Bob's "clear coat" DIY

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by bob1234, Sep 21, 2013.

  1. mindwave

    mindwave Tele-Meister

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    Well, since Im the only one talking about BOBS method heres my report thus far.

    I followed his PPG method, slightly different product #'s although the dealer says its the same mix, used 4 tbs of clear and 2tbs of hardner and shot my SG and its headstock.

    Tomorrow after it drys I'll try and post sopme pix.

    Now Ive done my fair share of guitars, and up until now I have used hand rubbed finishes on all, so this is my 1st attempt at anything other than hand rubbed or rattlecan.

    I have a good resper. and spray shelter and take the "well ventelaited area" idea seriously.

    HOWEVER. even I wasnt prepared for this product. my spray tent is outside the house, but usually I'll mix in the garage then go out to the tent.

    To see what I was working with I started to take the cap off the hardner (to see if there was an inner cap that would need a knife), and I didnt even get the cap off all the way and WITH THE INNER CAP SEALED I could strongly smell the fumes from the hardner.

    So please take it seriously, this is some dense stuff and I imagine the damage would be quick, longlasting and painful.
     
  2. mindwave

    mindwave Tele-Meister

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    WOW

    Even I am impressed.

    i just went in and checked the SQ at the 2+ hour mark.

    Dry to the touch and VERY nice looking. Good thing I have WAY too much on my plate for the next 24 hours...otherwise I would probably break out the sand paper too early.

    Thanks bob I believe this may be just what I needed.

    J
     
  3. bob1234

    bob1234 Tele-Afflicted

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    Thats great! Glad it worked for you! Be sure to show some pictures :)
     
  4. funkymann1

    funkymann1 Tele-Holic

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    The preval system with 2 k urethane is all I use...have done about 10 bodies with it so far...the only beef i have with this post is it takes alot more talent then a square piece of wood to show off how it can be done...in other words the fan of the spray with the preval system is NOT control-able... in other words when your clamping the body to a table & its flat its a serious BIT$#%$ to NOT get runs on the side of the guitar...i have been dealing with that since day one...auto body guys use differant guns with differant needles for primer vs base vs clear...this way the clear sprays very thin wich you cant do with any spray can including the preval system....what im gonna try on my next body is do a single side coat & let it flash dry before i do the top of the guitar then i'll let flash again & flip it over & repeat....
     
  5. bob1234

    bob1234 Tele-Afflicted

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    It may be the urethane or hardener you are using. This stuff sprays on thick for me, and getting runs isn't an easy task for me. That said, any runs that do happen are VERY easily taken care of with a razor blade and a bit more sanding. The only reason I did the "small square" was because I don't have anything ready to paint (I thought i was going to), and to show how fast you can achieve great results.

    I will agree, this is no substitute for an HVLP setup by any means, but thats usually WAY out of the hobbyists price range or more then they would normally be willing to pay.
     
  6. mindwave

    mindwave Tele-Meister

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    WOO HOO _ happy Cammper!

    Bob, and friends.

    As reported, yesterday I sprayed my SG using Bobs recommedations here.

    I had a few things different, but I'll let you know as we go.

    1) I dont know what wood this body is, I bought it several YEARS ago and just never got around to it

    2) The body is Transtint Cardinal Red, the maple pieces (for color) are thin pieces of veneer w/ TT yellow and TT blue on them.

    3) BEFORE I started Bobs method I tried some of my own prep work, which included: Sanding the bare body down to 1000, sparying 15 coats (over 3 weeks) of Krylon Clear Coat Lacquerm, and although not a HORRID job I knew it wasnt what I wanted.

    4) after the rattlecan sat for a month to cure, I wet sanded it down to 2000, and THEN started in on Bobs methods.

    5) As stated earlier I couldnt get the exact product Bob recommended, I could only find it online at 1 place, and I thought their shipping was too jih, so I called PPG told them what I wanted and asked for a local retailer. They referred me to Bens who said they hadnt had Bobs recommendation for several years, and that this shopline product (also from PPG) was its replacement: (hope the pix come out OK, new to PB)

    [​IMG]

    6) so heres the guitar front and back with the rattlle can and sanding BEFORE I applied the shopline w/ the preval:

    [​IMG]

    and

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    7) Took me about 45 minutes prep work (had to setup my spray tent etc.) then I spent about an hour shooting 2 coats, did front, back, headstock, wauted 10 minutes then started over)

    THIS is what I have been looking for for quite some time!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Is there some orange peel? Yup, but to be honest, on the back my wife actually likes it, but I have no doubt that after the final sand, final polish everything will be GREAT!

    Bob I really appreciate you taking the time to post this how to, its amazing at how many people post them but tend to leave out some secret step or ingredient, yours is soup to nutz AWESOME!

    One thing i DONT have however, no runs, no drips no errors. No one poster had mentioned "clamping the body down"? Now I did do that on one guitar, as a matter of fact it was with anothe rproduct about 10x heavier than this one (that you CANT spray) and that has to be hand applied. This one was hanging from a wire in my spray tent. next time I'll probably go with the "straight stick" through the neck pocket.

    Thanks and watch this space for after the sand and then more after the polish!

    J'
     
  7. mindwave

    mindwave Tele-Meister

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    Ok, got 4 coats of meguiers ultimate compound on the SG

    Looks poretty good.

    BTW WHen Bob says dont use a cordless drill as a buffer, he's right.

    My corded drill is this huge heavy monster that I rarely ever use, BUT it works 100x better than my cordless for this job!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    check in next week for the final polish!
     
  8. ezas

    ezas TDPRI Member

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    Absolutely get a mask even if you are spraying outdoors. Ask me how I know.

    After that first mistake I used a disposable mask that I got for about $30. It was not rated for isocyanates (only fed air is). But based on my own reading i made a decision on:

    Single use
    Outdoor
    Short duration of use (about 5 minutes)
    And only exposure to catalyzed paint in the foreseeable future
     
  9. B-Rant

    B-Rant TDPRI Member

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    Bob,

    Is this product thin enough to work through a small touch-up gun (w/small compressor) or do you recommend the preval?

    B
     
  10. bob1234

    bob1234 Tele-Afflicted

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    I've used it with a small airbrush. you can use xylene or acetone to thin it 10-20% (NOTHING MORE...), but its not uber thick or anything. I used to have a small "detail gun" that was perfect for this stuff, but Im out a true workshop now, so preval is the way to go for me.
     
  11. mindwave

    mindwave Tele-Meister

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    sorry for the delay, but I actually liked this so much I stripped down and started sanding my Firebird, which was probably onlynabout 2 weeks from final wiring....

    ANYWAY, heres the SG, prepped and finished just the way Bob suggested, but in my area the lacquer product is no longer carrioed so I got a comperable form the same maker.

    This is after 4 coats of compound and 4 coutas of polish and a week in beterrn each step!

    Thanks Bob, this is awesome!
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. mindwave

    mindwave Tele-Meister

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    final note, I could have worked "out" the 'texture' on the back, but I really liked it!
     
  13. Rano Bass

    Rano Bass Tele-Holic

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    Hey bob just a question; what kind of paint did you used for the color before the 2k clear?
     
  14. bob1234

    bob1234 Tele-Afflicted

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    Nail polish mixed with acetone
     
  15. Rano Bass

    Rano Bass Tele-Holic

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    Really??? Regular nail color?
    Looks great!
     
  16. bob1234

    bob1234 Tele-Afflicted

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    Dont use instant dry stuff, dont use cheap stuff. I.e. you should frown when you buy it lol
     
  17. Rano Bass

    Rano Bass Tele-Holic

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    Well i finally got the courage to do it! Thanks to this thread i got a lot of information that i needed.
    Unfortuantely i didnt took pictures of the whole process.... i was busy and couldnt find my camera :D but here is the end result:

    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]

    Ant this is what i used, i got the urethane base coat at an automovile paint store and they used half of it to fill a spray can for me, i kept the rest just in case i needed to repair something. The clear is a cheap one but it is made by Dupont and i sprayed it with a preval.

    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]
     
  18. bob1234

    bob1234 Tele-Afflicted

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    Dude thats an epic win right there!!!
     
  19. Rano Bass

    Rano Bass Tele-Holic

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    Thanks man, it is a win for me.
    I was a little afraid of using polyurethane and 2k clear coats but im glad i did, it is not as hard to do as i thought and it dries a lot faster than lacquer. Plus since it is harder than nitro i can use less material than what i used to do!
     
  20. bob1234

    bob1234 Tele-Afflicted

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    yeah, its really hard to convince people that you really dont need much of this stuff to do a guitar. Im willing to bet you are coming up much cheaper than if you used a rattle can right?
     
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