Bone Voyage

preeb

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I tune the top plate only after the F holes are bound because the binding add material weight to the top and changes the size a bit.
Normally, on the common F holes I will glue the WBW binding strips first but to do the Bone Voyage binding properly I will have to do them separately. The reason is that there's only a single breaking point (angle) in the binding outline and I decided to add a nice touch and avoid the usual pointy binding mitering. Instead the point is rounded.. so there's no way to bend the 0.105" binding in that tight turn..

I start by rounding the first creme binding over the correct diameter drill shaft

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and check the fit

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Mitering the hanged edge

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and completing the outline with a single strip making sure to cut the end accurately to avoid a gap

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I use acetone for glue and filament tape to hold the binding in place as they dry. My favorite is this stuff... which is thin and has a strong glue.
The fiberglass veins are only running lengthwise so it's very easy to work with.

WP_20141211_014.jpg~original



Like this

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30 minutes later I remove the tape and repeat with the thin black strip making sure to locate the mitering point in a different location

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and complete with the 3rd creme strip
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Thank g_d there are only 3 layers.. LOL
and this is all for the sake of that tiny round corner.. but I love those small things and I don't mind the extra work.
 

preeb

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Before I decide on the back plate final thickness I wanted to test the 5/32" thickness.
It doesn't break easily when bent but does shatter on impact.. I used a plastic hammer and got a clean break along the grain.

WP_20141211_027.jpg~original


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I also compared it to the top plate and found that the tap note is considerably lower on the back (no bracing). Now.. since I want the plates to sound the same I will need to go thicker as expected. I assume 3/16" will behave the same so I'll take it up a notch and do it 7/32". I'll try to break it and see how it behaves.
 
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preeb

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Sides are normally bent from a single strip of wood and enforced with bars and kerfing.
I don't want that.. and don't want tons of glue in the box.
I will be using a dense Cuban Mahogany blank and cut the sides as a one piece of wood.
It will be 0.5" thick and will provide a massive solid base for the plates to vibrate on.
It will also hold the neck tenon firmly without having the block touching the plates (they are concave in that area).

WP_20141211_018.jpg~original


I have a limited stock of very old and rare Cuban Mahogany that I reserved for the Bone Voyage. It's very dense and will not work for a solid body (too heavy). I had it air dried for quite a few years and it has kept it's flatness very well (it was old when I bought it.. so no surprise). This Mahogany turns very dark when exposed to the elements. See it compared to a freshly sanded Mahogany (Cuban on bottom)

WP_20141211_023.jpg~original



Medium weight Mahogany..

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and the Cuban.. (-;

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light sanding through the thickness drum and the vivid reddish color the Cuban is known for is back

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I will go eat some lunch and cut it later along with the back plate..
 

Mxk116

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Very exciting Gil...looking forward to seeing your vision materialize.

Thanks for turning me on to the thread Mike. Don't know how I missed the this.

Subscribed!

Gil- you must have figured out how to squeeze 25 hours out of a 24 hour day! Bravo for once again documenting a prototype build and sharing the thought process for construction choices.
 

preeb

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I made another back plate. This time it's 7/32" thick and it's a very strong plate.
Having more luck than brains, the taping note is the same as the top so that nails the final thickness for both plates. The top plate is 5/32" thick and of course very strong due to having the X braces.

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Body is cut, or better say.. extracted from the Mahogany block.

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Breaks my heart to throw away 90% of this precious amazing lumber but I may find a use for this thing. Maybe in the kitchen. Or in the battlefield.

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When I cut the body I program little bridges to hold the inner parts as the outlines are being cut.

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They need to be flush cut on the router table

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in this stage I also remove 1/8" from the plate gluing surface of the sides shell. I use a round-over bit. I do this to earn a little more free vibrating space for the plates. Considering the 0.120" binding channel I leave only 0.245" width for the glue joint (0.5" - 0.125" -0.120") and to prevent the glue squeeze out from trespassing the plates. Those re-curve outer areas are crucial for tone as I will show later in the build

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preeb

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F holes (I should say Cat-eye holes) Binding are dry by now.
I flush them with the surface using a sharp chisel.

WP_20141211_048.jpg~original



outer side

WP_20141211_050.jpg~original



and inner side.
At this point I also tapped both plates to find out they have the same identical tap note.
I made a video on my phone and will post it on youtube soon.

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Note how the tip of the cat-eye came out!! I think it is worth the trouble. Hours well spent and it looks unique and better than a standard miter joint TMHO.

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A few more shots..

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preeb

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Thanks for turning me on to the thread Mike. Don't know how I missed the this.

Subscribed!

Gil- you must have figured out how to squeeze 25 hours out of a 24 hour day! Bravo for once again documenting a prototype build and sharing the thought process for construction choices.

Hah... Yes, 28 out of 24. You know me (-;
 

love4god

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awsome work preeb
what kind of bridge u going with?
you will find some use for that nice pice u cut out of the body:D
keep the pics commin

godbless:)
 

Greg M

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You call them cat's eyes, I'll call them Viking horns :D.

Really loving this build Gil. I think it will turn out awesome. I've got to figure out a way to build a hollow body someday. Something to play jazz poorly on :p.
 

potomac

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Hm? ... I always thought that the wood grain of a bracing should go from one end to the other, that brings max. stability. In your guitar the the wood grain is in a 45° angle to the direction of the bracing, that could be less sturdy as it should be, couldn't it?
 

barbrainy

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Before I decide on the back plate final thickness I wanted to test the 5/32" thickness.
It doesn't break easily when bent but does shatter on impact.. I used a plastic hammer and got a clean break along the grain.

WP_20141211_027.jpg~original


WP_20141211_028.jpg~original

Blimey. That's some committed research! I mean, I have broken the odd bit of nice wood before, but never on purpose!
 

abarson

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Pickup mounting?

As always, enthralling documentation! I really appreciate that you take the time to explain your reasoning for doing something a certain way.

I'm wondering how you are planning to mount your pickups. Since you've taken pains to maximize the top plate surface, it seems a shame to cut holes in it to mount the pu's. Maybe float them somehow, or a new thin pickup like the Lace USAB?
 




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