Best (safest) way to enlarge this hole?

[tkcrabby]

It's the hole that my G&L Asat Classic Semi Hollow's output jack was in and I am NOT going to replace it with another one like it,, I want to use one of the football shaped ones with a run of the mill 1/4" mono jack, problem is the hole for the original is much too small for the 1/4" jack to fit into,,,,,,,,,so, should I drill it out all at once with a larger bit that is a little larger than the new jack? OR a little at a time , using a slightly larger bit each time till it's big enough (I think may be the best idea)? OR use a Dremel Rotary Tool with a rasp attachment in it to grind it out a little at the time?

 

[unclearty]

Personally, I'd use the Dremel tool.....you can gradually open it up to where the jack fits perfectly. It also will help cut down on splintering the edges of the hole.

 

[FrankB]

tape the loutside end of the hole, and use slightly larger bits until you are at the size you need to istall the new jack.

 

[Tom S]

I would replace it with the same part if it was me. But if you are comitted to installing a different jack and need to drill the hole, you will probably get the best results by first finding a dowel that fits the hole you have, glueing it in and then drilling a new, larger hole in one pass with the proper-sized drill bit. I'd tape it first to minimize the possibliity of marring the finish around the hole, and use a very sharp (read: new) drill bit. A Forstner bit is probably the best choice.

All other methods are almost certain to result in an uneven mess. Using progressively larger drill bits will be very inaccurate, because you won't have any wood in which to center the bit. This goes double if you are using a hand-held drill rather than a drill press. Using a Dremel to gouge out a circular opening is virtually guaranteed to provide an ugly, irregular result.

By the way, If you're going in this direction, I'd also recommend an electrosocket over the football-type jack, as the latter always looks like a bad patch job on a tele. Just my opinion of course.

 

[Jack Wells]

I'm with ole Tom on this one. Replace it with the same type jack. You could really screw up a nice guitar. If you don't have a drill press and are thinking of doing it with a hand drill ............ fagitaboudit. Here's how I drill jack holes.

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The drill press table has been swung out of the way to the left and locked in place. The upper wooden screw clamp is clamped to the drill press table. The lower screw clamp helps to keep the body vertical during the setup. With all clamps tight, the body is very rigid with respect to the drill press. I'm using a 7/8 inch Forstner bit.

 

[Telehotrodded]

Listen to Tom S, it's the best advice.

 

[tkcrabby]

Thanks for the replies guys,,,,,,,,,,,

"I would replace it with the same part if it was me." I do have the same parts BUT the wood was threaded to receive the jack by screwing the jack into the hole BUT the wood threads are stripped so I figured I'd replace it with the football type,,,,,,,, I like the looks of this type better than the normal Tele "cup" type.
It is a VERY nice guitar so, I want to make as sure as possible that it's done without any damage to the guitar.

 

[Tom S]

Thanks for the replies guys,,,,,,,,,,,

"I would replace it with the same part if it was me." I do have the same parts BUT the wood was threaded to receive the jack by screwing the jack into the hole BUT the wood threads are stripped so I figured I'd replace it with the football type,,,,,,,, I like the looks of this type better than the normal Tele "cup" type.
It is a VERY nice guitar so, I want to make as sure as possible that it's done without any damage to the guitar.

I guess I'm not familiar enough with the specific jack your guitar came with, or its installation method. I can't remember the jack on the G&L I had. Do you happen to have a photo of the parts and the guitar?

Threading wood to accept metal or plastic parts is a dubious technique in my opinion. Was there no other way that the jack was attached, like a nut in the control cavity? It seems odd that G&L would rely solely on the jack being threaded into the body, but I could be totally wrong.

Hopefully someone with better knowledge of that particular jack can chime in. Jack? You have some G&Ls, right?

Just thinking about this, there might be a slim possibility that you can still use the correct part, by either taping the threads on the jack to enlarge the outside diameter so it can be treaded into the existing wood (questionable), or by modifying it so that it can be secured from the inside.

I have no idea if those ideas can work at this point, but the objective would be to attempt to do no damage to the guitar. Any drilling will increase the potential for damage, obviously.

 

[Jack Wells]

Here's a G&L jack on an ASAT Classic.

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Here's the G&L jack ........... $11 from G&L.

....................................image removed

Here's one from Stew-Mac........... $6.90. Fits in a 1/2 in. hole.

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If your present jack is working but loose, a little E-6000 or Goop Household would keep it in but allow it to be removed later if need be.

 

[tkcrabby]

Yes sir, that's it, except that mine has a cavity in the control plate hole because it's a Asat Classic Semi Hollow,,,,,,,,,,,,, The new one I have is the one from "stew mac" but it's too loose to go in there and stay now.
I really don't know what would be best,, I don't have a drill press so,,, darn, I don't know.
I really need to get this one back up and running,,,,,,,,,,,, right now I'm leaning toward using a Dremel on it ,,, doesn't matter a lot if it's not perfect inside , no one will see it unless they're changing the output jack again and this guitar has a third pickups added in the middle (not by me) and it is NOT a neat job,,,,, but you can't tell unless you take off the pickguard.

Any other ideas?

 

[Tom S]

Yes sir, that's it, except that mine has a cavity in the control plate hole because it's a Asat Classic Semi Hollow,,,,,,,,,,,,, The new one I have is the one from "stew mac" but it's too loose to go in there and stay now.
I really don't know what would be best,, I don't have a drill press so,,, darn, I don't know.
I really need to get this one back up and running,,,,,,,,,,,, right now I'm leaning toward using a Dremel on it ,,, doesn't matter a lot if it's not perfect inside , no one will see it unless they're changing the output jack again and this guitar has a third pickups added in the middle (not by me) and it is NOT a neat job,,,,, but you can't tell unless you take off the pickguard.

Any other ideas?

Thanks for the photos, Jack. That G&L was really just threaded into the body wood? Yikes.

So the Stew-Mac jack isn't long enough to be secured with a nut from the inside?

 

[Jack Wells]

That G&L was really just threaded into the body wood? Yikes.

So the Stew-Mac jack isn't long enough to be secured with a nut from the inside?

Yep .......... just screwed in. I guess they solder wires onto the jack .......... screw it in ........ then solder the wires to the pots. I've heard you almost have to destroy the jack to remove it. You could probably use an EZ-Out without too much damage. I measured the length of the hole and it's just over 2 inches so you couldn't use the nut on the Stew-Mac jack.

 

[tkcrabby]

Yes, I think it's just about the most incredibly stupid way of putting an output jack in a guitar,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,IMHO. There's NOT very much of the jack to get a hold of with pliers and NO nut so unless you're VERY good or VERY lucky you'll do like me and scratch the finish when the pliers slip off the jack about 15-20 times during the unscrew process,,,,,,,,,,,, I said I'd not put one back in the same way,,,,,,,, ain't happen' , nope, no way! I'll do somethin' but it won't be that.........

 

[Tom S]

Hmmm...well, it looks like maybe a new hole will have to go into that G&L. The best I can come up with at the moment is the dowel then drill idea. If you're really careful with the Forstner bit, you should be able to make a fairly clean hole, even without a drill press (he says hesitantly). I'd clamp the body first to keep everything as solid as possible.

Any other ideas?

Btw, if you go this way, tkcrabby, I still recommend an electrosocket. It's a very good design, looks like it belongs, and most people would view it as a bonus if you ever sell the guitar.

 

[tkcrabby]

Are all "electrosocket's" the same size and if so, exactly what size hole would the "electrosocket" require?

 

[Tom S]

I believe they are al the same. They fit into a standard tele jack hole...7/8" diameter.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Hardware,_parts/Bass:_Covers_plates/Electrosocket_Jack_Plates.html

 

[Jack Wells]

Electrosockets require a 7/8 diameter hole. I've bought all my G&Ls used. I was looking at them and a couple have the football jack plate. The original owners probably did like you and tried to remove the jack with pliers and scarred up the body and decided to hide it with the football.

FYI ........ here's a FAQ from the G&L Forum.

How do I remove the output jack from my ASAT-style guitar? (Answer based on a G&LDP post submitted by: Tom Eskridge)

The tool to use is called a wood reamer and is available at most any hardware store. No need to order one. But first, take off the control plate and look to see if your jack is held in place with a nut. If so, you will have to remove it. WARNING! DO NOT USE VICE GRIPS UNLESS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY, as doing so will risk scratching your guitar!

After removing the internal nut (if any), insert the "pointy" end of the reamer into the jack just like you would the plug on your cord. Shove it in tight and turn the "T" shaped handle in a counter-clockwise direction. The teeth on the edges of the reamer will dig into the inside of the jack thereby forcing it to turn out and be removed.
You will most likely notice a string that has been inserted running the length of the jack. This string is used to give it a tighter fit in the models where an internal nut is not used. Before replacing the new jack run a short piece of kite string through the hole; leave plenty of extra length on the inside and outside (this can be trimmed later).
Replace the jack with another Switchcraft brand inline stereo jack available from well stocked music stores or electronics supply stores (editor's note: we'll try get the precise part number for the jack here shortly). DON'T FORGET THE FELT WASHER (if your guitar has one). When re-soldering, use a low-wattage iron (preferably a 30-watt iron), and be sure to use rosin core solder. The guys at Radio Shack can help with this.
"Seat" the new jack by driving it back into the hole with a rubber mallet - or, alternatively, you can use a regular hammer if you place something over the jack to protect it. Folded cloth, rubber, or cardboard will work.

Once you do it once, it's really easy and quick. The toughest part is accepting the fact that you will have to destroy the original jack in the removal process. Just remember that it's already ruined and cannot be fixed anyway.

 

[tkcrabby]

How about one of these if I wanted chrome?

http://store.guitarfetish.com/chelstteoucu.html

 

[Jack Wells]

I think that's a Korean copy ........... probably just as good.

 

[popthree]

If you're really careful with the Forstner bit, you should be able to make a fairly clean hole, even without a drill press (he says hesitantly). I'd clamp the body first to keep everything as solid as possible.

Any other ideas?

Yikes, find a friend or a woodshop wtih a nice big drill press. A Forstner can jump on you in a heartbeat, when going by hand.