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Braided pickup wiring with a 3 way switch?

Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by don, Nov 25, 2020.

  1. don

    don Tele-Meister

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    Anyone got a photo of what this looks like - I know what to connect where but can't understand what to do with the braided sleeve since the 3 way switch and the nearest pot for grounding are a ways apart and I need to make sure the braided part cannot touch any other components inside the cavity! This P90 neck pickup install is a new one for me!
     
  2. EsquireOK

    EsquireOK Friend of Leo's

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    In situations like that, you have to run a lead from the braid. I have done this many times when installing Gibson style pickups in Fender guitars.
     
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  3. Deaf Eddie

    Deaf Eddie Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Do as EsquireOK ^ sez. For extra security, run some heat shrink tubing over the pickup lead, covering the braid and joint where you solder the new lead to ground.
     
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  4. JRapp

    JRapp Tele-Holic

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    ^^^ this. And strip the braid back to where it doesn't even enter the control cavity.
     
  5. old wrench

    old wrench Tele-Afflicted

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    In practical use, it doesn't really matter if the braided grounds touch each other or if the braided grounds touch your shielding in the control cavity.

    I'll usually solder a piece of wire to the braid because at some point you'll need to ground that braid to the backside of a control pot via a soldered connection, and it's a little easier to solder a light-gauge wire to the pot than the braid and it often makes for a cleaner looking over-all job :).

    What I generally do is strip back enough of the braid to solder a light-gauge piece of twisted or solid core wire to it. You don't need heavy-duty wire - 24ga. or 26ga. is plenty, although I sometimes use 20ga. or 22ga. because I always have plenty of it on hand from amp building projects.

    To strip back the braided jacket, just slip something pointy like an awl through the braid at the wires end push it towards the wires end, the braid will separate cleanly, then you can work your way back in that fashion until you've got enough of the braid separated to make your solder joint without frying the center wiring.

    Before soldering, I clean the braid with a little bit of alcohol and a clean cloth, then twist up the end of the braid and apply a bit of flux that's designed for soldering electrical stuff. Use a hot and clean tip and a solder that's designed for electrical stuff for your guitar or amp work.

    edit: Soldering always goes much better when the parts you're joining are clean. They can be cleaned mechanically by sanding or scraping etc., and I always like to give them a quick cleaning with alcohol and a rag to make sure there is no oil or grease on them. Use a rosin-core solder designed for electrical work. I like using "thinner" solder for light-gauge electrical work - the stuff I use is right around .050" thick and it's easier to work with than the "fat" stuff :).
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2020
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  6. dogmeat

    dogmeat Friend of Leo's

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    if you use a 4 way switch the braid can not touch anything grounded, including the shielding paint. how do I know these things.....
     
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  7. trev333

    trev333 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    you can put a plastic sleeve over the braid....:)

    B&W tele pots1.jpg
     
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  8. don

    don Tele-Meister

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    This is all really good information! I like the idea of covering the braid and leaving as much in the cavity as possible rather than removing it. Soldering a jumper wire from the braid to use as the ground connection on the pot is a perfect solution. Thanks so much!
     
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