Bigsby B5 front roller bar upgrade - Callaham vs Bricks Biggs Fix

[horseman308]

Short version: does anyone know of any major difference between the Callaham roller bar upgrade vs the Bricks Biggs Fix, besides the string grooves?

https://www.callahamguitars.com/bigsby_bridge_frontrollerkit_catalog.htm

vs

(link removed)

Long version: I need to replace the front roller/tension bar on the B5 of my Thinline. I have no tuning issues, but I find that the unwound strings, and especially the 3rd string, are a little dead-sounding (most notably when new). I think I've isolated the problem to the roller bar. When swapping it out (I have a spare one from when I put a Bricks Biggs Fix on the B7 of my LP) for the other, one stock roller bar notably improved - but did not eliminate - the dead-sounding nature of the strings.

As mentioned, I have a Bricks Biggs Fix on my LP and love it. The Callaham has those pretty string grooves, but I don't really have tuning problems and wonder if it's worth twice the price.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[El Tele Lobo]

I never liked those front roller bars. I had an Aria copy of a Gretsch Tennessee Rose and always strung it up without using the front roller. Worked fine. Good enough for Chet and Setzer...good enough for me.

 

[horseman308]

I never liked those front roller bars. I had an Aria copy of a Gretsch Tennessee Rose and always strung it up without using the front roller. Worked fine. Good enough for Chet and Setzer...good enough for me.

Doesn't really work on a Tele, though. Not enough angle to keep the strings on the saddle.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[BorderRadio]

The Biggsfix will do you no good on a Tele, as the BF is designed to reduce the break angle behind the bridge. On a Tele, the break angle is optimal as-is with a B5, or can be made so with a small shim. Any less break angle and you’ll likely have a few additional problems.

I use the Callaham and owned a Biggsfix. Both are quality replacements. The Callaham is nice, but has no friction reducing qualities, it’s steel on steel. I used tri-lube on mine. If the solid bar adds sustain, I wouldn’t know but that is part of the marketing. It keeps strings in line, when I needed that aspect, but I don’t with my current saddles.

I think it’s a saddle problem to be honest. I have no problems with dead strings on with my B5-equipped Tele or Starcaster. They actually have lots of sustain and ‘resonance’.

What’s your saddle situation?

 

[horseman308]

The Biggsfix will do you no good on a Tele, as the BF is designed to reduce the break angle behind the bridge. On a Tele, the break angle is optimal as-is with a B5, or can be made so with a small shim. Any less break angle and you’ll likely have a few additional problems.

I use the Callaham and owned a Biggsfix. Both are quality replacements. The Callaham is nice, but has no friction reducing qualities, it’s steel on steel. I used tri-lube on mine. If the solid bar adds sustain, I wouldn’t know but that is part of the marketing. It keeps strings in line, when I needed that aspect, but I don’t with my current saddles.

I think it’s a saddle problem to be honest. I have no problems with dead strings on with my B5-equipped Tele or Starcaster. They actually have lots of sustain and ‘resonance’.

What’s your saddle situation?

For saddles, I've used both brass and steel compensated barrels from Philadelphia Luthier Supply. Both are good quality and sound great without the Bigsby. I get the same dead-string result with either one, so it's not the saddles. I get the same basic issue regardless of where I fret, so it's not the nut. I've shimmed the Bigsby and done it flat on the body; same result, so it's not the angle itself.

I know the standard Biggs Fix isn't for Teles. I'm looking at the roller-bar only from either Biggs or Callaham, as both claim that the solid steel provides better sustain and frequency response than the stock hollow aluminum tube. I had good results with the tone of of the Biggs on my LP, so I have good reason to think that would work, but I'm curious whether the extra $20 for a Callaham gets me anything more besides string grooves.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[joeford]

i think just about any callaham part is a noticeable upgrade... even if just in craftsmanship. i think the callaham roller is definitely worth the extra bucks. my old bigsby front roller would vibrate a bit when i strummed hard, where this one is dead silent (it's one chunk of metal). i think the string guides have helped a bit with tuning and string life too since everything is nice and centered. and the string-through mounting is infinitely easier to change strings on

 

[BorderRadio]

For saddles, I've used both brass and steel compensated barrels from Philadelphia Luthier Supply. Both are good quality and sound great without the Bigsby. I get the same dead-string result with either one, so it's not the saddles. I get the same basic issue regardless of where I fret, so it's not the nut. I've shimmed the Bigsby and done it flat on the body; same result, so it's not the angle itself.

I know the standard Biggs Fix isn't for Teles. I'm looking at the roller-bar only from either Biggs or Callaham, as both claim that the solid steel provides better sustain and frequency response than the stock hollow aluminum tube. I had good results with the tone of of the Biggs on my LP, so I have good reason to think that would work, but I'm curious whether the extra $20 for a Callaham gets me anything more besides string grooves.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Got those saddles, don't use them with a Bigsby, but I have used them on a modified Jazzmaster bridge. Some of my favorite saddles actually, mainly for the price. To be sure, you have used those Philly saddles as string through and never had that problem? Can you swap that string back into the body of the same guitar?

I don't buy that solid bar stuff. It's functions as a wolf tone killer and holds the strings at an increased break angle while rolling with string movement, nothing more. What I do recommend for sustain and tone is a solid bar bridge, but I digress. I do think a solid roller bar will distort less and potentially produce less friction than a deformed B5/B7 tension/roller bar. Definitely much better over the cheapo nylon bushings used in B50/B70s.

I bought the Callaham wanting to believe the marketing, but it's likely just me projecting my wallet, TBH. I have B5s and used B7s before, along with a dozen other non-roller Bigsby models, and the bridge matters more. Dead strings were always a seating issue in the bridge or nut, never about what the string was attached to at the ends, but clearly YMMV. Break angle does matter, 7-9 degrees is best, but there is a healthy margin of error. Also, the Callaham is steel on steel, no bearing, so potential for binding. I keep mine on because I bought it so I have to wear it

I could of swore the Biggs I had was still mostly hollow with bearings on the end instead of bronze oil-impregnated bushings. If it is indeed more solid now, with the new mounting design, and you're set on trying something like that, then the Biggs has the advantage over the Callaham because of the bearings. You don't need the string guides with the Philly saddles.

Here's my current B5 situations. The Tele has creme de la creme parts, Mastery 4.1, Callaham roller, Mastery string tree, bone nut, and I drilled out the original string bar, as well as installed a Chet handle bracket for 360 degree arm movement for those Kevin Shields moves. I can dive bomb this thing and come back to pitch within a few cents or less. The B5 on the Starcaster is stock, hollow roller, but a sold brass d-bridge. More sustain than the stock hard-tail piece, if you can believe it. I doubt I'll get anything more toneful by buying an aftermarket roller. Neither set up has anything close to dead strings.

 

[horseman308]

Yeah, I use to run the strings through the body with those Philly saddles before putting on the Bigsby. Rang like bell on all 6 strings. Now it rings like a bell on the 3 wound strings, like a muffled bell on the other 3.

I also forgot to mention that I had the exact same issue when that same Bigsby was on a different Tele. So, I feel pretty confident it's an issue with that Bigsby unit.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[Boreas]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but here goes. This is what I started to do with B50s. I install two 1/4 X 3/8 X 1/4 inch FLANGED bearings. Through Fast Eddie they cost about $10 for 10 bearings. (SEE PIX).

I remove the roller and bushings. I then polish the axle with steel wool or whatever. Then I take a tapered reamer to the outside of each orifice and remove JUST enough material to allow you to friction-fit the flanged bearing into place (It doesn't take much. Remove too much and you will need to glue the bearing into place!). Make sure both are seated squarely then replace the axle. That sucker should really spin now. TriFlow is a good lubricant. This modification decreases the break angle as well as significantly reduces friction. I have done it on two B50s and both are much more stable with returning back to pitch. Your results may vary. But it is a CHEAP improvement!!

 

[horseman308]

Great fix. I ended up going with a sealed-bearing tension bar from Bricks. I also made a bone nut, and that fixed my issue with the dead strings.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk