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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Apr 17, 2014.
I believe he said nickel.
Got to have the nickel for the way it ages IMHO anyways.
Hey Gil, awesome as usual! Have you thought about testing the Babizc Full Contact Hardware Bridges for the Bolt?
Gil, I love it. It reminded me of something, finally figured out what it is, the Taylor, but it has much better balance and proportion.
It's Nickel plated but I can also do it with Chrome for those who prefer it like that. The Chrome doesn't age much..
The trick with conductive paint will work just fine but it may not hold well on plastic. Standard copper shielding adhesive will be better.
Thanks for that idea. I'll have a look at it too.
A little too heavy for my application. I'm after the old school twang (-;
I had no idea that Taylor are offering solids.
It must be the bevel on the upper edge that rang your bells.. (-;
I use this adhesion promoter made by House of Kolor called Adhereto. I forgot to mention shot a very light coat of that before the shielding paint. Might be quicker and easier than the copper foil?
I wouldn't trust anything being used over plastics. Plastics can be non stable materials and "behave" over time.
I'm a "show me" kind of guy Gil so I'll report my findings back. I'm going to spray a set Monday. After they are dry they'll be subjected to 100+ degrees and extreme cold as well for prolonged periods and see what happens. I've had great success painting plastics with this method in the past, don't see a reason not to try it.
Weather is like a pizza oven here lately so the thin lacquer is long dry and ready for buffing. I only lightly "kiss" the surface to remove ant light over spray
Nice and shiny but not too shiny (-;
I used the coarse buffing compound to get the old look and feel
Same for the neck
Lacquer to Shellac transition line is gone by now
Any lacquer and over-spray is gently removed from the neck pocket
and I use this tool that I specially made
to clear off the lacquer from the bridge body inserts
Note the stud's locking system, I'll be using it after final setup and adjustments
For now I just insert it all the way in
PU's lead wire channels drilled
The P90's are floating over springs and directly mounted to the body with wood screws. I do NOT use any soft cushion strips under the PU's as they tend to darken the tone a little.
and all 3 PU's are mounted
Note the small mounting lead holes showing through the back cavity (-;
35% taper over 550K pots installed. I could have also used 250K but I want this guitar to be bright and clear and lower value pots lose some brightness
Not sure which knobs will be used eventually.. so those brass tubes will allow the use of both solid and knurled shaft for any type of knobs (-;
Large volume and small Tone knobs. All are low profile.
Circuit is completed with 0.022MFD BB cap for nice musical tone control role off.
Back covers are mounted
Heavy duty locking system installed. This type of locker can be easily removed and re installed from the strap (which was very important for me...)
Tuner holes cleaned from any lacquer and over-spray
and the 510 HAPM locking tuners are installed
It is super easy to string the guitar, as expected with this wonderful bridge system and the large cover access hole on the back
Setup and intonation are also a breeze on the Bolt.
When done, I lock the studs
adjust and lock the trem handle bar
and it is all done except for the AirGap PU's adjustments that I'll be doing after playing it for a while
Super low action on this stable neck. That new truss-rod system is just wonderful and is now standard on all models including the Bone.
No need for a string tree as mentioned earlier in this thread..
I used the Broadcaster type input jack for this build. Looks great (-;
There are quite a few ways to set those AirGaps and it was pretty amazing to get a 50's Strat or Tele tone when the AG's are set to bright, or nice sweet classic P90 tone when set to mellow on the G,B,E strings. She sounds amazing and feels like butter. Weight is just under 7.0 lbs and I can't put that thing down. Awesome sound in every playing style (at least the styles I can play that is (-; ).
Next proto will be the Bolt-T which is already designed and ready to be built.
Demo coming up soon.
Looking fantastic Gil. I want one.
Just one question, have you thought about recessing the trem spring cavity a bit to let the cover lay flat with the body?
That neck is beautiful!
I really like the transparent white too.
Yes, that will require either a thicker body or a shorter inertia block.
At this point I don't find it important enough to change either of the above just to get the cover recessed (-;
BTW, that is why I rounded the cover edges.
Thank you guys (and girls (-