moonshiner
Friend of Leo's
I played one of these in a shop today.. Wow.. they are heavy...
b-bender removal?
- Thread starter bluenoise
- Start date
Rhetro
TDPRI Member
Hello.
I'm a noob, and posted about getting rid of a mint American Standard Strat, to sell, or trade up for a Tele (It's about time). These are the Teles I tried out yesterday:
1) A roadworn mim. Loved it! Felt and played great! Easy enough to mod out the pickups
2) A 52 reissue. Sounded amazing, but I can't get past the frets. They're tiny!! Yes, I realize that this is what they did in 52 (or so I'm told). But I would eat through those frets in no time -needing a refret in the not so distant future.
3) A Nashville B bender!!!! OMG. I couldn't believe it! It sounded and played better than the other two. Now, if I only knew how to use the b bender mech. I was fiddling with it, and realized that it isn't rocket science. Dilligent practice with it will yield good results. It is heavy though!
Here are my questions to you B bender experts:
1) Is the mech pretty reliable? It looks sturdy enough, but are there known issues that I have to be aware of? I did notice the squeaking.
2) Are there instructional vids on using the b bender mech? Or am I on my own?
What a blast!!!
I'm a noob, and posted about getting rid of a mint American Standard Strat, to sell, or trade up for a Tele (It's about time). These are the Teles I tried out yesterday:
1) A roadworn mim. Loved it! Felt and played great! Easy enough to mod out the pickups
2) A 52 reissue. Sounded amazing, but I can't get past the frets. They're tiny!! Yes, I realize that this is what they did in 52 (or so I'm told). But I would eat through those frets in no time -needing a refret in the not so distant future.
3) A Nashville B bender!!!! OMG. I couldn't believe it! It sounded and played better than the other two. Now, if I only knew how to use the b bender mech. I was fiddling with it, and realized that it isn't rocket science. Dilligent practice with it will yield good results. It is heavy though!
Here are my questions to you B bender experts:
1) Is the mech pretty reliable? It looks sturdy enough, but are there known issues that I have to be aware of? I did notice the squeaking.
2) Are there instructional vids on using the b bender mech? Or am I on my own?
What a blast!!!
Chet Johnson
Tele-Afflicted
Yes, pretty reliable and there are lots of videos
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/b-bender-forum/232324-putting-nashville-bender-diet.html
Yes.... very reliable
Lubricate the tower and the bridge.
Replace leather pads on the upper and lower stops as required. (main reason for clunking)
Change spring as (if) needed for a stronger or lighter pull. Available at most well stocked hardware stores.
Those that want a longer throw can do this:
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/b-bender-forum/185104-extending-throw-p-g.html
Yes.... very reliable
Lubricate the tower and the bridge.
Replace leather pads on the upper and lower stops as required. (main reason for clunking)
Change spring as (if) needed for a stronger or lighter pull. Available at most well stocked hardware stores.
Those that want a longer throw can do this:
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/b-bender-forum/185104-extending-throw-p-g.html
Rhetro
TDPRI Member
Ok.
Went through some of these notes about the maintenance for the brass stops, and the o-ring (which I can't really see from the pics -I guess I'll know when I see it after opening it up).
So it's just the 11 small wood screws on the back plate -NOTHING ELSE! Got it.
Thanks, very imformative!
Went through some of these notes about the maintenance for the brass stops, and the o-ring (which I can't really see from the pics -I guess I'll know when I see it after opening it up).
So it's just the 11 small wood screws on the back plate -NOTHING ELSE! Got it.
Thanks, very imformative!
The pads are easy to see when you get the unit off and look sideways at it. Hard to photograph. Some Fenders have 1/8 inch leather some have rubber pads. Hipshot P/Gs have rubber pads and they fall off way to easily IMHO. The pads do get worn in the center from acting as stops over the time or they fall off. Then come the clunks and clicks. I replaced my Hipshot P/G rubber pads with 1/8 leather and glued them with contact cement over two years ago and they are still servicable. Very easy fix.... All will become clear when you remove the bender....
rizender
TDPRI Member
Thanks so much Dogbear I've already read the previous post about remove it,
it's was simply with right suggestion(only 11 smalls screws) however I remounted again to test thats everithing is all right.
Removing the unit will chop almost TWO pounds off the weight, contrary to what a previous poster said. The Fender chrome unit weighs 1.98 pounds. The Hipshot-manufactured add-on unit weighs 1.27 pounds.
WARNING - removing the unit WILL have an affect on your tone. You will be changing the weight, resonance and rigidity of the entire body structure. It will not sound like it does now. Personally I dislike the PG bender AND the Nashville Tele (with or without bender), but if you really, really like the tone learn to live with it - chances are you'll be reinstalling it to get "your sound" back!
WARNING - removing the unit WILL have an affect on your tone. You will be changing the weight, resonance and rigidity of the entire body structure. It will not sound like it does now. Personally I dislike the PG bender AND the Nashville Tele (with or without bender), but if you really, really like the tone learn to live with it - chances are you'll be reinstalling it to get "your sound" back!
I have a 1996 American Standard with P/G Bender and a 1998/99 Hot Rodded American Standard with P/G Bender. The Hot Rodded was my main guitar for about 11 years. I recently pulled it back out when I was testing pickups. Man, those pickups are great, especially the neck. I'm around 6'2" so I can handle the weight, but both of these are heavy Alder bodies. I've thought about getting a lighter Tele and moving the pickups to it, but who knows.
My biggest complaint with the bender is I can hear it sometimes pull the string slightly when I move around on stage. That's not acceptable to me if I want to get into the music. So I may have to bypass the bender. But like it was said, if you are used to the tone, leave the bender alone (and thread the B string normally, bypassing the bender entirely).
Honestly, I've been trying to upgrade the pickups on my guitar of the moment - my 1998 G&L Legact (Strat).
My biggest complaint with the bender is I can hear it sometimes pull the string slightly when I move around on stage. That's not acceptable to me if I want to get into the music. So I may have to bypass the bender. But like it was said, if you are used to the tone, leave the bender alone (and thread the B string normally, bypassing the bender entirely).
Honestly, I've been trying to upgrade the pickups on my guitar of the moment - my 1998 G&L Legact (Strat).
bender-freak
If I were to go to three benders, and I just might, as i have a higgen's peg bender just sitting here, I would put a half tone bend on the first string. E9th pedal steel is basically tuned to an E chord at the 4th fret, a D up to frets. G#,E,B, G#. Playing around with the D form chord, you'd pretty much have the first 3 pedals on a steel guitar.
If I were to go to three benders, and I just might, as i have a higgen's peg bender just sitting here, I would put a half tone bend on the first string. E9th pedal steel is basically tuned to an E chord at the 4th fret, a D up to frets. G#,E,B, G#. Playing around with the D form chord, you'd pretty much have the first 3 pedals on a steel guitar.
Tel E Twister
Tele-Meister
jmiles, bender-freak could have probably used this info, at least 4 years ago
(zombie thread)
Ram4 - if yours does not have adjustable spring tension (the Fender B-benders and Hipshot's version don't) you can change to a heavier spring to prevent inadvertent bends. Evans and some other high-end units have an adjuster for spring tension (not only great for stage use if you move around a lot, but makes it easier to use the bender in a sitting position (by loosening the tension).
Most units similar in construction to the Evans or Parsons-White can be modified by addition of an adjuster.
Most units similar in construction to the Evans or Parsons-White can be modified by addition of an adjuster.
eddiewagner
Poster Extraordinaire
This is good information. iBeacon closed to remove the machine cause the guitarist so heavy. Btw.: i put Nocaster pups in mine. Great, great sound.
Televox1967
TDPRI Member
Televox1967
TDPRI Member
*Can't* use a B only???
You might be surprised. I found the double bender to be wasted mechanics. Thew whole reason the original was on the B was trial and error - Clarence found he could bend the G string just fine manually in harmony with other strings or move around the neck while bending, but B string bends were limited due to the location of the E string near the edge of the fretboard and bends hitting the G and even the D string, sometimes needed in descending licks.
i never used the G string bender after a few months - end up trading the guitar away and have played nothing but B benders since (sometimes in harmony with Keith tuners).
T Prior
Poster Extraordinaire
For me its a toss up, B alone or a double. But I prefer B alone. I do not own a double but I do own B guitars and a G guitar. I did own a double.
The issue for me is not that they both can't be USED on the same guitar, of course they can. The issue for me was that I found myself studying TWO at the same time rather than advancing the B or G alone. IF we can do that with efficiency then go yee forward. But if we find ourselves splitting time with creativity, then that can become a stumbling block.
I am a B puller but I like the G puller as well. Most of my time is spent creating and studying interval's and redundant positions on the B guitar which places the B string in a different position in the interval or in the triad. This is the power of the B pull/release , as it would also be with the G puller, but its a different study.
I do pick up the G guitar often and I agree that there is a ton of creativity on that guitar , but its a different study. maybe one day down the road I'll go back to a double, but its not today.
My goal is to become as efficient as I can on the B guitar , placing fret board intervals and redundant triads into total auto pilot. I don't desire being that player who "pulls off " the same exact phrases every song. Well, at least thats the goal ! Its a study and it may take a long time.
In the Pedal Steel world it would be like learning E9th and C6th at the same time , we can learn a little bit on each but master neither !
The issue for me is not that they both can't be USED on the same guitar, of course they can. The issue for me was that I found myself studying TWO at the same time rather than advancing the B or G alone. IF we can do that with efficiency then go yee forward. But if we find ourselves splitting time with creativity, then that can become a stumbling block.
I am a B puller but I like the G puller as well. Most of my time is spent creating and studying interval's and redundant positions on the B guitar which places the B string in a different position in the interval or in the triad. This is the power of the B pull/release , as it would also be with the G puller, but its a different study.
I do pick up the G guitar often and I agree that there is a ton of creativity on that guitar , but its a different study. maybe one day down the road I'll go back to a double, but its not today.
My goal is to become as efficient as I can on the B guitar , placing fret board intervals and redundant triads into total auto pilot. I don't desire being that player who "pulls off " the same exact phrases every song. Well, at least thats the goal ! Its a study and it may take a long time.
In the Pedal Steel world it would be like learning E9th and C6th at the same time , we can learn a little bit on each but master neither !
