Bob J’s 2021 brotherhood build - thinline

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Bob J, Mar 5, 2021.

  1. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    The measurement is nice but the important thing is where the fret plane hits the bridge that you will be using. If it just hits the tops of the saddles at their very lowest setting then you should have enough adjustment to get acceptable action and have some wiggle for the future.
     
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  2. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Meister

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    The bridge should arrive tomorrow. I’ll be sure to check it. My kit build set up just right following Freeman’s instructions, so those of you following along should check out his other posts. Lots of sound advice!
     
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  3. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Meister

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    More progress, cut the hole in the top for the controls, and routed a notch for the heel adjuster. IMG_3306.jpeg
    Now for the part that gave me such fits on my kit build (other than the finish). The jack hole.
    IMG_3307.jpeg
    Marked
    IMG_3308.jpeg
    Started to drill...
    I want the lip to sit flush with the edge, so it needs to be countersunk at 1", and 7/8" down the middle. I'm getting some wander with my 1" forstner bit using my hand drill, but my 8" bench top drill press is too small. Unless...
    IMG_3309.jpeg
    I unbolt it from the base and rotate it 120 degrees...
    clamp the body vertically to the bench using blocks and clamps...
    IMG_3312.jpeg
    Still wanders, and off center.

    Any ideas for a fix, and how to avoid this? I ended up using the plate-style jack that came with my kit for that build, I would prefer to use the cup style...
     
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  4. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Meister

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    I suppose I could cut a flat area where the jack is (like some vintage teles), make a 1" circle template for the router, secure it in place to the body, and cut a chamfer for the lip of the jack cup with the router...
     
  5. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    I got my Forstner bits from Lowes, a Porter-Cable set. The 1" bit in my 3/8" DeWalt drill does a fine job. I can't stand that flat spot lol
     
  6. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Meister

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    And...........


    Tearout.
    IMG_3313.jpeg
    Didn't think about downhill routing.

    On the bright side, I haven't seriously injured myself on this build (yet), and the Doug Fir I used for the body was free.

    Also I don't have COVID, and I have a job with enough flexibility to work on this project from time to time. so really life is good.

    I think I will finish with this little procedure as planned, and just figure out a way to patch it without it looking too ugly. Going with a transparent finish on this one so I can't hide it under paint.
     
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  7. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Meister

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    It could be my cheap bits (harbor freight), cheap wood, and in general my cheapness that is the problem.

    I don't care for the flat spot either, but as you see, it is too late nowo_O

    Maybe my son won't mind (have decided to build it for his birthday present, as he inspired me with the pickups and color choices. I don't need another guitar (or so I'm told).
     
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  8. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    Cheap ain't really an excuse, my set was only $20 lol.
    Don't need another guitar? :lol:
     
  9. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Meister

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    That’s what I hear.

    New question, flush ferrules or countersunk?

    I purposely looked at GC today (not because I need another guitar) at the teles they had on the wall, the Squires had countersunk string ferrules, the Fenders did not (the flange of the ferrules sit proud of the surface. Given how little meat there is between the ferrules anyway, and how easy this Doug Fir likes to tear out I’m thinking let them stick out. I counter sunk them on my kit build, but was sweating the entire operation.

    thoughts?
     
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  10. wadeeinkauf

    wadeeinkauf Tele-Afflicted

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    My electric drill has a level built in. Clamp the body down on a level bench and hold the drill level using the built-in level. If your drill does not have a level a line level taped to it may do the trick. Run the drill backwards until you get down 1/8 of an inch or deeper to get the hole started then reverse it back to normal. As for the tear out. It doesn’t look very deep. I would hand sand a recess around the jack. It will look just like it was planned. Great job on the build it looks really nice.
     
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  11. tewiq

    tewiq Tele-Meister

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  12. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Meister

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    Thanks for the advice. I’m thinking of filling the gap with sawdust and CA glue.

    Now that parts are starting to arrive, here is an early mock-up.
    20BD2FAA-3267-42AB-9832-FB000A8D01FB.jpeg
    Getting pretty excited!
     
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  13. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Meister

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    Used an x-Acto knife to carve the countersink.
    IMG_3317.jpeg
    Squeezed the jack cup into the finger from a nitrile glove, made some fresh sawdust from the exact piece of lumber that I cut the body from...
    IMG_3320.jpeg
    CA glue and sawdust. With any luck it will harden up reasonably.
    IMG_3321.jpeg
    This wood is interesting. The difference in hardness between the light and dark graininess is HUGE. Hopefully I will be able to get a smooth finish on it.
     
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  14. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Meister

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    And did I mention how satisfying it is to shape a neck?
    IMG_3323.jpeg
    The rasp/file process was a little daunting, but once I put a fresh disk of 100 grit on the random orbit sander, I discovered a whole new level of joy! Trying to take it slow, awfully hard to put the wood back on once it is sanded off. Going for that soft V-shape, almost there...
     
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  15. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Meister

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    image.jpg
    This arrived today, have never tried it before as grain filler. Think I should try it on some scrap first?

    also,
    Working on transitions…
    07CC7202-0B0F-4599-B912-7440D43F26AA.jpeg
    AAA5910F-F284-4965-A5FC-0E93306385A8.jpeg
     
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  16. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    I recommend doing any unknown finishing operation on scrap. Also try putting what ever your top finish will be on the scrap with your epoxy experiment. I have had very good luck with nitro and waterborn lacquer, but thats all I've tried. If you haven't seen it you might glance through this

    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/zpoxy-for-pore-fill-and-grain-enhancement.940522/
     
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  17. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Meister

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    Thanks, I have scrap samples of the maple from the neck, ash and Doug fir from the body. I plan to tint the whole thing with amber shellac, fill at least the ash with a couple applications of zpoxy, and finish with Mohawk string instrument lacquer (spray can). I’ll get started on the scraps while I continue sanding the neck and body.
     
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  18. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    received_368659614296083.jpeg

    Under the right circumstances that can be a killer final finish. Yes that is red oak ;)
     
  19. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    Looking good. Personally though I'd round off the point of the headstock transition and integrate it more but that's a personal thing. It looks a little sharp to be comfortable.
     
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  20. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Meister

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    Thanks, I’m trying to take it slow, hard to put it back if I sand off too much! I haven’t played too many teles, so I’m going by pictures for the most part.
     
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