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Bolt - new model proto build

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Apr 17, 2014.

  1. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Spring cavity cover template printed and cut..

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    String access and handle lock holes are cut

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    Plastics are matched to the blonde color of the guitar to keep the back looking clean.
    Trimmed

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    Same for the Control cavity cover

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    mounting holes drilled

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    like this

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    Spring cavity cover is rounded over for a smooth edge

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    Countersink cuts for the screws

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    and the covers are done

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  2. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Body received 2 coats of clear lacquer and left to dry for a couple of days. It is now ready for the final retarder coat that will melt the finish film into its final shiny flat surface. I have to go this way because sanding is not possible for a finish film that is so thin (about 1/-3 - 1/4 of a normal 6-8 coats of nitro).
    This can't be done vertically because the retarder will run.. so it looks real funny when I do that.. I also make funny noises when my hands and shoulders are in pain from holding the guitar flat as the retarder slowly evaporates.. LOL

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    Looking really good. Nice, flat and shiny.

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  3. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Teoni is done with the winding. I use AWG42.5 for the P90 AirGaps.
    Bridge is a little over-wound and neck is a little under-wound to get a more natural balance between them.

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    AirGap poles are mounted

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    Thin Nickel-Silver plate is prepared for soldering

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    and tightly screwed to the back of the bobbin

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    One lead wire soldered to the common ground

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    and the PU lead wire is soldered to the common ground and the hot wire from the coil.
    The hot connection is masked the old 50's way (-;

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    Cover is soldered to the base

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    It's a thin Nickel plated cover.
    The casing around the PU is basically a Faraday cage that along with the base shields the AirGap P90 from any hums and noises (as much as possible that is.. (-; ).

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    PU assembly is done

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    I now "zero" adjust the AirGap poles. The final adjustment will be done after final guitar assembly during the sound check.

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    Even though it may appear that having 3 P90 PU's might be heavy.. it is not.
    The AirGaps are very lightweight since there are no heavy bar magnets, steel keeper bar and thick base.

    Vintage P90 is ~ 140 grams (including the plate screws I forgot to add)

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    while the AirGap P90 is only 95 grams

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    So 3 AirGaps weigh exactly like 2 regular P90's (~0.63 lbs)
     
  4. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

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    These are so cool, Gil. I'm curious about the sound, compared to an actual P-90. The only thing they share in common is the bobbin size/shape, right? Is that enough to give a P-90 "flavor?"
     
  5. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Thanks.
    Yeah.. I know I'll have to try them out first but they are expensive to manufacture... so I thought to get your opinions first to see if it is worth the effort for the type of tone I'm after.
    If it sounds anything like Brass with a little added "zing" then it's exactly what I want!
     
  6. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    The magnet wire is very similar to the early '52-'53 P90's as well.
    The sound is just like an early P90 with the added versatility of the AirGap system adjustments.
    If you push the AirGap to extreme you can get a much mellower or much brighter tone for each and every string for each PU.
     
  7. NateM

    NateM TDPRI Member

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    Hey Gil,

    Out of curiosity, how do you attach the magnet to the rest of the pole? Is it threaded on the inside or do you have another method?
     
  8. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Cold welding. It's like epoxy for metal.
     
  9. Bulinski102

    Bulinski102 Tele-Meister

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    What is your annual production? Seeing all those pickups... Wow.
     
  10. Sterling Sound

    Sterling Sound Tele-Meister

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    Are the pick-up covers Standard P90 sized chromed plastic units? Or were these custom designed/fabricated?
     
  11. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    LOL... Very low.
    It takes 24 poles for each Bone...
     
  12. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    HI B.
    Custom Nickel plated brass.
    Plastic cannot be soldered..
     
  13. Mark Grant

    Mark Grant Tele-Afflicted

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    Just curious, why brass and not German silver?
     
  14. ratter

    ratter Tele-Meister

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    Fantastic. Seeing your replica builds was a big part of the reason that I started building. But I'm enjoying these new original models just as much, if not more. It's great to see your talents not constrained by period details.
     
  15. NateM

    NateM TDPRI Member

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    Very cool!
     
  16. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    As long as the poles are exposed there is no difference between the two.
    Brass makes a smoother surface and easier to plate, so the Nickel, which is magnetic, can be made thinner. I may try non plated NS as well for its raw look.
     
  17. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Thank you!
     
  18. mlp-mx6

    mlp-mx6 Tele-Holic

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    I am fascinated by your rethinking of nearly every aspect of a "standard" instrument. Excellent! I'm very much looking forward to hearing this prototype.
     
  19. Mark Grant

    Mark Grant Tele-Afflicted

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    Cool! I love the raw silver. Is the brass nickel plated or chrome? Could shielding paint be used inside plastic covers with a pickup eyelet for grounding attached through the cover toward the bottom edge? I personally prefer plastic covers on the p90's but love the idea of a fully shielded unit.
     
  20. 123stupple

    123stupple Tele-Meister

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    Talking of tele bridges have you thought about the mastery bridge. I think it comes with steel or brass saddles and to my mind is a handsome bridge!
    The bolt is looking amazing, incredible work! As per usual!
     
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