very natural and lustrous.
I am not a fan of grain filler as I do not see the sense to put more stuff on the wood, than necessary. On the other side I always aim for a slight high gloss, so, I put more oil on, than absolutely necessary, but the grain filler is too much in my book 🙂
Open pored make it a little less "plastic" looking imho.
 

chaosman12

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I am not a fan of grain filler as I do not see the sense to put more stuff on the wood, than necessary.
For solid bodies, grain filing is a style choice. For acoustics, many builders carefully select the top wood by tapping it and listening and feeling for vibrations. It seems that forcing filler into the pores would effect those subtle vibrations and thus the sound.

For an oil finish I now make my own Watco style "danish" oil. Equal parts, boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits, and oil based poly. Wipe it on, wait 15 min, wipe it all off. It takes about 6 coats get a shine going. On the last coats, after wiping it on, rub it in with 600 - 100 grit WD sandpaper to get the desired shine. It's not the fastest finish, but it is fool proof. I usually follow with a paste wax for a really nice feel.
 

Freeman Keller

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For acoustics, many builders carefully select the top wood by tapping it and listening and feeling for vibrations. It seems that forcing filler into the pores would effect those subtle vibrations and thus the sound.


The woods used for the tops of most acoustic (spruces, cedar) are not porous and do not require pore filling. There are a few exceptions. Most acoustic builders try to make their top finishes as thin as possible.
 
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