Balanced Telecaster Build (Blackguard Style)

jchabalk

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Joined
Mar 11, 2009
Posts
565
Location
Northern California
I put together a parts telecaster in 2019. It was my first build (assembly is probably the right term, right?) and while it turned out pretty good i never really liked it. I'd selected a bunch of nice parts and my body and neck were high-quality. It ended up being a pretty light build coming in at 6-3/4# when completed.

The big problem it had though is that i was pretty far out of balance; the body was really light and the neck was not. This resulted in bad neck dive which made it uncomfortable to play for any length of time. Even when seated the headstock always wanted to go to the ground. This wasn't something i'd anticipated when planning the guitar out - you just bolt everything together and "it works" right???

So i set out to build another tele back in December. I did a bunch of research here last year to make sure my approach for this guitar would solve the balance problem i had AND result in the guitar i wanted as i ended up not liking some of the choices i'd made the first time around. My plan was to reuse parts of my old one that i liked and change some of them out that didn't work well together.

Along the way i weighed every part to try and figure out how everything contributes to the weight of the final build.

The quick summary is that it turned out great and I'm really glad i did this. I ended up with a guitar that's well balanced on my lap or on a strap, that sounds amazing and plays easily. I spent a lot more time on assembly with this guitar making sure neck fit was as perfect as possible, screw holes were accurate, everything was straight and the lines were all clean. I'm really happy with it.

Here's a quick parts summary:
- BODY Guitar Mill Telecaster "ready to ship" w/ Butterscotch TruGrain finish: 68.8oz (body only)
- NECK Fender American Original 50s Telecaster Neck (Reverb): 24.7oz w/ Fender tuners and nut
- PARTS Mix of Callaham and Glendale parts, most of which i had although i went with a string-through bridge on this build.
- Don Mare Pickups: STelly Neck: 6.187ohm, SuperSport Bridge: 7.145ohm. I had these from several years ago and really loved how they sounded on my old build.

Here are the weights of parts i recorded in case this is useful to others - let me know if you have any questions
Guitar / ComponentWeight (oz)Comment
Finished Guitar Mill Body68.8
Copper Tape Shielding.2
Fender American Original 50s neck24.7incl: fender tuners + nut
Don Mare STelly (neck)2.7
Don Mare Super Sport (bridge)3.4
Glendale String Ferrules (6).5
Glendale top-loader double-cut bridge plate1.9
Brass saddles1
Glendale Neck plate2.2
Screws for neck plate -> body.5
Glendale Jack Cup.4
Switchcraft 1/4" jack.3
(2) Callaham Stainless strap buttons + screws.4
Callaham telecaster pickguard + 5 screws2.2lightly relic'd when i dropped it behind my desk
(2) 250k CTS pots1.1
(2) Glendale Dome knobs2.2


The completed neck weighed in at 24.7oz, the completed body weight is 88.3oz resulting in a total guitar weight of 116.1oz. There are ~3 oz. missing between the body weight and final total as i forgot to weigh the Glendale control plate and switch (and wire / solder ;) ).

The neck makes up 21% of the weight, and the body 79%, a ratio of 1:4.

On my previous out-of-balance build the neck was ~25% of the weight and the body ~75%, a ratio of 1:3.
So moving that relatively small bit of weight from the neck -> body changed the ratio in a significant way and resulted in a really well balanced guitar.

The other question that i'd been trying to find an answer to was how much weight gets added to the body when building a guitar (eg: if i buy a body that weighs N, how much is going to weigh when it's built out?) There's certainly some variance in which parts you end up choosing, but at least for this build the parts added 22.6oz to the finished body weight. In the end the body weight increased by ~33% - which is good to know when selecting a body.

A lot of this is probably pretty well known to the regular builders here, i was having a difficult time wrapping my head around it while trying to figure out my parts, especially since i don't do this much and i didn't want to end up with another guitar i didn't like ;)

Here are some pictures

Body detail right after i unpacked it. The "TruGrain" finish from Guitar Mill is very thin and they don't apply grain filler which you can see pretty clearly. I didn't set out looking for this finish but rather for a body in a particular weight range. That limited me to pre-made and pre-finished bodies (used or new) that had the weight published. This fit the bill on weight and color, and in person i really like it - so... score.

IMG_0721.jpeg




Inserting the string ferrules. I have a top-load bridge on this guitar, and so now have 2 options for stringing. You can see where i smacked the body a bit near the low-E ferrule. The fit was great (there's no way they're falling out but i didn't need to be too aggressive with driving them in either.
IMG_0795.jpeg





I removed that excess shielding tape prior to installing the bridge plate. Placing the neck pickup was the most difficult part of the whole thing. On my last build i got it close and it bothered me a bit every time i picked it up. I followed a few different methods for doing this that i found on the forum (bluetack to place and finishing nails to mark).
IMG_0803.jpeg



I spent a bunch of time on alignment and fitting everything (and sanding) before drilling any holes. This made for a really clean final guitar.
IMG_0831.jpeg


The color is a pretty light butterscotch in real life, but not this light. Apple Photos seems to be processing the image a bunch upon export.
IMG_0845.jpeg



Here's the relic job i did on my (formerly) perfect Callaham pickguard. I was putting it up on shelf above my workbench while i was building and after the ~37th time of taking it down to check fit it fell behind the shelf and crashed on the floor. Many words were uttered. ;)

IMG_0847.jpeg


I somehow managed to get the intonation perfect by just placing the saddles close to where i thought they'd need to be. Just got lucky. A minor action adjustment to get the radius right after finishing up was all that was needed.

IMG_0854.jpeg



Another picture of the open grain
IMG_0855.jpeg



Installing these jack cups make me nervous. I followed advice i found on the forum here this time: I opened the hole up with a bit of sanding so the cup fit ~1/3 of the way with hand pressure, then i waxed it and drove it home with a hammer, using a short screw driver inserted through the hole to protect the cup. It seated perfectly, definitely won't fall out, and the cup wasn't marred.
IMG_0858.jpeg
 

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telemnemonics

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Ahem ASSEMBLY yes!
Thanks for upholding that detail.
Looks very very nice.

Wow, I though I was obsessive with weighing parts!
My goal is light enough to not be in too much pain with a guitar on a strap.
Balance can be annoying but is secondary.
Curious what the imbalanced build had for body alone weight?

These two are OK but I aim for even lighter, my back just kerps getting worse and these are a few years old assemblies.
Both are Musikraft bodies but I just bought my first Guitar Mill body.
Note the Glendale Strate Plate.

DC0438BE-B57C-4AFC-A9CA-AB80AFFEE7CB.jpeg
7A816880-C000-464B-843E-D98F2140E787.jpeg
 

BFcaster

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Iowa City IA
I love the documentation. Bet it plays as well as it looks.
A person can have great parts for a partscaster, but taking the time and doing the measurements really make the difference, IMHO. Nice job!
 

telemnemonics

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Is that a one piece body?
And Guitar Mill sprayed it?
I was very surprised at how many one piece swamp ash nitro finished ready to ship fair priced bodies they had.
Kind of want to keep it a secret!

The GM body I just bought is a Strat in one piece swamp ash but no finish.
My balance woes drove me back to Strats for the longer horn which helps when ultra light.
Love a good Esquire too much though...
 

jchabalk

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Joined
Mar 11, 2009
Posts
565
Location
Northern California
Balance can be annoying but is secondary.
Curious what the imbalanced build had for body alone weight?

When i built the first one it wasn't something i was thinking about at all. I think the extreme imbalance was what turned me on to it being a concern. When i bought my first body i asked them for something "really light" (or some such thing).

When i got it it the finished weight (no parts etc) was 3#12oz (3.75#). The neck i ordered alongside it weighed in at 25.8oz (w/ tuners and nut) which is ~1oz heavier than the Fender neck i used for this build.

From what i can tell my necks are pretty normal weights (not too heavy or light) but the body is really light. Hang it on a strap and after hitting a few chords your shirt's riding up your back. Flip from cowboy to barre chords and you've gotta grab the neck as it falls.
 
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jchabalk

Tele-Holic
Joined
Mar 11, 2009
Posts
565
Location
Northern California
Is that a one piece body?
And Guitar Mill sprayed it?
I was very surprised at how many one piece swamp ash nitro finished ready to ship fair priced bodies they had.
Kind of want to keep it a secret!

The GM body I just bought is a Strat in one piece swamp ash but no finish.
My balance woes drove me back to Strats for the longer horn which helps when ultra light.
Love a good Esquire too much though...

Yup, it was a 1 piece alder body and it was finished. They do have a really good selection of unfinished bodies ready to go and i was going to go that route and work on finishing it myself. It so happens that my garage is open to the outside and it's pretty cold here lately so not the best place to work on finishing.

They also have some finished bodies (and necks) ready to go occasionally and this was one of those.
 

jchabalk

Tele-Holic
Joined
Mar 11, 2009
Posts
565
Location
Northern California
I love the documentation. Bet it plays as well as it looks.
A person can have great parts for a partscaster, but taking the time and doing the measurements really make the difference, IMHO. Nice job!

thank you! i'm glad i took the time to do it this way. I rushed through the assembly of my last one for no good reason, for this one i just decided i wouldn't be in a hurry at all and would try to do the best job i could (and not sweat it).
 

Elwood Telly

TDPRI Member
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Aug 25, 2022
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Finland - Europe
I put together a parts telecaster in 2019. It was my first build (assembly is probably the right term, right?) and while it turned out pretty good i never really liked it. I'd selected a bunch of nice parts and my body and neck were high-quality. It ended up being a pretty light build coming in at 6-3/4# when completed.

The big problem it had though is that i was pretty far out of balance; the body was really light and the neck was not. This resulted in bad neck dive which made it uncomfortable to play for any length of time. Even when seated the headstock always wanted to go to the ground. This wasn't something i'd anticipated when planning the guitar out - you just bolt everything together and "it works" right???

So i set out to build another tele back in December. I did a bunch of research here last year to make sure my approach for this guitar would solve the balance problem i had AND result in the guitar i wanted as i ended up not liking some of the choices i'd made the first time around. My plan was to reuse parts of my old one that i liked and change some of them out that didn't work well together.

Along the way i weighed every part to try and figure out how everything contributes to the weight of the final build.

The quick summary is that it turned out great and I'm really glad i did this. I ended up with a guitar that's well balanced on my lap or on a strap, that sounds amazing and plays easily. I spent a lot more time on assembly with this guitar making sure neck fit was as perfect as possible, screw holes were accurate, everything was straight and the lines were all clean. I'm really happy with it.

Here's a quick parts summary:
- BODY Guitar Mill Telecaster "ready to ship" w/ Butterscotch TruGrain finish: 68.8oz (body only)
- NECK Fender American Original 50s Telecaster Neck (Reverb): 24.7oz w/ Fender tuners and nut
- PARTS Mix of Callaham and Glendale parts, most of which i had although i went with a string-through bridge on this build.
- Don Mare Pickups: STelly Neck: 6.187ohm, SuperSport Bridge: 7.145ohm. I had these from several years ago and really loved how they sounded on my old build.

Here are the weights of parts i recorded in case this is useful to others - let me know if you have any questions
Guitar / ComponentWeight (oz)Comment
Finished Guitar Mill Body68.8
Copper Tape Shielding.2
Fender American Original 50s neck24.7incl: fender tuners + nut
Don Mare STelly (neck)2.7
Don Mare Super Sport (bridge)3.4
Glendale String Ferrules (6).5
Glendale top-loader double-cut bridge plate1.9
Brass saddles1
Glendale Neck plate2.2
Screws for neck plate -> body.5
Glendale Jack Cup.4
Switchcraft 1/4" jack.3
(2) Callaham Stainless strap buttons + screws.4
Callaham telecaster pickguard + 5 screws2.2lightly relic'd when i dropped it behind my desk
(2) 250k CTS pots1.1
(2) Glendale Dome knobs2.2


The completed neck weighed in at 24.7oz, the completed body weight is 88.3oz resulting in a total guitar weight of 116.1oz. There are ~3 oz. missing between the body weight and final total as i forgot to weigh the Glendale control plate and switch (and wire / solder ;) ).

The neck makes up 21% of the weight, and the body 79%, a ratio of 1:4.

On my previous out-of-balance build the neck was ~25% of the weight and the body ~75%, a ratio of 1:3.
So moving that relatively small bit of weight from the neck -> body changed the ratio in a significant way and resulted in a really well balanced guitar.

The other question that i'd been trying to find an answer to was how much weight gets added to the body when building a guitar (eg: if i buy a body that weighs N, how much is going to weigh when it's built out?) There's certainly some variance in which parts you end up choosing, but at least for this build the parts added 22.6oz to the finished body weight. In the end the body weight increased by ~33% - which is good to know when selecting a body.

A lot of this is probably pretty well known to the regular builders here, i was having a difficult time wrapping my head around it while trying to figure out my parts, especially since i don't do this much and i didn't want to end up with another guitar i didn't like ;)

Here are some pictures

Body detail right after i unpacked it. The "TruGrain" finish from Guitar Mill is very thin and they don't apply grain filler which you can see pretty clearly. I didn't set out looking for this finish but rather for a body in a particular weight range. That limited me to pre-made and pre-finished bodies (used or new) that had the weight published. This fit the bill on weight and color, and in person i really like it - so... score.

View attachment 1074734



Inserting the string ferrules. I have a top-load bridge on this guitar, and so now have 2 options for stringing. You can see where i smacked the body a bit near the low-E ferrule. The fit was great (there's no way they're falling out but i didn't need to be too aggressive with driving them in either.
View attachment 1074735




I removed that excess shielding tape prior to installing the bridge plate. Placing the neck pickup was the most difficult part of the whole thing. On my last build i got it close and it bothered me a bit every time i picked it up. I followed a few different methods for doing this that i found on the forum (bluetack to place and finishing nails to mark).
View attachment 1074736


I spent a bunch of time on alignment and fitting everything (and sanding) before drilling any holes. This made for a really clean final guitar.
View attachment 1074737

The color is a pretty light butterscotch in real life, but not this light. Apple Photos seems to be processing the image a bunch upon export.
View attachment 1074738


Here's the relic job i did on my (formerly) perfect Callaham pickguard. I was putting it up on shelf above my workbench while i was building and after the ~37th time of taking it down to check fit it fell behind the shelf and crashed on the floor. Many words were uttered. ;)

View attachment 1074739

I somehow managed to get the intonation perfect by just placing the saddles close to where i thought they'd need to be. Just got lucky. A minor action adjustment to get the radius right after finishing up was all that was needed.

View attachment 1074740


Another picture of the open grain
View attachment 1074741


Installing these jack cups make me nervous. I followed advice i found on the forum here this time: I opened the hole up with a bit of sanding so the cup fit ~1/3 of the way with hand pressure, then i waxed it and drove it home with a hammer, using a short screw driver inserted through the hole to protect the cup. It seated perfectly, definitely won't fall out, and the cup wasn't marred.
View attachment 1074743
Oh boy, I just love seeing these pics of beautiful grain... 😍 and with a classic setup otherwise. Another fine tribute to timeless masterpiece of design.
 
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Elwood Telly

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Posts
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Location
Finland - Europe
I'm big fan of oils when it comes to finishing Telly bodies. Well - they could seem little dull, but why kill good vibrations with thick layer of PU or whatever? I've been studying this thing (through classic try & error path) for several years with quite many bodies. Recently I finished my alder Telemaster/Jazzcaster-body first with tinted, but still pure tung-oil (color paste made of linseed oil with some natural ingredients). Final coats with Tru-Oil (which has evaporating solvents) to make some "satin gloss" at the top. Cabronita-style Tele seen in my "avatar" is one-piece swamp ash with some green powder stuff "solved" into tung-oil (its like four years old now). It turned out to be something else than expected, but I learnt at least two things:
- use solvent pastes instead of powder colors,
- swamp ash is very different from alder when it comes to absorption

Finally, classic three-point (+ extra) summary: patience, patience, patience (+ much of elbow grease).
There's some work with pickguard to be done... Originally it's bottom layer of piece I made from crappy 3-ply material... layers went apart and screws are from "bottom of jar". Still - I'm quite proud of my pickguard-design, I got idea from new Telecaster Noventa and other F-designs.

Nice "In-tune" bridge from Gotoh and Lundgren Vertigos (from Sweden).
 

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Deeve

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Dec 7, 2009
Posts
11,346
Location
Ballard
That thin-coat w/ visible grain looks great.
I like my avatar sortacaster, but it feels like a fekkin anvil, esp compared to the weight of op's build.
Good work, mate.
Peace - Deeve
 

Jazzerstang

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Nov 27, 2011
Posts
1,271
Location
Blackstone Valley, USA
My newest partscaster project in the making has the exact pencil marking as yours- DBE 22- also from Guitar Mill. I am finishing it in golden oak stain and minwax tung oil.

Here is another Guitar Mill bodied tung oil finished partscaster I made:

9A24CE15-A0C9-4FDF-8BEF-3534948269B1.jpeg
 
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Solaris moon

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Fort Waste
I am too making a Guitar Mill Tele project but with an actual Fender Telecaster neck. I am buying all new Fender parts to replace a Telecaster that I built a long time ago but that's a story for another thread. I haven't done anything with mine yet - it's still in bare wood form. I love the two piece book match they did with it. Maybe I'll show this when it's done. I am still deciding on a colour for it. I'm not 100% convinced that I want another blonde tele or natural colour with just a clear finish over it.
 
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