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Billy Bo Palletcaster

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by RiversQC, Nov 28, 2020.

  1. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    What did you glue it with? Maybe not
     
  2. tvas22

    tvas22 Tele-Meister

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    Gutted! I'm sorry to see that.

    Out of interest, what is the name of the router bit used for the binding channel?
     
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  3. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    One possible save would be to remove the fretboard and replace the truss rod with a carbon fiber rod. My experience is that a well built electric guitar neck doesn't pull very much relief and I have never had to make big adjustments with a truss rod to get the action that I want. Electric guitars are close to classicals in tension, they don't have any metal in their necks.

    Or save the fretboard and make another neck.
     
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  4. RiversQC

    RiversQC Tele-Meister

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    The binding I glued with superglue. The fretboard to neck with titebond. Think the superglue will let go?

    Shopping in Canada, I found a solution at Lee Valley. Quoting their stock numbers (but you could use any comparably product elsewhere), I use a 1/2" flush trim bit (16j0908) with a smaller 3/8" bearing bit (16j9503). It will cut a 1/16" (1.5mm) binding channel. No need for a true 'specialty' binding bit.

    Thanks, Freeman. I would like to save the fretboard if possible to make another neck OR I might first try splicing in some wood, though I know some weakness might remain. Could always pry it apart after. In fact, if I did pry it apart, I could maybe even splice wood from the truss rod side...

    I appreciate all the suggestions, and hope you all have wonderful holidays!
     
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  5. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    Titebond will release with heat - I have removed a fretboard by heating it with the silicon blanket that I use for bending sides. I know that reaches temperatures between 250 and 300 F. I was able to work a couple of pallet knifes between the f/b and neck and get pretty clean separation. I have no idea what the binding or CA will do.

    As far as the truss rod - I don't remember what kind you used but if it was a double acting rod it will be pushing down at the nut and heel and up in the center. I'm afraid that will just blow out any patch you try to put in there. If it is a curved compression rod (Fender style) then it is pulling the head end of the neck back towards the body - that might be a little less prone to future problems but I would still worry. My idea of the CF bar was to get rid of the truss rod entirely.
     
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  6. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    Interesting, I use the same type and size of router bit for binding. Regarding removing, the only way I've ever done that is a new, sharp exacto blade, the one with a long tapering edge. Granted I've never tried that with CA but plastic binding is a thorn either way. Can't really heat it it will stretch and break. Just be careful, take your time and either way you learn something and MAY get your binding back
     
  7. betocool

    betocool Tele-Meister

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    I like your build and the pictures. And your mentality of using scrap. Most my builds lately are from house renovation rests and verge wood. In Oz, Jarrah is a beautiful dark and hard wood, and I have some nice pieces from some old house walls from the 60's or so I've been told. Makes for great fretboards. Not so gentle on the tools though...

    I'm sorry about the mishap, I feel your pain. I had that on my first build a few years back. Managed to "fix" it, but then again, I build a new neck after all. Now I always measure the depth of the truss rod cavity against the neck thickness just in case.

    Good luck with the rest! I'm keen to see the end product.

    Cheers,

    Alberto
     
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  8. RiversQC

    RiversQC Tele-Meister

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    Hey folks, sorry for the extended absence. Hope you all are doing well.

    In my week off after christmas I made a second neck. Then, I think, ruined it. (It was going really well until I used my bandsaw to cut taper, and it took a bite. Dont want a too-thin neck, or worse, another sand through). Sometimes you just get to fighting it, eh?

    So taking a slight break, but I do want to finish this one and will be back at it with an update soon.

    20201230_121826.jpg

    20210101_105602.jpg

    20210102_134101.jpg
     
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  9. RiversQC

    RiversQC Tele-Meister

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    I've been puttering on this build so time to post an update. In my defense I have mostly been hibernating as most of January and February have been way too cold to woodwork outside. Pretty though! And days are starting to get warmer.

    20210225_075958.jpg

    While the body has been done for a while I'm on to neck #3 :eek:
    • First one was great and almost done but a sand through
    • Second one was coming along well but screwed up the taper; abandoned.
    • Third one is coming along. I won't be tapering it much if at all!
    So to fast forward through the similar steps as last time, I cut a scarf, glued it, leveled, truss rod, added a heel block, and shaped:

    20210228_084523.jpg

    20210228_084603.jpg

    20210228_084729.jpg

    20210228_084757.jpg

    I also started a new fretboard for neck #2 but didnt glue it on, so using that one here. I again did similar fret cutting and added binding:

    20210228_084654.jpg

    I have certainly found that it's easier to build a mortise for an existing neck tenon than the other way around. As I shaped the tenon on this neck it was pretty delicate work to get it to sit in snug and even, but I think I've got it:

    20210228_082409.jpg

    (You can see I tried to do the angled 'cheeks' where the neck meets the body, which I will sand back for a nice joint - hopefully!)

    At this point the geometry all seems to work, with the string plane hitting a stand-in for my bridge.

    20210227_144026.jpg

    I'll try to get the neck assembled and carved soon so keep the progress going.
     
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