B&G Little Sister, kit build coming up

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by RodeoTex, Jan 13, 2020.

  1. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    I use slotted headstocks on all of my vintage inspired guitars - they really aren't that much harder to string that a paddle head and they just have so much more mojo. On an electric, however, even a hollow body it just wouldn't look right

    IMG_2010.JPG
     
  2. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Poster Extraordinaire

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    Big day today

    Kit arrived and other distractions:

    I was over by the ROTC wing of our high school yesterday and the Master Chief stopped me to ask if I'd be interested in a Fender amp, "it's the best there is." I told him I'd look at it if he brought it in today. Turned out to be a Mustang III v2. He wanted $70 for it so I figured that was a nobrainer.
    20200117_165344.jpg
    A few years ago he was going to learn guitar so he bought this and a robo-tuner Les Paul. I bet it doesn't have 1 hour of playing time on it.

    Anyway...
    The Sister kit came today too. Initial impressions are actually very good. The neck and body both have the pencil number 36 on them and it is a very nice fitted joint.

    The flame maple veneer looks nice and even. I've gotten a couple of kits with weird swirly wrinkles in the veneer but this one is really pretty nice.
    20200117_165518.jpg

    The P90s also look pretty good and both read 5. 14Kohm. The Lindy Fralins I got for my 1899 SG build were 7.2 and 8.2Kohm. Those pickups are a bit growly, so maybe these will be a little sweeter. That's be ok with me.
    20200117_170105.jpg

    The neck seems straight and the fretwork is fairly nice. They look like 6105s or similar. The ends are a bit rough but would certainly be playable as is.
    The fretboard is synthetic, as advertised, but looks natural enough. The nut is probably be one of those hollow plastic ones but I'll leave it if it works.
    The slanted part of the headstock where the strings angle down to the tuners is barely beveled at all and I'm guessing the strings would be dragging across the finished wood. That will be an easy enough fix with a 1/2" sanding sleeve I think.
    20200117_175632.jpg

    The tuners seem firm and are 15:1 if I counted right. The bridge and tailpiece both look ok from 3 paces. I'll keep them if they work.

    I already have to keep telling myself that I'm not going to upgrade anything, though I'm going to build and finish it (of course) the real reason in buying this kit was to develop a good set of working templates.
    Gonna be a rainy but fun weekend.
    Thanks for reading all this...
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2020
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  3. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    Silly question, actually two. How is the neck attached - it doesn't look like a screw on but not a set neck either? Second, what is the access to the truss rod? Do you have to pull the neck pup (or the neck itself)?

    And yes, the ramp into the slots is not nearly deep enough. It can be a bit problematic because strings want to hit the side of the slots. I use a big rat tailed rasp, then sand.
     
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  4. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Poster Extraordinaire

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    20200117_190823.jpg
    Here ya go Freeman. Sorry I didn't mention that.
    It's a set neck with lots of surface area to glue.
    The TR is that pinwheel/wagonwheel type. Whatever its called.
     
  5. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    OK, I assumed it was set and some how they brought the adjuster out the heel. And you might want to run up to the top of this page and look at the 12 string head - that will give you an idea of string paths
     
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  6. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Poster Extraordinaire

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    Yeah I was looking at that. I've got a couple of classical guitars to reference too.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2020
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  7. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

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    you SURE you don't wanna upgrade that nut? ;)

    Looks like a nice kit though; I definitely could work with that!

    How's the fit of that neck in the pocket? snuggy?
     
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  8. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Poster Extraordinaire

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    The kit, day two:

    I usually like to really study and ponder things before diving in.
    A couple of revelations. ONE: the F holes are actually pretty sloppy. Maybe I can clean them up a bit without changing their shape too much.
    20200118_100025.jpg
    20200118_100041.jpg

    And B,
    There is no rear control cavity access. (Thanks for getting that).
    20200118_100103.jpg
    I've read about the method of pulling the controls into place with thread and all that, but I think I'll just route in an opening. The real B&Gs have one so I'd think that's more accurate anyway.
     
  9. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    Pulling the components in thru the f-holes is a rite of passage for anyone working on hollow bodies. With your flat back it would be pretty easy to add a door, if the back was arched (or a pretty piece of flamed wood) you wouldn't want to do it. Having access to the back of the top (at least on the treble side) will also allow you to mask the f-hole on that side and pot holes.
     
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  10. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Poster Extraordinaire

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    Also day 2:
    The center seam is off center.
    Not by a lot, but if attempting a bookmatch why get it wrong?
    20200118_183638.jpg
     
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  11. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    Is that the centerline of the neck?
     
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  12. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Poster Extraordinaire

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    Not exactly that either Freeman.
     
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  13. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

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    dang, that would complicate things for me, I always use that seam help align the neck and locate the PU and bridge...
     
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  14. sugarinthegourd

    sugarinthegourd Tele-Meister

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    Not sure I can get over the backwards f holes. Just looks wrong to me.
     
  15. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

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    I can't ever remember which way is backwards...maybe that's lucky for me!
     
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  16. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    The only thing that matters is that the bridge mounting holes are centered on the neck center line (and the correct distance of course). I always use two straight edges on the sides of the neck to establish the center line on the body. The seam doesn't matter a hoot.
     
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  17. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Definitely a "best practice" recommendation for sure!
     
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  18. Allan Allan

    Allan Allan Tele-Meister

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    Thanks for pointing out these flaws, now I don't want one :lol:
     
  19. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Two straight edges, and a machinist's rule, glasses, a magnification visor and a freshly sharpened pencil will be helpful in determining a centerline on masking tape along both edges of the fretboard. You have to divide that measurement between the two straightedges, make a mark on a third piece of masking tape about where the centerline will be and repeat 3 or more times to get some dots in a row. Connect the dots and ta-da...one centerline. The only way to go.

    outer edges of neck.jpg



    strike a center line.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2020
  20. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Poster Extraordinaire

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    Well the build is back on I guess.
    One of the main reasons for buying this kit was to make templates for a future build.
    After noticing all the little discrepancies I really considered returning the whole thing.
    Of course by then I'd already made my templates, so that would make me kind of a d1€k to ask for my money back now.

    Anyway, I routed a rear access opening,
    filed down the ramp area leading to the tuners and sanded in the transition between the bank of the headstock and neck.
    For some reason the 'upload a file' button doesn't work today so I can't post any pictures.

    Happy Superbowl Sunday y'all.
     
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