BobJ’s 2022 Brotherhood Build (Esquire?)

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Ok, time to ask for some help. I bought some nice maple to make the neck (one piece), and a 2-way truss rod. The 2 one-piece necks I made last year used 1-way truss rods, and the 2-piece neck used a 2-way.

Can anyone point me to a build thread where the builder puts a 2-way truss rod in a 1-piece neck, through the back with a skunk stripe?

I’ve searched but can’t seem to find one.

Thanks!


I think a few have just epoxied or glued it in and have said there were no issues. @RickyRicardo IIRC. I did this:

 

Bob J

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Shot the first 3 coats of clear a few days ago, thought I’d better drill some holes for the bridge…
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And the ferrules
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I’ve seen ferrules done a number of ways, inset, flush, on top…

This time I’m going to let them sit proud, so 5/16” holes. Honestly I was checking out teles at GC once, all the more expensive ones had the ferrules sitting on top, and the more modest ones were flush. On the guitars where I flush mounted them I always sweat that step. Time to try something different.

Will shoot some more clear tomorrow.
 

Bob J

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Just when things are moving along…
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I’m working on cutting the TR slot on the router table, taking it easy with 1/8” passes, when the router makes a little bang, gets noisy and the breaker shuts off. I pull the router and find this:
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The bit pressed on the shaft that gets held when I tighten/loosen the collet snapped. Plus the fan inside has started disintegrating, a little pile of black plastic fan blades. I can put my other router back in the table, but it’s a pain to switch them back and forth, that’s why I got the second one.

On top of that I can’t loosen the collet to remove the router bit.

Well at the very least, I’m off to get another 1/4” bit. Maybe look at routers too…
 

Bob J

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Put the other router in the table (was able to get the bit out), and finished the slot. Extended the slot another 3/4” towards the headstock using a long drill and a tool I made inspired by a mortising tool I used once. Here is the truss rod installed.
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I have a piece of bubinga that will be perfect for the skunk stripe.
 

Bob J

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Also cut some fret slots
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And did the preliminary thinning of the headstock. Here it is next to one of my “failures”.
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Next I need to decide on dot material…
 

Bob J

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Naturally, had some problems with the dots, one had wandered a bit while drilling, had to redrill and fill with sawdust and CA. Will look better when finished, but noticeable still.
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A few others had some noticeable gaps, due to imperfect dots, or having had taken the fretboard down farther than anticipated, and removing too much dot. I made a few more dots and glued them in, and also made some paste of vinyl dissolved in acetone to fill some gaps.
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We’ll see how well this all sands out.
 

chaosman12

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one had wandered a bit while drilling, had to redrill and fill with sawdust and CA.
I think the overlap looks cool. Reminds me of a solar eclipse. I can see perhaps having each succesive fretboard marker (5, 7, 9) having continually less over lap until the 12th where it would be two separate "planets". Not suggesting you do that now, just an idea for a future astronomy themed build ;-)
 

Bob J

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That’s a great way to turn a mistake into an opportunity! One day I’ll do something interesting with the fretboard, until then I’ll push on.
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Side markers drilled and filled
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Dots on the front look ok.
 

guitarbuilder

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Just a suggestion. Radius your fretboard before you slot and before it is tapered. You won't get as much tearout and any tear out should be on the outside waste. My 2cents. Also, a sharp bit and feed direction impacts the tear out too. Lastly a PineMart (R) designed radius jig only allows the fretboard to travel perfectly perpendicular or parallel to your centerline...;-)


 

Bob J

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Thanks GB, I did that on my last neck, which had a separate fretboard that started out as a rectangular piece of stock. My problem is that I try to squeeze too many necks out of a piece of lumber, and end up with an irregular shape by the time I am cutting fret slots and the radius. This leads me to making inventive jigs, and trying to line up center lines.

I still need to take down the width a little which will clean up the edges, and a little more sanding will minimize the tear out on the surface. A new router bit would help I’m sure. Next neck.

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Bent some fretwire
 

Bob J

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Pressed in the frets
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Current technique is to tap in with a plastic mallet just to get them set, then press in using a C clamp and a hardwood caul. Then I checked for straightness with my 24” straight edge (it actually had bowed a little due to the pressure from the frets). I adjusted it straight again and used a small machined straight edge to rock the frets up and down the neck. A little more clamping on the high spots got it all reasonably straight. I then dripped in a little thin CA at the ends.
 

crazydave911

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I think the overlap looks cool. Reminds me of a solar eclipse. I can see perhaps having each succesive fretboard marker (5, 7, 9) having continually less over lap until the 12th where it would be two separate "planets". Not suggesting you do that now, just an idea for a future astronomy themed build ;-)
I built a Tele 12 string for the 2012 build challenge but didn't finish in time. My cedar body had knots on the back ALMOST exactly like the four Galalein moons in almost their correct orbits 😀
 

Bob J

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Starting to shape the neck
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Removed the bulk of the material for the first facets using a 45 degree chamfer bit on the router. Since I now have an oscillating belt/spindle sander, I’m hoping the rough shaping will be a little less blister-inducing.
 

Bob J

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I just looked back at the “rules”, and it looks like I’ve already taken too long (I’m over 4 months in), so I guess I’m disqualified 🙁.

No prize for me (other than a pretty cool esquire if I ever finish it 😀).
 




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