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Best way to bring gold tones out of mahogany?

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by ebb soul, Jul 5, 2018.

  1. ebb soul

    ebb soul Poster Extraordinaire

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    Rather than the typical reddish hues.
    I have a quartersawn body blank, the checkered lighter streaks have potential to bling gold.
    Do I use a tint?
    Thanx.
     
  2. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Platinum Supporter

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    Sanding sealer, dye, and tinted paste wood filler (like Mohawk's).

    Always test everything - from prep to polishing - on some scrap that's as close to the same as you can find before you do anything to the actual piece.
     
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  3. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

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    I've used Behlens Por O Pac solvent based filler (mahogany tint) , sealer and clear lacquer . With the right piece of mahogany those lighter bands do have a golden glimmer to them .
    This one was African mahogany

    [​IMG]
     
  4. ebb soul

    ebb soul Poster Extraordinaire

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    That's very nice.
     
  5. ebb soul

    ebb soul Poster Extraordinaire

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    In that order?
     
  6. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

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    I would think dye, sanding sealer, pore filler, then more sanding sealer and then clear?
    Am I close?

    I have some sappele that has that braided swirly grain that sparkles it's more of a skin color. I think I might shift it more to the yellow side of things to get that bling too.

    Where's the wood porn ebb?
     
  7. ebb soul

    ebb soul Poster Extraordinaire

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    20180706_104207.jpg 20180706_104224.jpg
     
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  8. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

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    Love it!

    That's pretty much what the pieces I have look like. Beautiful!
     
  9. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Platinum Supporter

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    As far as getting the basic color, yes. There would still likely be a toner or two to fine-tune the color, clear coats and polishing.

    The reason for sanding sealer before dye is for color control. If a dye mix is applied directly more porous sections of the grain may absorb more pigment than you want - with sanding sealer you still have some level of control, using solvent wipe to "pull" color back out before it gets too deep. Without sealer the dye absorbs quickly - and permanently.

    And again, all this should be practiced start to finish before working on the real thing. That way you can prevent potential problems, know what to expect and if questions come up get them answered before a mistake is made.
     
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  10. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

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    I had wondered about this and it's actual impact on the color. Good to know, rather understand. I can see how it would aid in that way.
    That's the first explanation of that technique, for me, where I completely understand. :rolleyes: It's probably been conveyed in at least 2 dozen threads but this just clicked. :D Thanks for that.
     
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  11. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Sapele is another variety of mahogany with a great ribbon stripe. Stay away from traditional red mahogany stain and look for something that's more of a golden or brown mahogany, and maybe thin down the stain to control the effect - you don't need much. Also I find that the slightest amount of warmth or amber tone to the topcoat (or at least the sealer coats) helps with "chatoyance" (fancy cooking term - remember Emeril?) to bring out the shimmer in mahogany.

    And yes, your schedule works. Dye is applied first to final-sanded wood. Maybe you have to knock off the fuzzies of raised grain from the water or alcohol solvent in the dye - no problem a grey (600 grit) scotch brite will do the trick. Sanding sealer from there - keeps the dye from bleeding up into the next step, and makes it easier to apply the filler if there's a nice flat smooth base. Sand the sanding sealer because it absorbs unevenly, but don't cut back too much material or you'll need to touch up the stain (don't ask me how I know that). Then the grain filler. Then probably grain filler again. Sand back and try the sealer. You'll start to know if the grain divots are filled. Maybe touch up the grain filler, never too late for that. sand back if you did. Then start clear. Sounds a lot worse than it really is, but I have a talent for making things sound complicated.
     
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  12. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Platinum Supporter

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    :lol:

    As do I.

    It's not that complicated *if* one practices n scrap wood first. Once the procedure is perfected it's not all that difficult.
     
  13. DrBGood

    DrBGood Tele-Holic

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    Best way to bring gold tones out of mahogany?

    I was gonna say tone is in the fingers, but this is not about those kind of tones I guess. But still, I was curious to see how gold tones were going to be described.
     
  14. Widerange Hum

    Widerange Hum Tele-Holic

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    Honey Amber transtint does very nicely. Transparent grain fill and seal, then honey amber lacquer, maybe with just a dab of coffee brown in it to add a little complexity.
     
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