Boothill 5E3 build

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by CtoshiningC, Jul 22, 2019.

  1. CtoshiningC

    CtoshiningC TDPRI Member

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    Hello all!
    I put a boothill 5F1 kit together a few years back and, well...you know how it goes.

    I've started to put this 5E3 kit together. I've got much of the components laid out on the board. Still need to add more leads leads and under-board connections. Got ahead of myself and soldered a few things on.

    20190722_135359.jpg

    Hopefully I've got everything in the right place so far. Thanks for looking!
     
  2. tubedood

    tubedood Tele-Meister

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    I have heard great things about the Boothill kits, Keep up the good work!
     
  3. King Fan

    King Fan Poster Extraordinaire

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    Can't have too many 5e3s in the world! Have fun and share pics...
     
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  4. CtoshiningC

    CtoshiningC TDPRI Member

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    I've been using Rob's wonderful site and 5e3 layout. There, the HV center tap is routed to the power amp filter caps and then everything is sent to ground. Is there a benefit to running the HV CT there, or can it just be sent to the same ground point that first set of filter caps uses?
     
  5. King Fan

    King Fan Poster Extraordinaire

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    Rob says:

     
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  6. CtoshiningC

    CtoshiningC TDPRI Member

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    Guess I should read more! Thanks
     
  7. CtoshiningC

    CtoshiningC TDPRI Member

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    Another one - on the tube side, the cathode bypass cap/power tube cathode are routed first to V4 then V3 (both on pin 8). With my board and chassis, V3 is closer and more convenient to hit first. Do the order of these connections matter? I'd guess not as they go to ground...but would like to check
     
  8. robrob

    robrob Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    The order doesn't matter.
     
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  9. CtoshiningC

    CtoshiningC TDPRI Member

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    Another step closer! Got the leads in and trimmed. Any issues that need addressed before continuing?

    20190911_181921.jpg

    20190911_181954.jpg

    Thanks for looking!
     
  10. CtoshiningC

    CtoshiningC TDPRI Member

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    I decided to put this 5E3 chassis into a head cabinet. I'd built a 2x10 cabinet a while ago for my 5F1 and figured going with a head cab would be a flexible option. Maybe even give me an excuse to build a 1x12 speaker cab in the future.

    Used a router jig and went with half-blind DOVETAILS IN 3/4" pine. Channeled out a slot (with a lip in the top and bottom) for the front panels using a table saw. Used a forstner bit to get a nice corner radius for the chassis cutout. 20190225_153127.jpg

    Used a straight edge to router out the rest of the chassis cutout and used a round-over bit on all the edges.
    20190301_141206.jpg

    Used some 3/8" baltic birch ply for the front and rear panels. Put a small round-over on the back panel cutouts.
    20190506_175425.jpg

    When building my 5F1, I had seen a picture of a transitional era champ. A narrow panel version with black tolex, and was quite enamoured with the look. I never did tolex the champ, but decided upon that look for this build. Watched the Uncle Doug tolexing videos a bunch of times and got to it.

    Fender-style straight corner cuts. Some turned out better than others.

    20190529_160418.jpg

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    Used an old-style handle, some stainless steel hardware. When fastening the grill cloth, I found using a sheet metal seamer to pull the edges tight a huge help. Made it easier to pull a section tight and keep it straight and even. And here we are, ready for a finished chassis.

    20190606_171438.jpg

    20190606_171457.jpg

    20190606_171427.jpg
     
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  11. D'tar

    D'tar Friend of Leo's

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    Your board looks fine and your cabinet looks fantastic!!!
     
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  12. BigDaddy23

    BigDaddy23 Tele-Holic

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    Fantastic stuff! Well done!!

    What's your plan to route the speaker and power cables out of the cabinet? Through the cutouts, perhaps a jackplate?
     
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  13. CtoshiningC

    CtoshiningC TDPRI Member

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    Thanks.
    The plan was to exit through the cut-outs. I'd imagine one would need to be mindful of the cables and the tubes.
     
  14. King Fan

    King Fan Poster Extraordinaire

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    That cab looks insanely great. Good job.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
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  15. Syrinx

    Syrinx Tele-Holic

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    good idea on the metal seamer-will likely do that next time I recover something.
     
  16. CtoshiningC

    CtoshiningC TDPRI Member

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    Any tips on how to get the switches to stay on tight? Do folks use a lock-washer here?
     
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  17. robtking

    robtking TDPRI Member

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    Your cab looks fantastic - well done! It's almost a shame to cover over the excellent woodwork!
     
  18. CtoshiningC

    CtoshiningC TDPRI Member

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    Some more progress...baby steps.

    Got the PT and OT mounted. I'm using a Hammond 290BX and 1760E.
    Mounted the board after checking (again) resistor values, leads etc.

    Finding correctly sized star washers around these parts proved as difficult as finding a unicorn. Ended up with some fibre washers to mount the switches. Sinched up all the other pots, fuses, jacks etc. nice and tight.

    20191012_134359.jpg
    Drilled a hole to add a ground point rather than use a PT bolt. Lock-washered a piece of terminal strip there. Have the HV center tap going to the first filter cap, then to ground.


    20191012_133625.jpg
    Mounting jacks seems to be a tight squeeze here with the turret board. I ended up snipping off the un-used sleeve tabs on the secondary input jacks to buy some breathing room. Still need to solder these connections.
     
  19. CtoshiningC

    CtoshiningC TDPRI Member

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    20190927_101247.jpg
    Wired up the PT to the rectifier socket. Added 1N4007 diodes between pins 3+4, and 5+6.


    20191011_123147.jpg
    Wired up the pots and connected them to the ground bus. In this picture, that 56k resistor for the PT tail has an actual value of 67k. I understand 56k carbon comp values are notoriously out of whack. Hopefully mine isn't too far out?
     
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  20. CtoshiningC

    CtoshiningC TDPRI Member

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    Got the tube sockets wired up.
    V1 and V2. Added the NFB mod in.
    20191116_091645.jpg

    Tight squeeze on V3 and V4. My PT (Hammond 290BX) doesn't have a 6.3v centre tap. I used Rob's artificial centre tap here with two 1/2W 100ohm resistors from pins 2 and 7 to ground at pin 8. Also added 3W 470ohm screen resistors from pins 1 to 4 and moved the connection from B+2 to pin 1.
    20191116_091805.jpg

    I'm going to omit the standby switch connection, wiring pin 8 (B+) on V5 to B+1.

    Only a few more steps to go - wiring up the speaker output, power, switch and fuse.
     
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