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Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Boolywho, Jan 25, 2011.
For 3 dollars...get bottle and try it out.
Its thicker, dries quicker, and sands easier - Like most sealers.
And yes, a lot of "spit" coat sealers are just thinned down versions of the clear in order for it to penetrate into the sponge like structure of the wood and harden to prevent following coats from being sucked up like a sponge.
Just an FYI to anyone who's interested... After reading the bottle, I've learned that Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler contains xylene and toluene . This means that it's unadvisable (for health reasons) to apply it with bare skin, as was recommended by a few members above (though I mean no offense to those helpful posters!).
With that said, these two solvents aren't the worst thing in the world, so if any of you have applied this sealer with your bare fingers, I wouldn't be too worried about it.
Still, I'm gloving up before applying it.
If you do decide to wear gloves, I would advise the use of nitrile gloves if possible, as this will provide better protection against solvents like toluene and xylene than latex will.
I hope this helps anyone interested in using BC Sealer & Filler!
The MSDS says mildy irritating with prolonged exposure. Says the same thing about Tru Oil. BC recommends PVA or natural rubber gloves for Tru Oil and PVA or PE/EVAL gloves for Sealer Filler.
I have fairly sensitive skin, and I have never had any irritation using BC products. I am guessing some people are really sensitive, and BC recommends gloves now to prevent law suits. I have an old bottle of my dads, and the instructions on there is to apply with bare hands.
Yeah, that's not surprising. I'm sure many people never have any irritation issues when handling BC Sealer & Filler.
Still, excessive exposure to these solvents might have more insidious health effects, which is another reason one may want to glove up. Though, of course, these other health risks would more likely stem from inhalation than skin exposure...
Either way, I work in a lab and have easy access to gloves, so I just go ahead and glove up!
I am bringing this thread back from the dead.
Is there a curing time needed between the sealer and the True Oil?
Originally I was going to skip this step but I am thinking now if it helps the grain to become that more stunning, then it will be worth the extra few days.