Best clear epoxy to fill cracks

[MikeB33]

Hey guys! Just bought this awesome 175+ year old piece of chestnut. Having my buddy plane it down for me so I can cut it up and do some gluing for a body blank. I'm sure that some of the cracks and worm holes will still be there once I get my final thickness. I am debating on whether or not to fill then wit clear epoxy. I'm doing a tru oil finish and I'd like to still see the cracks but just keep them from being filled with misc dirt. Any thoughts?

 

[metecem]

If they aren't too deep or structural cracks I'd tale rather CA glue.

If you have to use epoxy, take a look at West Systems Epoxy. They are very popular.

You could as well take Z-Poxy to fill grain and some cracks.

 

[OpenG Capo4]

Leave the worm holes unfilled.

As far as cracks, you might fill them with titebond and clamp.

If the cracks are deep and structural, you might consider just using the old wood as a top over a more stable body slab.

(image removed)

According to family lore this wood is 190 years old, and was part of a building my uncles tore down. It was brittle and had several cracks that went all the way through. I thinned some titebond with water and injected it into the cracks, pulled it together with clamps to get it stabilized. I used it as a top over a plain pine body.

 

[lbridenstine]

System 3 - Mirror Coat Epoxy is good for a clear, assuming that it doesn't need to be structural epoxy A.K.A. you just want to fill it so it's level and not to hold it together. It's a "counter/bar top finish" and you can just mix it and pour it on, then spread it around and it will self-level, but make sure to cover the surrounding areas well before using it because it can get messy.

 

[printer2]

The West Systems epoxy seems popular. I picked up some Z-Poxy amd then found out it can shrink over time. I have not seen it yet, just heard from acoustic guitar makers.

 

[drmcclainphd]

No question, Premium No Blush from http://epoxyproducts.com/. No shrinkage or cracking, no yellowing with sun or age, non-hazmat meaning it's safer to use and cheaper to ship to you. Most "popular" epoxies are hobbyist products and are used on things that don't last long enough to gauge how well the epoxy ages. People build and coat boats with this stuff. I've built many parts as well as entire airframes for rockets, using this for composite material lay-ups. I've built large speaker cabs and furniture with it, and finished furniture and guitars. The web site, while not particularly conveniently laid out, is a wealth of information, and what it doesn't tell you, the owner is happy to. Other people who have tried other products, once they find this stuff, stick with it.

 

[Ronkirn]

any good epoxy will do the trick... but... here's a trick to facilitate the process.... warm the wood... then mix the epoxy and warm that.... it will be like poring water... it will flow deeply into the crevices....

just practice first because the heat will speed up the hardening... and if ya get it get too hot, it will "cook" the epoxy..

Ron Kirn

 

[rscalzi]

any good epoxy will do the trick... but... here's a trick to facilitate the process.... warm the wood... then mix the epoxy and warm that.... it will be like poring water... it will flow deeply into the crevices....

just practice first because the heat will speed up the hardening... and if ya get it get too hot, it will "cook" the epoxy..

Ron Kirn

Now there's a tip I wish I would have known about a year ago

 

[Nick JD]

Any epoxy resin will work. If you want to have less yellowing track down an epoxy designed for the surfboard industry.