Best Build Tip

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by bolt5, Dec 27, 2008.

  1. bolt5

    bolt5 TDPRI Member

    Dec 27, 2008
    Boston area
    Just finished a partscaster. This lifesaver tip for me came from Dan Erlewine's excellent book. You can easily steam dings out of bare wood by placing a damp rag over the spot and touching with the tip of your soldering iron. I dropped our sanded and sealed body on the asphalt driveway and it looked pretty bad - I thought my poor son (father/son project) might not survive. After a little steaming and sanding it looked new and we were actually able to use the body with a clear finish.
  2. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County
    This is actually a general woodworking repair that I've known about at least since the mid 1970's when I first started woodworking. I used to keep an old iron just for that purpose. The wife would look at me a bit funny when I'd stick aluminum foil over the household iron to keep the resin off. You are correct though, it is a lifesaver some times. It is not 100 percent though. I've had dings that I've repeatedly steamed that didn't rise up all the way.
  3. Nick JD

    Nick JD Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

    May 12, 2007
    Queensland, Australia
    I've found there seems to be a relationship between wood density, moisture content and its steamability. Softwoods bounce back like those fabric softener commercials ... ebony? Fat chance. :D Luckily, it's much harder to dent the hardwoods.
  4. Zmatko

    Zmatko Tele-Meister

    Aug 26, 2008
    Sweden, now where's me rattle-can?
    It's quite interesting, i guess the oily woods have different properties since they are the heavier and usually darker woods.
    And when you heavily dry a darker wood, crack, whereas alder or wherelike only gets more tenacious.
  5. Colt W. Knight

    Colt W. Knight Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

    Jan 21, 2007
    Garland, Maine
    I borrowed that trick off one of Ron Kirn's build threads.

    One trick I like to share when working with pine bodies.

    Plane the blank - Sand flat with 60 grit. Clean the surface of dust and debris. Layer in blue tape before cutting and routing on the bottom side. This keeps the wood from denting on peices of wood caught under the body, dust/resin build up, and edges of the tables.
    Then after all the routing is done, I will blue tape one side again. I will then finish sand the untapped side and the side. Then apply sanding sealer to those sides. Then move to the tapped side. This time I place the sealer side on a towell. I didn't use a towell earlier because it gather too much saw dust and wood chips which will also dent the body. Now that you only have one side left, you wont be moving it around like when sanding the sides.
    I always put down a layer of blue tape though to protect the surface moving around on a table, even if the table is flat and smooth. Pine dents if you look at it funny, so don't take the chance.

    I also dont route the radiused edge until I have finish sanded and applied sanding sealer. Why you ask? Well pine is soft enough that its easy to sand flat spots in the radius, or chage the radius itself. Plus if you have a good router bit, you wont have to sand the radius you just routed. Where as if you do the finish sanding in one big whack, at least for me, you end up putting sanding marks in the routed smooth radius you just applied.
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