Bandsaw/Resaw Blade Quest

Discussion in 'The DIY Tool Shed' started by LeroyBlues, Nov 12, 2014.

  1. LeroyBlues

    LeroyBlues Tele-Holic

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    So I've taken the plunge and ordered a Grizzly bandsaw. It's a 14"-1hp- Polar Bear model. I ordered the extention so I can do resawing. I doubt I'll do much resawing, for guitar tops, but I think I resaw wood for fretboards. The saw will take a 105" blade, up to 3/4". The question is, what do you guys think is a good quality blade, brand, and tooth, for doing the ocassional 7" wood for tops. I'm thinking 6tpi will do, but give me some guidance please. Also, I really dont want to pop for top dollar blade, at this point. Thanks.
     
  2. CapnCrunch

    CapnCrunch Friend of Leo's

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    Timberwolf blades are hard to beat. Also, for resawing, Woodslicer blades from Highland Hardware online, are excellent.

    I would get a blade with no more than 4 TPI for re-sawing. Most cast 14" saws can only really tension up to a 1/2" blade. I use a 1/2" 3 TPI on my 14" saw.
     
  3. BruceF

    BruceF Tele-Meister

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    Luckily living near Highland Hardware I use Woodslicer. Quite good.
     
  4. LeroyBlues

    LeroyBlues Tele-Holic

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    Thanks, I'll check into those. So, will a 1/2" blade be fine?
     
  5. Flynztone

    Flynztone Tele-Holic

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    Leroy the 1/2" wood slicer is a great blade for resawing and that's exactly what I use as well
     
  6. Kennedycaster

    Kennedycaster Tele-Afflicted

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    I don't like Timberwolf at all. They are very sharp at first, but dull quicker than most due to being made from "swiss steel". Carbon steel blades seem to last the longest IMO. The best carbon steel blade I've used is Lennox. For resawing, try a 1/2" 3tpi.

    Bob
     
  7. LeroyBlues

    LeroyBlues Tele-Holic

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    So for cutting out tele bodies, am I better off using a 1/4" blade?
     
  8. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    If you want to negotiate the curves easily, yes. The alternative is to make straight relief cuts into your perimeter line and that radiate outward. Then as you cut around the curve, the pieces are cut off giving you the room you need to keep turning. If you are using 3/8 or 1/2, you'd have to do those cuts.
     
  9. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire

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    This is exactly my setup as well.
     
  10. CapnCrunch

    CapnCrunch Friend of Leo's

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    Why limit yourself to just one? I use a 3/16" blade for curves, and a 1/2" blade for resawing. It only takes a couple minutes to change between them. Don't forget to stone the backs of your blades. You can google that and see what I mean. You can do it with sandpaper adhered to a flat surface to round over and smooth the back corners of your blade. Makes cutting curves easier and prolongs the life of the blade.
     
  11. LeroyBlues

    LeroyBlues Tele-Holic

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    No, I'm not limiting myself, I'm ready to order blades, and want what works best. The saw conescwith a 3/8" blade, but on my small bandsaw, it would never cut the small curves of a tele body. So sounds like Id be good with a 1/2", for resawing, and a 3/16" for body cuts.
     
  12. CapnCrunch

    CapnCrunch Friend of Leo's

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    That's what I use. 3/16" is small enough to cut all the curves on a Tele body, if you prep the back of the blade. The tight curve at the top of the neck pocket is about the limit for a 3/16" blade.
     
  13. rowka

    rowka Tele-Meister

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    On my Rikon 14" I've tried 2 different Timberwolf 3/4" blades. On both I had to kick the bottom of the top wheel out to an extreme angle to get the tracking right.

    I didn't like that.
     
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